The story
In Varaždin, just steps from the old town ramparts, Bedem lives up to its name – “fortress” in Croatian. The setting is unmistakable: the terrace offers a direct view of the ancient city walls, grounding every meal in a sense of place. Inside, the kitchen is commanded by two chefs who have shaped the city’s gastronomic identity.
Anđelko Levanić and Zlatko Novak are the most decorated culinary team in Varaždin and, by their own account, in Croatia. Both have held the title of national champion in cooking and have collected medals from the Culinary Olympics and the World Culinary Cup. Where Anđelko dives deep into local recipes and ingredients, Zlatko brings an artist’s eye and a fascination with modern techniques like molecular gastronomy. Together, they built Bedem as a stage for what they call “highly authorial cuisine” – cooking that honours the past while embracing the new.
The dishes begin with the region’s pantry: Zagorje turkey, pumpkin seed oil, fresh vegetables, wild game. A degustation menu showcases their range – from a beef carpaccio with pine needle ash to a creamy pumpkin cappuccino soup, duck breast in aceto balsamico, and lamb rack in a crust of pumpkin seeds. Wine pairing is available. À la carte options span cold starters like smoked venison on Grabancijaš cheese, warm starters such as štrukli filled with pheasant, and main courses including sous-vide venison with forest fruit sauce or sea bass baked in a pastry coat (“Brancin à la Zlatko”). Vegetarian and vegan choices appear throughout.
Michelin has listed Bedem among its recommended restaurants for years, a recognition the team wears with quiet pride. It matches the restaurant’s own ambition: to transform everyday local cooking into something worth travelling for. In Varaždin, Bedem is that destination – a place where the food, the view, and the hands behind it all tell the same story.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
In the heart of Varaždin, not far from the historic fortress, lies a restaurant where rich local tradition meets a modern culinary approach, thanks to two chefs – Anđelko Levanić and Zlatko Novak. Their dishes always feature native ingredients, such as pumpkin or cabbage, which perfectly complement meat delicacies made from duck, venison, lamb, veal, and pork. Beyond meat, the menu also offers plenty of vegetarian and vegan dishes. For starters, we recommend smoked sausage and venison ham served with homemade cheese grabancijaš, perfectly seasoned with local pumpkin seed oil. Their goose liver in puff pastry, served with a seasonal mushroom sauce, is also excellent. As the main course, try the duck breast with a balsamic vinegar and honey-based sauce – perfectly cooked and beautifully paired with smoked cheese and sweet muscat risotto. Instead of a sweet dessert, this hearty meal can end with štrukli (traditional dough with filling), though they require a bit of a wait since they are handmade. The wine list is extensive, mainly featuring wines from northern Croatian vineyards and Istria (with a few international selections). The interior is comfortable and spacious, complemented by an elegant winter garden and a summer terrace. Reservations at Bedem are highly recommended, as it is one of Varaždin’s most sought-after restaurants due to its unique dishes and good value for money.
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