The story
David Wagger directs the kitchen at Kaiserhof in Ellmau, guiding a team focused on refined Alpine cuisine. He works closely with sous-chef Jakob Fitz to translate regional produce into precise plates. This dedication has secured three Gault Millau toques and a 15.5 point rating for the property. Dishes like marinated sea bass with black caviar and a crisp watercress foam demonstrate that careful execution matters more than heavy seasoning.
The culinary program rotates regularly, allowing the kitchen to highlight whatever arrives fresh from the surrounding valleys. An open lasagna layered with young roe deer hash sits beside a rich crème fraîche infused with fir tips. Veal fillet crépinette arrives with a reduced calf jus and airy potato dumpling pastry that holds its shape perfectly. Guests typically finish the meal with elderflower berries served over buttermilk and ripe pear, followed by aged Livarot cheese.
The Kulinarium restaurant occupies a bright space remodeled in 2020, designed to frame the Wilder Kaiser and Kitzbüheler Alps through large windows. Günter and Bianca Lampert built their reputation on consistent warmth, a philosophy that earned Austria’s Hotel of the Year award in 2022. Maître Karl Rotheneder manages the floor with steady attention to pacing and wine pairings. The Falstaff guide awarded three forks here, noting how the elegant setting complements the Alpine cuisine without overwhelming it.
Recognition
Ambience
Location