't Stokpaardje

A well-known institution in Alkmaar and the surrounding area. 't Stokpaardje, owned and hosted by Eric Muller, has long enjoyed a reputation for its charming restaurant in the center of Alkmaar. Classic French cuisine reigns supreme here, and guests gladly make their way to it. The ambiance is cozy, featuring white linen tablecloths on generously spaced tables, silver accents, wooden paneling, and candlelight throughout. A monthly rotating multi-course menu is paired with matching wines – available by the half glass as well – along with coffee or tea and friandises. The kitchen relies on daily fresh and organic local produce to deliver an optimal flavor profile. The first course features confit trout fillet topped with salty herbs on a lime-ginger gel, accompanied by a mosaic of leek and nori. It is spring on a plate. Next come tenderly prepared lamb cutlets with a crispy green herb crust, served alongside a spiced eggplant stew, roasted peppers, thyme gnocchi, and an aromatic morel jus. The portion arrives generously at the table. Save room for dessert, because finishing with the lemon meringue tart featuring calamansi custard, five-spice crumble, and white chocolate-coconut ice cream is truly worth the indulgence. The price-to-quality ratio is also exemplary. A solid establishment.

Het Stokpaardje has been an icon in the heart of Alkmaar for decades. Owner and host Eric Muller continues to radiate enthusiasm, and it is infectious. The restaurant exudes an intimate and cozy atmosphere. The interior features wooden elements, the tables are set with spotless white linen, and numerous candles burn in silver candlesticks. Chef Robbert Kuper cooks in a classically French style. The menu offers a choice of two- to six-course menus. Vegetarian variants are available. The dishes are served with matching wines, and there is also a half-glass option. Sommelier Joep de Groot gladly pours organic wines. After a simple amuse-bouche of goat cheese with smoked almonds and cherry tomatoes, we enjoy pickled salmon and beetroot-marinated salmon with stracciatella di burrata, snap pea ice cream, avocado, and a lemon dressing. The salmon tastes surprising, and the different textures give the dish character. Swirling in the glass is a Pinot Gris from Sebastian Erbeldinger, the youngest award-winning German winemaker. We continue with ravioli filled with celeriac and truffle, accompanied by a piece of beer-battered fried cauliflower. The sweet potato puree makes this pasta dish rather high in carbohydrates. We finish with a mango bavarois featuring ruby chocolate pieces, apricot gel, and coconut pearls. Colorful, full of flavor, and carefully prepared. The botrytized wine Château Vari pairs perfectly with it. A nice touch: when ordering coffee, you can choose a bonbon from a special bonbon menu. One point to note, however: the restaurant still smells quite strongly of cigarette smoke, which is not very pleasant.

The owner and host, Eric Muller, is absent during our visit, but his daughter Jada handles the hospitality more than excellently. In this charming vintage-styled restaurant, housed in a small historic building in the heart of Alkmaar, classic French cuisine reigns supreme. Chef Robbert Kuper cooks pure and straightforward, using day-fresh and predominantly organic local produce, which is served in equally classic fashion under old silvered cloches. A new menu is created every six weeks, and you decide for yourself how many courses you wish to enjoy. Whether you choose to or not, refined sommelier Joep de Groot will pour matching wines to accompany them. A surprisingly excellent choice, for instance, is the French chilled, fruity Pineau des Charentes Rouge from Vallein Tercinier paired with the cheese board curated by Blankendaal. But first, we enjoy a salad of blanched white asparagus accompanied by potato salad, ham, and crispy five-spice crackers, served alongside warm toasted white bread. Next comes a generous portion of expertly cooked tail cut, served with pommes Anna, a pea and mint cream, roasted peppers, and slightly over-smoked green asparagus. Delicious, especially the sprigs of pea shoots that add a real burst of flavor to the dish. Paired with it in the glass is a perfectly matching 2022 Palacio Quemado Crianza. Following the cheese course is a mango tartelette featuring passion fruit ice cream, orange-red pepper jelly, and a yogurt-lemon grass crèmeux, where we can truly taste the pastry chef’s craftsmanship. Accompanying the bill is a Wilhelmina peppermint, bringing the evening to a satisfying and regal close.

't Stokpaardje, located in a rustic street in the heart of central Alkmaar, has long been a culinary institution of the famous cheese city. Host and owner Eric Muller welcomes us warmly and with a distinctly relaxed demeanor. This attitude remains unchanged throughout the evening and is largely responsible for the success of his establishment. You feel instantly welcome and genuinely at home. Chef Robert Kuper prepares decidedly classic French cuisine, and it works beautifully. For the starters and intermezzos, we savor both the North Sea crab tartare and the lightly warmed barbecued salmon. Both dishes boast a lovely balance of flavors and are also visually appealing. The meat main course features a perfectly slow-cooked bavette steak with a crispy pistachio crust, served alongside fresh summer vegetables like baked radish, glazed broad beans, courgette flowers, and a Madeira jus. Unfortunately, the vegetarian main course falls slightly short: the same accompaniments are served, but the meat is simply replaced by a few small pieces of roasted cauliflower. It is simply far too little. We round off the meal with a refreshing summer dessert of strawberry bavarois, rhubarb, and meringue. Muller pairs each dish with an appropriate glass of wine, which we greatly appreciate: particularly the white Côtes du Rhône with the crab and the red wine from Sardinia with the mains are well worth noting. In short, we enjoyed a wonderful evening in this cozy restaurant, tastefully decorated with bric-à-brac, set in a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. 't Stokpaardje undoubtedly still deserves its place in this guide.

