The story
Vecchia Osteria Seseglio began as a farmstead on the Swiss-Italian border, in the agricultural zone of Seseglio just minutes from Chiasso. Two original fireplaces, one dated 1861 and another 1868, still stand inside the building—reminders of a time when the property was divided between a rustic hostelry and a stable with courtyard. Lovingly restored in 2001, the osteria now blends the rough stone and wood of its colonial past with an elegant, discreet atmosphere.
Local lore tells of Erminio Fontana, the osteria’s beloved early owner, who served his celebrated saffron risotto with chicken livers, red wine, Parmesan and Emmental to customs officers and families alike. That same spirit of generous, rooted cooking continues today.
Born in 1963 in the province of Como, Chef Ambrogio Stefanetti trained as both a chef and sommelier before taking over Vecchia Osteria Seseglio in 2007. Two mentors shaped his style: Rocco Montereale deepened his understanding of wine pairing, and Martin Dalsass, chef of the Michelin-starred Sant’Abbondio, sharpened his culinary technique. In 2010, Gault Millau named him “Ticino Cook of the Year” with a score of 15/20—a recognition that, together with a Michelin Recommended award, confirms his standing.
Stefanetti describes his kitchen as classic Mediterranean in approach, with a strong foundation in Lombardian tradition and the freedom to reinterpret. He favours cooking large cuts of meat, believing this allows the qualities of the meat to emerge while also making use of the whole animal. His maître d’ carves portions directly at the table, restoring a sense of theatre and respect for ingredients.
The menu changes with the seasons, drawing on prime raw materials. Guests can choose from à la carte dishes, a tasting menu, or a business lunch (four courses at CHF 52). A daily “Patto con l’Oste” offers the chef’s selection paired with a glass of wine from the cellar. Specialities include traditional Lombardy-Ticino dishes, such as the risotto that made the osteria famous, updated with finesse.
The dining rooms merge rustic textures with refined comfort. Works by contemporary Ticino artists rotate through the space; currently, Aoi Huber Kono’s delicate modern pieces hang on the walls. Outside, a terrace and garden with a play area provide an airy alternative in fine weather. Two guest rooms are available for those who wish to extend their stay.
Vecchia Osteria Seseglio is a place where history, seasonality and quiet elegance meet—a genuine expression of Italian and Lombardian country cooking, recognized by Michelin for its consistency and charm.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
You shouldn't dine alone at the «Vecchia Osteria». The fantastic signature dish that delighted General Guisan many, many years ago is only available for parties of two or more: «Risotto dell’Erminio, storico di Seseglio» with saffron, mushrooms, chicken liver, and Merlot reduction. The spring risotto 2.0 is also meant for two: snails (!), wild garlic pesto. Fortunately, we didn't go hungry because of this: the Spaghettoni Paolo Petrilli were a flawless alternative. It came with eel, eel butter, and lemon zest, but in well-measured amounts: the thick organic pasta from Gragnano, cooked perfectly al dente, remained the star of the plate. Also worth ordering: the homemade nettle gnocchetti with morels and Aquila saffron from the Abruzzo region. The staff under owner Ambrogio Stefanetti does a great job. This was evident during the «Saluto della cucina»: focaccia, excitingly good thanks to smoked duck breast; cima di rapa, a pleasant surprise thanks to burrata and fresh chili peppers. The most ambitious starters: Japanese scallops with herbs and crustacean sauce, a one-hour egg (from the neighbor) with the first green asparagus, Parmigiano, and crostini. The first morels of the season have arrived at the «Osteria», so they are served as a standard side dish that day. Served alongside the tagliata of Swiss veal. And alongside the juicy «galletto» with celery and mashed potatoes. The galletto turns out to be half a guinea fowl, which isn't exactly how it's listed on the menu. We missed the second leg, but we appreciated the perfect, crispy-yet-juicy preparation and the delicate morel sauce. For dessert, the very first strawberries, traditionally sourced from Basilicata, served with hot chocolate or crème double. Pleasant garden, excellent wine list.
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