The story
In the Dansaert area of Brussels, Kline presents itself as a "watering hole for lovers of real food and real people." The restaurant combines a see-through kitchen with a cut-through vibe, inviting guests to share an ingredients-focused style of cooking that is both locally rooted and globally inspired.
The kitchen operates with a "brutalist" ethos, described as a cornucopia of flavour and soul. While simplicity is a starting point, the team believes it doesn't fully honour the reach of their work. Their process begins with locally sourced ingredients from around Brussels, en route to your plate. They aim for local sourcing as much as possible, acknowledging that some things, like lemons, simply don't grow there yet. This commitment extends to North Sea fish, sourced from right around the corner, and a broader goal to operate without waste as allies of the sustainable revolution.
The team describes itself as "Wild Childs at heart," scavenging for berries in concrete jungles and treating organic not as a label but as a verb. Their dynamic chef wizards are constantly inspired by their surroundings, allowing the menu to move quickly and adjust to ever-occurring inspiration. The result is a seasonal, modern cuisine that changes frequently, driven by what is available and what sparks creativity.
This approach has earned Kline a Bib Gourmand from Michelin, recognising its good quality, good value cooking. The restaurant is open from Tuesday evening to Saturday night, with last service at 21:30. Walk-ins are welcome, but reservations are recommended.
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good quality, good value cooking
Over on Rue de Flandre, the brutalist concrete/metal structure that is the Teddy Picker hotel (dreamt up by Tim Siaens with help from architect Johan Cool and LOW architect studio) certainly catches the eye. Inside? A handful of hotel rooms and Kline, a chic and tasteful restaurant – run by Nico Corbesier (ex-Les Éleveurs in Hal), a terroir-ist with a hankering for full-fledged flavors, who proves that the Flemish are hell bent on reinventing the downtown experience ( Nightshop , Henri ). Take the night we went, as we devoured beetroot chutney paired with pumpkin seed crackers; Atlantic redfish and rhubarb ceviche; radical sea eel served with a Berliner Wine potato mousseline; delicious white asparagus with smoked egg yolk; or even a daring cream puff packed with praline ice cream and paired with miso-glazed pears. Everywhere you look, spices from elsewhere remind you that this is where it’s at, for a locally-sourced journey to faraway lands. // Toni Negroni
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