The story
At Rau in Grossraming, chef Klemens Gold directs an Austrian nature-based cuisine that grew from his family’s former inn. He and his wife rebuilt the space around a vast glass kitchen that lets diners watch every preparation. His approach treats time as a core ingredient, mapping menus to microseasons rather than standard monthly rotations. This method earned him 17.5 points from Gault & Millau for 2026, recognizing how carefully he structures each transition between courses.
This nature-based cuisine follows a ten-season framework that shifts ingredients as textures change in the local landscape. February brings silver scorpionfish paired with house-made ponzu and sea algae, while summer swaps it for wild-caught prawns. A signature course presents squab inside a sealed paper envelope, preserving its juices until the guest opens it. Even fungi get their moment, as Silver Ear mushrooms become the base for a dessert layered with orange juice, Tathiti vanilla, silken tofu, and crushed cedar nuts.
Dining halls feature heavy oak tables arranged beneath exposed timber, creating a grounded setting for the precise service led by maitre Paul Piaty. The beverage program runs alongside the cooking philosophy rather than serving as a backdrop. Wines mature in barrels crafted by cooperage Stockinger, selected specifically to continue the flavor profile of each course instead of merely accompanying it. Guests can also find herbal toasts and green tea preparations that anchor the meal before the first savory item arrives.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
That he can cook, Klemens Gold has already proven in the past. Back then he went by a different name and worked in the highly acclaimed "The Omnia" in the Swiss elite resort of Zermatt. Then he was drawn back to the Pechgraben. There, in Großraming, he and his wife transformed his parents' pub into a culinary hotspot that impresses in many ways. Outside, dense forest; inside, abundant oak, along with massive tables and one of the largest open kitchens in the country. The Golds masterfully navigate this glass cabin. The menu is called "The 10 Seasons" and varies according to the season. Some dishes have – rightfully so – a permanent place on the menu. The star of the course "The Sea" is a Norway lobster in February, a wild-caught prawn in summer, both accompanied by delicious homemade ponzu and seaweed. The squab actually arrives in an envelope. Before that, Gold proves that he can also work beautifully with mushrooms. Tremello, the silver ear fungus, may not be a visual beauty among fungi, but it has its own distinct flavor and texture. Gold creates a dessert from it, featuring orange juice, Tahiti vanilla, silken tofu, dried fruit, and pine nuts. Address Pechgraben 23 4463 Großraming Austria Contact 0664 1246986 office@im-rau.com https://www.im-rau.com/ Opening Hours Wed–Fri 13:30–24:00, Sat 12:00–24:00 Team Klemens Gold Chef Paul Piaty Maître d'
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