50 Top Italy — Grandi Ristoranti 26
Are delicacy and care matters of gender? Probably not, but while tasting the dishes of Antonia Klugmann, certainly one of the most gifted and thoughtful chefs of recent years, and wandering through the rooms of this countryside farmhouse, set in a borderland that serves as a crossroads of cultures, surrounded by fragrances, the crackle of the fire, and the warmth of hospitality, you sense a meticulous care for guests that reveals itself in every detail. This sensitivity enables her to present bold and challenging selections. Seasonality, respect for ingredients, mindfulness against waste, terroir, and memory are all vividly present in the stunning starter, Pane ammollato e arrostito: a straightforward name for a true masterpiece that captivates you from the very first bite and transports you back to childhood, to your mother’s pancotto, which could transform day-old bread into an act of love. A restrained tenderness gives way to a perfect crispness, achieved using a cast-iron skillet. The same applies to the clementine and rosemary capellini, where bitterness, sweetness, textures, and aromatic notes blend into a symphony. Her cuisine is driven by a clear, powerful vision, marked by precise portioning, balanced flavors, even those that appear extreme, and impeccable timing. Guests can choose between two tasting menus: seven or ten courses. The title of the signature menu, Life in Motion, is truly a tribute to vitality, culinary mastery, and the warm charm of both the chef and her team. The service flows at a pace that keeps things engaging, complemented by a compelling wine list deeply rooted in the local terroir. It is expertly curated by the highly skilled sommelier Roberto Stella, who attentively reads each guest, anticipates their preferences, and enthusiastically shares insights while encouraging a playful exploration of flavors.