Kyoboshi

The story

Kyoboshi: Three-Generation Tempura Artistry in Kyoto's Gion District

A Tempura Legacy in the Heart of Gion

On a quiet street just off Hanami-koji in Kyoto's historic Gion district, Tempura Kyoboshi has been quietly perfecting its craft since 1947. The restaurant’s name is a meaningful fusion of the characters for “Kyoto” and “star,” chosen by the founder—the grandfather of current chef Toshinori Sakakibara. The third-generation chef carries forward a family tradition that has earned the restaurant a Michelin star for nine consecutive years since the Kyoto edition began.

The experience is intimate from the start. A simple, elegant counter seats guests directly in front of the chef, who works alongside his wife. The setting is warm and unhurried, a reflection of the restaurant’s philosophy of running a traditional eatery at the center of old Kyoto culture.

Tempura as Art and Precision

The meal at Kyoboshi is strictly tempura from start to finish. Each guest receives a beautiful lacquer tray with three condiments and a sheet of tenshi paper where each piece is gently set. Unlike many Tokyo-style tempura restaurants, Kyoboshi serves tempura in the Kyoto-style: with salt, lemon, and grated daikon radish to cleanse the palate between courses.

The batter is a secret family recipe that uses no egg. The chef listens to the sounds of the oil to determine the exact cooking time for each ingredient. The result is a parade of seasonal ingredients transformed into edible art—carrots cut into perfect coils, green beans stacked into tiny towers, and halfbeak braided into delicate threads. The meal is surprisingly light, thanks to the quality of the oil, batter, and salt, which are sourced from the same suppliers his grandfather used.

Standout dishes include the classic shrimp tempura, fried to a plump perfection, and tilefish with crunchy scales that contrast with the soft meat. A particularly inventive touch is the sweet potato, glazed in brandy and sugar before frying—a nod to marron glacé that has become a favorite among international guests. The meal ends with a satisfying tencha bowl: hot tea poured over tempura on rice.

Chef Toshinori Sakakibara

Born in Tokyo, Sakakibara grew up watching his father run the restaurant. After high school, he apprenticed at an established Japanese restaurant in Hyogo prefecture before returning to Kyoboshi to help his ailing father. At age 22, he moved the restaurant from Ginza back to Gion in Kyoto, where his mother and later his wife helped him attend to guests.

“Everyday, I try to look for new ideas,” he says. “How can I make guests happy with tempura, is what I ask myself all the time.” He personally selects all ingredients, making daily visits to Kyoto’s central and Nishiki markets for the freshest seasonal produce. He also curates a selection of sakes and light wines that pair well with tempura.

With nine consecutive Michelin stars, Sakakibara remains ambitious. “As third generation, I strive to keep up Kyoboshi’s good name and quality,” he says. “Eventually, I would love for my son to take over. But he’s only 3 so who knows.”