The story
L’Union in Essoyes grounds its French bistro cuisine in a straightforward kitchen led by Antoine Houdré. He relocated from Troyes after years running wine programs at Parisian natural wine bistros, eventually bringing sous chef Théophile Duc on board. Their operation prioritizes seasonal ingredients over complex presentations. The daily menu rotates according to local harvests and supplier availability.
Guests typically begin with the Bobosse pâté en croûte served alongside a chilled glass of sparkling wine. Main courses feature techniques that highlight texture and brightness, such as razor clams sautéed and finished with vermouth or monkfish coated in panko and paired with bright green broccoli. Sweet endings lean playful, combining strawberries, cherry tomatoes, and white chocolate mousse into a single plate. Vegetarian options appear regularly too, reflecting a flexible approach to bistro cooking.
The dining room centers around a compact zinc bar backed by burgundy wood panels and scattered vintage prints. Diners seeking sunlight move to the outdoor terrace, which sits directly beneath the shade of the neighboring parish church. This quiet village setting reflects the straightforward philosophy behind their regional cuisine. The Le Fooding recognition arrived after reviewers noted how the unpretentious space lets the kitchen speak for itself.
Recognition
Location
Instagram