The story
In the quiet village of Colombey-les-Deux-Églises, Hostellerie la Montagne offers a dining experience that is both rooted in the local land and shaped by a world of influences. Chef Jean-Baptiste Natali, who earned his first Michelin star at just 27, describes himself as a “storyteller of tastes,” a title that perfectly captures his approach to modern cuisine.
Natali’s path to the stove was unconventional. As a child, he foraged in the surrounding woods of the Dhuits, Plachet, and Blinfey, discovering wild hyacinths, Solomon’s seal, wild asparagus, and bear garlic. These early encounters with wild herbs and flavors sparked a vocation that would take him across the globe—from the Palme d’Or at the Hôtel Martinez in Cannes to Daniel Boulud in New York, La Mamounia in Marrakech, and kitchens in Thailand, Vietnam, and China. This international palette enriches his cooking without ever losing sight of its terroir origins.
The restaurant itself occupies three spacious, wood-paneled dining rooms named after the wine regions they evoke: Bourgogne, Champagne, and Toscane. Large windows open onto the park, letting in soft, caressing light. The white tablecloths are simple and elegant, setting the stage for the beautifully crafted earthenware plates that carry Natali’s inventive dishes. The maître d’hôtel and sommelier, Chan, brings professionalism and warmth to the service, noting that “the best moment for a gourmet is when he is looking at the menu.”
This Michelin One Star recognition, awarded consistently since 2002, is woven into the fabric of the house. The menu is a conversation between the chef’s roots and his travels, a modern cuisine that is as much about the wild garlic from the local woods as it is about the turbot delivered fresh from Roscoff each week. For those seeking a more casual experience, the on-site bistro, La Table du Général, offers a simpler menu in the same welcoming spirit.
Hostellerie la Montagne is a place where the chef’s personal story, the bounty of the Champagne region, and a refined sense of hospitality come together in a meal that feels both intimate and worldly.
Recognition
Ambience
Location