Robert Kuper is the new head chef at 't Stokpaardje, owned and hosted by Eric Muller. This cozy, bistro-style intimate restaurant, featuring wood paneling, generously set tables with white linen, shiny silver cutlery, and matching candlesticks, is located in the heart of Alkmaar near the Great St. Lawrence Church. Kuper prepares classic French cuisine with international influences. The wine list complements this perfectly, with matching selections available by the glass or half glass. We taste a delicious marbled veal breast with balsamic pearls, piccalilli cream, and pickled button mushrooms. The presentation is elegant and the flavors complement each other beautifully. Next is a well-seared bavette with dukkah, toasted hazelnuts, pumpkin cream, a little nest of carrots, pumpkin compote, and green asparagus. The sweetness of the vegetables takes center stage. Colombier, Parmesan, Epoisse, and Dutch aged Stolwijker grace the cheese board, paired with a 2007 Pocas Colheita Port. Life is good in this charming establishment. Just keep up the great work!

Casper Glas is the head chef at this atmospheric living-room-style restaurant with a French flair, owned by Eric Muller. The restaurant is located in the city center of Alkmaar. The tables are meticulously set with linen, and the silver cutlery is polished to a gleam, just like the candlesticks. The large gilded mirrors and wooden wall paneling complete the ambiance. There is no fixed menu or wine list here; instead, guests are presented with a monthly rotating multi-course selection menu, with matching wines served alongside every dish. The signature dish is lobster bisque, a favorite that brings back many regulars. However, we would do the kitchen a disservice by only highlighting this one item, as Casper prepares numerous exquisite dishes firmly rooted in classical tradition—highly flavorful, with every ingredient distinctly recognizable. Eric Muller: “We work with products that are organic, fresh, and of the highest quality.” Host-sommelier Joep de Groot, together with his team, ensures that the evening runs flawlessly. The pricing is commensurate with the offering. A welcoming restaurant where you truly step out for a proper dinner evening, and as owner Eric himself puts it: “Here, you can enjoy a carefree culinary evening.”  Vrouwenstraat 1, 1811GA

It takes a while before we manage to secure a table for our desired Friday evening, but after several attempts, we succeed. Owner-chef Ton van den Bogaard adheres to a classic formula at this cozy, living-room-style restaurant in the historic center of Alkmaar. All trends pass by 't Stokpaardje, and Ton charts his own course. After host Eric Muller presents the menu tableside, we enjoy an appetizer of warm-smoked, thick, firm, and perfectly cooked scallops. They are served with asparagus, beurre blanc, and chives. Pure flavors on the plate, without any fuss or frills. A glass of white from Gascony, Les Aubas, subtly enhances the dish. The main course is slowly cooked lamb loin filet with an herb crust. The accompanying veal jus is excellent, though poured sparingly. The accompanying glass of red Extremus from the Les Crus Faugères winery has light tannins, but it is a full-bodied wine that pairs well with the robust veal jus. To finish, crème brûlée with vanilla ice cream—nothing particularly thrilling, but simply how it should taste: delicious. Due to the restaurant's busy atmosphere, it takes a while to get the waitstaff's attention, so unfortunately, we forgo the dessert wine. But this minor oversight is easily forgiven.

Owner-chef Eric Muller lets fleeting trends pass him by, cooking French classical cuisine with flair and craftsmanship while adding a lovely twist. It is well appreciated, as the restaurant in Alkmaar’s city center is consistently packed with – mostly somewhat older and very loyal – guests. Host and sommelier Eric Muller quickly joins the table and graciously presents the tasting menu. For the starter, we opt for a selection of lightly smoked scallops, ultra-fresh grilled tuna, Dutch prawns, and smoked salmon, paired with a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand: the Marlborough from Bishop’s Leap. The vegetarian asparagus salad with truffle and the vegetable couscous also earn their fair share of praise. The intermezzo course features warm-smoked salmon with asparagus and a superb chive beurre blanc, accompanied by a French Côtes de Gascogne Colombard from des Aubas. Excellent! For the main course, we savor low-temperature-cooked Iberico pork chops with veal jus, ratatouille, and roasted Roseval potatoes. This is paired with a full, soft Molino Vento Syrah from Sicily, which proves a perfect match. The dessert, French toast made from West Frisian sugar bread with cinnamon ice cream, is delicious but makes for quite a substantial ending to the meal. A slightly lighter dessert wouldn’t go amiss.

A staple in this guide for years, the small and atmospheric restaurant is situated on a picturesque street in the city center of Alkmaar. The tables are set with fine linen, the classic cutlery is silver, and the hot dishes are (still) presented under a cloche. Quite chic, really. Host Eric Muller keeps his mainly regular guests happy with an outstanding wine selection that pairs perfectly with the dishes created by partner and head chef Ton van den Bogaard. This is all highly valued, as we need to book three weeks in advance to secure a table. There is no fixed menu, but rather a choice menu ranging from two to six courses. For each course, diners can choose from daily fresh fish, free-range meat, and seasonal specialties. Vegetarian options are also available. The menus change monthly. Without needing to ask, a carafe of chilled water and a fresh warm sourdough roll are brought straight away. We enjoy pan-fried super-fresh scallops with perfectly cooked asparagus accompanied by chive beurre blanc. A real delight, especially when paired with the recommended wood-aged Verdejo. And just as impressive is the roasted lamb rack with a garlic-herb crust and vegetable macedoine. To finish, an old-fashioned delicious frangipane tart with caramel icing and blackcurrant coulis. Here, everything is cooked and served with love.