Merlet

High quality cooking

On the edge of the Schoorl dunes, Restaurant Merlet enjoys a special location. Housed in a classic building, the modern interior with attention to detail creates a pleasant setting. Three impressive amuse-bouches that each...

For over forty years, the hotel, restaurant, and grand café Merlet have been situated on the edge of the dunes in the rustic village of Schoorl. Carla and Martin van Bourgonje are the owners, and since 2024, chef Marco Helsloot has been leading his fine-dining kitchen, where classical French cuisine is prepared with Eastern influences. The dining room is a feast for the eyes, spacious and modernly furnished with beautiful art pieces scattered throughout. We step into the sleek dining room, decorated with art and featuring an open kitchen. The amuse-bouches set the tone right away: shrimp and cockles from the Wadden Sea, along with smoked eel from the IJsselmeer, leave us wanting more. A weekly rotating multi-course menu is offered alongside à la carte options. Tartare of bluefin tuna loin is served alongside goose liver, seaweed, and a vinaigrette made from passion fruit, cilantro, and salty sea vegetables. Served separately in a nori boat is a tartare of o-toro. The Chablis 2023 from Earl Domaine d'Elise, selected by maître-sommelier Rein Denneman, pairs well with the richness of the dish, though the portions of tuna and goose liver are rather modest. Helsloot goes all out with the Texel Lamb: two slices of tender medium-rare roasted loin, accompanied by slices of lamb tongue and a piece of braised lamb neck, served with Oppendoezer Ronde, salty sea vegetables, and a goat yogurt-based vinaigrette. Hostess Madée Zwart pours the house jus and Wadden oyster foam over it at the table. In the glass, a mild Foradori 2022 from Mezzolombardo in the Dolomites. This Italian farmhouse wine pairs beautifully with the dish, as its light profile accentuates the lamb without overpowering it. We will gladly return! Rises to 33.

Marco Helsloot has been the new chef de cuisine since February 2024. Together with his sous chef Bas Varga and the team, he continues the high-quality cuisine of restaurant Merlet, part of hotel Merlet. This charming establishment by Carla and Martin van Bourgonje is situated along the extensive Schoorl dune area. In the atmospheric and chic dining room, the pedestal with a display case housing a large artificial flower arrangement serves as a true eye-catcher. Both outside guests and hotel guests can choose from a weekly rotating multi-course menu, which is also available in a vegetarian version, alongside extensive à la carte options. Marco cooks with premium ingredients such as lobster, Wagyu beef, roe deer, and turbot. Maître sommelier Rein Denneman and his crew ensure that guests lack nothing. The starters set the tone right away. Hand-peeled Wadden sea prawns with red curry bisque, mango, coriander, and pepper, and pie tee (small cups of thin, crispy pastry dough) filled with North Sea crab and Singapore chili sauce are delightful ways to begin. Plancha-grilled langoustines with bacon and tandoori bisque, accompanied by a fresh salad of apple, celery, smoked almonds, and goat cheese ice cream, follow. The presentation is visually stunning. The same applies to the cured sea bass from Schoorl aan Zee, served with raw tartare, passion fruit, kombu, seaweed, and coriander cream—a marvel of culinary ingenuity. For the main course, the eggplant mille-feuille with confit lemon, tomato, basil, and soy particularly delights. What a pure, intense flavor, elevated even further by combining it with a concentrated tomato mousse and an eggplant cream, all surrounded by a jus made from salted lemon. This is vegetarian indulgence at the highest level. In the glass, a red Les Vignes du Fresche, Cabernet Franc 2022. A wine with body, yet very approachable and soft. Merlet ranks 34th this year in the Top 100 of this guide.

The view over the vast Schoorl dune area is stunning. Over the years, owners Carla and Martin van Bourgonje have created a culinary palace. Executive chef Jonathan van Zandbergen is the driving force behind the gastronomic standard that draws numerous guests from both home and abroad. His cooking style is rooted in French cuisine with contemporary influences, yielding flavorful creations. The chicly appointed dining room, featuring a large and atmospheric fireplace, accommodates many guests, and the place is completely full. The amuse-bouche of Zeeland oyster with yuzu ice cream and spicy sake foam from Jabara, served by maître Rein Denneman, is absolutely delightful, particularly when paired with the complimentary Ruinart champagne. There is no menu card here, just a letter bearing your name and the menu to be served. Alongside it, you can browse the very extensive wine list, which features labels that are certainly not cheap. A wine pairing and a juice pairing are also available. We begin with ceviche of extremely fresh sea bass, topped with a generous portion of caviar and green apple sorbet. The accompanying wine, recommended by the cheerful young sommelier and vinologist Wouter Barneveld, is a Grillo by Marco de Bartoli Vignaverde 2021 from Sicily, a perfect match for the dish. The classic 'Noorderhoeve salad' with herb mousseline and verjus remains on the menu. Noorderhoeve is a care farm within walking distance of the restaurant, and the kitchen receives their cultivated vegetables, transforming them into the most elegant salads. Shoulder, breast, and neck. Lamb is the main course. The shoulder is roasted to a delicious crisp, the breast beautifully pink and buttery tender, while the neck is rich in fat. It is served with lamb jus, capers, and anchovies, alongside baby artichokes and a green pea medley. Paired with a steaming espresso, we indulge in a parade of small confections, among which the tartelette with lemon curd leaves a pleasant, lingering impression. Overnight stays are possible at the adjoining hotel. Do bring a well-stuffed wallet, however, as it is very expensive here. It drops one spot to position 32.

