The story
Der Holzpoldl in Lichtenberg grounds its approach to Austrian cuisine in a restored 1898 farmstead managed by Manuel Grabner and Claudia Stiglitz. They reopened the property in June 2017, deliberately swapping rigid tasting menus for a guest-curated course sequence. This flexible framework recently secured a 17-point assessment from Gault&Millau, validating their commitment to honest preparation. Sunday evenings pivot to traditional pub fare while weekdays focus on seasonal innovation.
The culinary route highlights caramelized cabbage noodles paired with baked milk calf liver and a crisp potato salad. Other options include marinated mackerel fillet served with fresh chive and popped jasmine rice, or a roasted lamb loin accompanied by tomato jam. These dishes anchor contemporary regional cuisine in familiar comfort while keeping techniques precise. A glass of pét-nat often starts the evening before guests navigate the extensive wine list.
The renovated estate preserves its agricultural heritage while introducing the Genusszimmer, Gourmetstube, and a dedicated Weinkammer for quieter gatherings. Wooden beams and original structural elements ground the interiors, leaving room for a sunlit terrace and a shaded garden area. The four-person family manages daily operations, which keeps service attentive without feeling staged. Guests frequently linger in the outdoor space during warmer months before returning inside for dessert courses like blueberry ice cream with sour cherries.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
Beans with sausage, accompanied by a glass of Pét Nat: this is what a welcome in Lichtenberg can look like. Once the initial appetite has been satisfied, the agony of choice begins. Manuel Grabner does not offer his guests a fixed menu; rather, they assemble their own course sequences. The culinary tightrope walk between a country inn and a gourmet restaurant, pursued here according to its own definition, offers an interesting cross-section. One can choose caramelized cabbage fleckerl and baked milk veal liver with potato salad, or perhaps prefer soured mackerel fillet with chives and popped jasmine rice, or alternatively enjoy rack of lamb with tomato jam. The dessert selection includes, among other things, blueberry ice cream with sour cherries and Crêpes Suzette. Address: Am Holzpoldlgut 2, 4040 Lichtenberg, Austria Contact: 07239 62 25 | holzpoldl@manuelgrabner.at | https://www.manuelgrabner.at/ Opening Hours: Wed & Thu 17:00–23:00, Fri 17:00–23:00, Sat 11:30–15:00 & 18:00–23:00, Sun 11:30–15:00 Team: Manuel Grabner, Chef
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