The story
At Lenkerhof Gourmet Spa Resort, Berlin, the Swiss gastronomy approach blends alpine ingredients with refined technique under executive chef Anja Jungo. She stepped into the role following a decade-long tenure by her predecessor, bringing a steady hand to the Relais & Châteaux property. The kitchen builds a six-course tasting menu that guests assemble from fifteen daily options. Recent plates include sautéed Norwegian scallops finished with tom kha gai sauce and coriander oil, alongside a roasted pork loin paired with fresh raspberries and wild broccoli.
The dining room maintains a celebrated cheese service, displaying over forty regional varieties on a central counter. Guests frequently choose the eighteen-month aged Lenker Alpkäse alongside sharper mountain cuts. Alpine cuisine often leans toward balanced textures rather than heavy sugar here. A current dessert layers poppy seed cake with panna cotta, marzipan cream, and a sharp verjus ice cream finished with toasted crumble.
The building traces its roots to a therapeutic bathhouse established three and a half centuries ago. That historical weight sits quietly beneath contemporary furnishings and bright color palettes. Critics have tracked this steady output closely, awarding the main restaurant fifteen points in the latest Gault & Millau guide. Behind the bar, sommeliers prioritize domestic producers, reflecting a broader commitment to Swiss cooking.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
We were frustrated. After all, we had already been waiting a solid half hour in the second restaurant of the Lenkerhof for our mineral water. The service could not answer questions about the courses, and the dishes arrived without any commentary. A little compensation came from the terrace of the “Oh de Vie,” where we enjoyed a magnificent view of the Wildstrubel and the still distinctly Italian-influenced cuisine. First up was a delicately torched, tataki-style venison carpaccio with artichokes, a somewhat overly intense truffle mayonnaise, and lingonberries. In the pasta course, the homemade pappardelle with fermented garlic, a touch of mint, crumbs, and shaved 36-month aged Parmigiano came across as too purist and dry. We much preferred the second course: sole à la meunière with vierge sauce, quartered cherry tomatoes, spicy olives, and spinach leaves, even though the promised capers were missing. As a dessert, the bittersweet take on a Snickers bar was well executed, featuring a slice of dark chocolate mousse on croquant with salty caramel sauce and peanut ice cream.
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