The eye-catching feature in the elegantly appointed dining room is a 'sand window' that can be tilted like an hourglass, continuously taking on new shapes. For years, owners Carla and Martin van Bourgonje have been delivering high-end gastronomy, and with executive chef Jonathan Zandbergen, they have secured a true standout talent. His culinary foundation is rooted in classical French cuisine, though he frequently experiments with modern and international techniques. Ingredients are sourced from the surrounding region, and vegetables play a prominent role on the menu. The amuse-bouches are superb. The green curry ice cream packs a spicy kick and instantly evokes memories of Thailand. For the starter, three distinct preparations of hamachi are presented. One is briefly grilled over charcoal and finished tableside with a shiso dressing. Another features raw slices accompanied by dashi sauce, wasabi ice cream, and dried seaweed. The third is a ceviche topped with a crisp layer of seaweed. Simply masterful! This is followed by a vegetable composition sourced from the specialty farm De Noorderhoeve, dressed with a light foam of garden herbs and verjus enriched with Oloroso sherry. The plating is magnificent, and the flavor combination is outstanding. The ever-cheerful host Rein Denneman pairs it with a white Grenache from Quars in Priorat, which matches flawlessly. For the main course, two preparations of Texel lamb are served. The first is sous-vide lamb neck seasoned with Arabic spices and served with a sea plant and caper vinaigrette; the second is a slow-cooked, buttery tender stewed meat with spices. Coffee is accompanied by a parade of petit fours, each more delightful than the last, though the white chocolate bonbon filled with passion fruit is particularly unforgettable. Such excellence deserves a higher ranking. It comes in at number 31.

Merlet has long been at the forefront of Dutch gastronomy, and even today we remain enthusiastic about this fantastic restaurant, featuring a spacious terrace and guest accommodations near the Schoorl Dunes. Furthermore, owners Carla and Martin van Bourgonje, along with chef Jonathan Zandbergen, remain faithful to his refined French culinary style, enriched with modern international influences. They are also blessed with an enthusiastic maître sommelier, Stefan Wierda, who is supported by co-host Rein Denneman, whose infectious flair undoubtedly fosters the relaxed atmosphere that prevails here. We pair our North Sea crab appetizer with glasses of ripe Mosel Riesling (Dr. Hermann). Delicate, succulent scallop meat is enriched with foie gras, fermented plum, and popped quinoa, accompanied by a separate cup of crab meat dressed with watermelon, beetroot, and foie gras. Unmatched in flavor, just like the perfectly cooked piece of sea bass served in a caper beurre blanc with chanterelles, a mousseline of round purple sprouting broccoli, and black garlic. The main course likewise showcases the impeccable craftsmanship of Zandbergen and his team. Texel lamb, aged for two weeks in hay and beeswax, is seared and served butter-tender alongside eggplant and almond lasagna, neck meat, lamb stew, lamb tongue, artichoke, amlou, and house jus. A deep red 'Transient Lands' (Angus Paul), a robust Cape Pinotage brimming with concentrated fruit and spice, adds even more brilliance to this magnificent meal. Everything comes together perfectly here!

A contemporary interior, kinetic art, light installations, a natural stone floor, comfortable tub chairs, beautiful wooden tables set with linen napkins, and moss-green wall benches. All of this awaits in a stunning dining room with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a lush green garden. There is a vibrant buzz among owners Carla and Martin at Bourgonje, and the same energy fills the open kitchen, where executive chef and SVH Master Chef Jonathan Zandbergen and his team are cooking up a storm. His culinary approach is rooted in tradition and innovation, resulting in dishes that offer a fresh interpretation of French cuisine, blending global flavors with locally sourced ingredients. Vegetables play a key role, as they are easily digestible and incredibly versatile. Martin says: “We work with the finest local products, treating animals and nature with the utmost respect. Regional and organic. Organic dairy and vegetables from the Noorderhoeve farm, which maintains its own seed fields for Merlet; Wagyu cattle from the Schoorl dunes; and sea bass caught by fisherman Jack off the Schoorl coast. We also bake our own bread.” Maître sommelier Stefan Wierda, who has been working at Merlet since 2008, joyfully and expertly selects wines that perfectly complement not only the dish, but also the guest, the moment, and the occasion. The wine list features a diverse selection of wines that clearly reflect a deep respect for nature, along with passion and dedication. Here, you experience the highest standard of gastronomy, hospitality, and expertise. A golden address!

