The story
At Nova in Sint-Niklaas, the kitchen is the heart of the room. Guests take a seat at the chef's table or a nearby table, placed almost literally inside the open central kitchen. From there, you see every dish come together. You feel the heat and see the flames of the wood-fired BBQ. The team makes your acquaintance, and from that moment, you are part of the whole.
This is an "eigenwijs" restaurant—stubborn in the best sense, believing things can and should be done differently. The team works with what grows nearby, in close collaboration with farmers they know personally. They seek out "eigenzinnige boeren" (headstrong farmers) and driven producers, preferably from their own region or as close as possible. They want to know where it comes from, how it is grown or raised, and by whom. This controlled chain, from field to plate, is essential to guarantee the complexity and layered depth of their cuisine.
The menu is a Carte Blanche, always in motion, always surprising. Priced at €110 for dinner and €75 for the Friday lunch, it is a gastronomic adventure that changes daily, inspired by the producers' offerings. The cooking is seasonal and built around the BBQ, balancing flavors with creativity and without unnecessary ornamentation. In July and August, guests can also enjoy an à la carte menu.
Nova operates on the basis of its own Manifesto of Fine Food (MAFF), an invitation for other chefs to be gastronomic "dissidents"—to dare to think and act differently, with respect and a focus on exceptional ingredients straight from the source. This philosophy, combined with the immersive, fire-lit dining experience, earned the restaurant a Michelin Recommended distinction.
Recognition
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While the winter fun fair floods Grote Markt in Sint-Niklaas with its flashing neon and the greasy aroma of churros, just a can smash away on Collegestraat sits Nova. At carefully timed seatings, Tineke Maerevoet warmly welcomes a maximum of 18 guests into this slim, serene space of pale wood and creamy neutrals, all here for the radical, eco-locavore cuisine of her self-taught husband, Guy de Jonghe, who’s busy behind the counter tending to a crackling wood fire. Over the five-course tasting menu, the chef rolls out deeply flavorful, sauce-forward creations: the inevitable amuse-bouche kicks things off (that evening, seared scallops with creamed celeriac and clementine); followed by stunning grilled monkfish steak nestled in shrimp bisque with spinach and leek ravioli; marinated mackerel, seared and ringed with a coulis of last summer’s fermented tomatoes, watercress jus and house kimchi; then seasonal game in the form of venison, paired with stuffed Savoy cabbage and a sublimely meaty jus… climaxing with a tiramisu extravaganza that (almost) stole the show. Want to push things further? Grilled oysters with beurre blanc or a signature langoustine dish can be added for a supplement. · Jean-Eude d’Aye-Quiry
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