It was preceded by months of renovations, but owners Carla and Martin of Bourgonje are now reaping the rewards: their revamped Merlet is simply stunning. Old-world elegance has been swapped for a contemporary interior featuring kinetic art and light installations. The entrance and natural stone flooring are also new; classic chairs have been replaced by more comfortable deep-seated chairs and moss-green benches, while the tables have been stripped of their linen. The restaurant is bursting at the seams during our visit, exuding a vibrant atmosphere of contentment, and the blissful clatter of cutlery and tinkling of glasses can be heard echoing from the private dining rooms as well. With welcome bites such as oxtail stew with kimchi and coriander; crab with ginger and trout roe; and goose liver with orange and amlou (Moroccan dip), chef Jonathan Zandbergen – surrounded by a battalion of kitchen staff – sets the tone for an unforgettable dinner. This begins with a tartare of wagyu and oyster, caper leaf, caviar, and shellfish liquor. Followed by a trio of crab, razor clam, and Dutch brown shrimp, served in sauces enriched with dashi, yuzu and pumpkin, and miso, respectively. Both starters are delightful, featherlight, and beautifully layered with salinity, acidity, and umami. They pair exquisitely with a Crozes-Hermitage Alain Graillot poured by the excellent sommelier Stefan Wierda, a floral blend of marsanne and roussanne. The beef short rib that follows is melt-in-the-mouth tender, accompanied by a phenomenal garnish of barbecued artichoke, ice plant, truffle, and veal jus. Equally impressive is the grey mullet, served first as sashimi in dashi with bottarga, and then fried and drizzled with its own pan jus. Kudos also to the skilled and infectious enthusiasm of the black brigade. Merlet rises to 40.

The kitchen of executive chef Jonathan Zandbergen is becoming increasingly delicious. From the delightful amuse-bouches through to the dessert, you are continually delighted by fantastic dishes at this beautifully situated restaurant in the dunes, run by Martin and Carla van Bourgonje. A prawn soufflé with lava mayonnaise and lobster foam, served in a beautifully lacquered box, is a true eye-catcher. Various preparations of beetroot with eel and carrot with goose liver mousse prepare you for even more flavor explosions. The house champagne Ruinart Brut pairs perfectly with it. For an appetizer, we taste sashimi with barbecued celeriac, yuzu, and smoked, pressed caviar. Also served is sushi with 'rice' made from North Sea crab, ponzu, and wasabi, plus sea bass belly tartare with Anna Gold caviar. What flavors! We drink the Frankische Sylvaner Spätlese Christ 2015 alongside it, recommended by the skilled sommelier Stefan Wierda. For the main course, there is roe deer from the Veluwe with Indian garam masala, beetroot, and celeriac. The house-made, robust game jus completes the dish. The Petit Clos Canarelli 2015 from Corsica, made from Nielluccio, Sciaccarello, and Syrah grapes, once again confirms the sommelier's expertise. Finally, the dessert surrounded by 'dry ice' features wild Bolivian chocolate with hazelnut, sesame, lime, and green matcha akashi. Here too, a lovely glass of wine is poured: Château Le Payral 2011 from Saussignac, made from Chenin Blanc and Semillon grapes. Excellent and beautifully presented, good coffee, with a finale featuring a trolley offering a wide selection of homemade pastries. Score rises to 44.

The stately restaurant of Martin and Carla van Bourgonje is located in the center of the village, just behind the dunes. The interior has been updated, but the kitchen has also changed: they have switched from classic French to Far Eastern cuisine. This is due to head chef Jonathan Zandbergen, who is innovative and unafraid of culinary adventures. As demonstrated when starting with glasses of Badische Weissburgunder from Kopp, alongside several beautifully crafted amuse-bouches, among which the creation of flat Zeeland oysters with wasabi ice and soy dressing most surprised our taste buds. The starter of softly cooked organic trout loin combined with fennel and smoked crème fraîche will long remain in our memory. The golden-hued Pouilly-Fumé Alexandre Bain made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes from the Loire (2015), selected by sommelier Stefan Wierda, pairs well with it. The half lobster that follows is roasted and drizzled with verjus and a foam of coconut and lemongrass. A bold combination, but the chef skillfully balances the flavors so that the lobster remains prominent. 'Anjou pigeon 1001 Nights' sounds like a fairy tale, and the thrilling presentation lives up to it. Served in a tajine, the pigeon breast in a salt crust features '1001 Nights spices' that do not overpower the flavor. The Lebanese Symphonie (Château Khoury, 2012), a blend of Pinot Noir and local grapes from the Bekaa Valley, enhances the Oriental atmosphere. A beautiful dish! To finish, pure chocolate, banana, yuzu, and fresh passion fruit jelly are served with a glass of Sula Reserva Chenin Blanc from India. Fresh and full-bodied. Merlet rises two places to 45.