212

The atmosphere at Restaurant 212, helmed by chefs Thomas Groot and Richard van Oostenbrugge, is warm and modern, offering a pleasant blend of casual coziness and refinement. The U-shaped layout of intimate nooks with curved banquette seating provides views of the open kitchen, where we can observe the well-oiled interplay between the black and white brigades. The substantial prepayment sets high expectations, and for that amount, we as guests expect to be blown away at the very least by the highest culinary delights. The evening begins with an impressive series of amuse-bouches. These are little masterpieces that are visually and flavor-wise stunning. The Oude Beemster cheese stick and the North Sea crab with sour cream are absolute highlights and set the tone for a promising menu. The dishes are characterized by creativity and a playful nod to comfort food, enriched with classic techniques. The tableside crushing of the crispy parsnip with Holland shrimp, Belper Knolle, and garlic vinaigrette creates a delightful surprise. The sea bass, poached in its scales, served with smoked eel and a jus made from sauerkraut and black truffle, is a masterpiece. That alone makes you want to return. The chocolate-roquefort ice cream cones are also a daring and successful combination. However, there are a few low points. The tuna ventrèche with roasted broccoli salad, mustard vinaigrette, and Gillardeau oyster, along with the gianduja chocolate dessert featuring verbena and lapsang souchong, fail to impress due to their flat flavors, thereby detracting from the overall experience. The price-to-quality ratio feels somewhat off. It drops to eleventh place.

Het kost wat om aan te mogen schuiven bij restaurant 212 in hartje centrum Amsterdam, want alleen al de aanbetaling per persoon is fors. Maar dat schijnt de gasten niet te deren: het is hier altijd volbezet. Heeft ook een beetje met het aantal couverts te maken; 212 telt maximaal zestien couverts. Chefs Thomas Groot en Richard van Oostenbrugge zijn de founders van dit gastronomisch populaire bedevaartsoord en het lijkt of alles wat zij aanraken verandert in goud, getuige hun andere zeer goedlopende zaken als De Juwelier, Bistro la Mer, Auberge en Restaurant De Mark. Het zit luxe in de ambiance met halfronde, zigzaggende banken aan prachtige eikenhouten tafels met uitschuifbare bestekladen en zicht op de open roestvrijstalen keuken waar geconcentreerd gewerkt wordt. De sfeer is relaxed en of je hier nu aanschuift voor een compleet diner of één gerecht met een goed glas wijn alles kan. Sommelier Daphne Oudshoorn denkt graag met je mee en schenkt naar wens gul prachtige wijnen. Exclusieve referenties kunnen met gebruikmaking van de Coravin per glas besteld worden. Het menu is gebaseerd op seizoensproducten en lokale ingrediënten en er wordt ongelooflijk creatief en geraffineerd gekookt. Overrompelend is de langoustine gegaard in eendenvet, opgediend met een rijke dashi-Albuférasaus, bestrooid met koffie en katsuobushi. En de krokant gefrituurde aardpeer, door de chef aan tafel stukgeslagen, gevuld met Hollandse garnalen met een frisse vinaigrette van look en Zwitserse Belper Knolle-kaas is van hemels genot. We sluiten af met bread-and-butterpudding van komijn met ingelegde rozijnen en parfait van gerookt vanille-ijs. Je moet er maar op komen. 212 is van de categorie buitenaards goed. Daalt 2 plaatsjes naar plek 7.

Restaurant 212 (named after its house number on the Amstel), run by Thomas Groot and Richard van Oostenbrugge, is back from the ashes following an unpleasant fire in 2022. The restaurant has undergone a complete renovation. The dining bar has been removed, with bar stools replaced by luxurious semi-circular banquets—four for two people and two for four—offering a view of the open kitchen. The wooden cutlery drawers are now positioned at the front of the tables, while the prep kitchen downstairs and the wine cellar have been restored. Instead of being open five days a week, 212 is now open four days, and the number of covers has been reduced to a maximum of sixteen. All of this is aimed at taking a significant step forward in quality and guest experience. Paired with a Jean Velut Champagne Rosé Brut, no fewer than five culinary calling cards come from the kitchen, including a ceviche of lightly smoked sea bass tartare with passion fruit tiger milk, kohlrabi, lime leaf cream and oil, and coconut sauce that can already be considered a signature dish. The first course features langoustine confited in duck fat, served with dashi sauce and an arabica bean, topped with shavings of katsuobushi bonito. It is a harmonious dish, though the presentation in a small white bowl feels somewhat awkward. Sommelier and chef’s partner Daphne Oudshoorn pairs it with a very fine 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté from Domaine Boyer-Martenot. This is followed by a slightly dry veal escalope on sourdough croutons with barbecued green asparagus and its cream, apricot jelly, and chanterelles, surrounded by a refined veal jus and vitello tonnato foam. For dessert, we receive a pre-dessert: a delightful little horn filled with chocolate and Roquefort. We finish with cherry and whiskey-sour sorbet, kriek foam, and red pepper, topped with raspberry powder. The presentation here is less refined than expected. Kudos to the pastries, which are generously presented and each and every one is absolutely delicious. For all of this, you will pay a rather steep bill, even by capital city standards. Ranks at 5.

In januari 2018 openen chef-duo Richard van Oostenbrugge en Thomas Groot in Amsterdam aan de Amstel (huisnummer 212) hun moderne en intieme restaurant 212. Vanaf dag één vallen lovende recensies hen ten deel. In de laatste editie (2022) van deze gids wordt 212 tot beste restaurant van de provincie bestempeld, met een klinkende rapportage. De lichte en innovatieve keuken wordt net als de eigenzinnige inrichting bejubeld. Er zijn geen tafels, de gasten zitten rondom de open keuken aan een bar in u-vorm en kunnen de verrichtingen van de chefs op de voet volgen. En dan worden Van Oostenbrugge en Groot geconfronteerd met de ergste nachtmerrie denkbaar: in maart 2022 breekt er een brand uit in de kelder en bijkeuken, waarschijnlijk ontstaan door kortsluiting. In eerste instantie lijkt de schade mee te vallen maar helaas, het restaurant moet voor onbepaalde tijd gesloten worden. Een grote collectie exclusieve wijnen is vernietigd en er blijkt flink wat werk aan de winkel te zijn om de schade te repareren. Voor deze editie heeft het rapportageteam van Lekker vanwege de tijdelijke sluiting van 212 geen bezoek kunnen brengen en ontbreekt dit jaar een recensie in deze gids. We wensen Richard en Tomas en het voltallige team toe, dat zij zo snel als mogelijk de deuren van hun geliefde 212 weer kunnen openen om de gasten te plezieren en inspireren met hun gastronomische keuken en grote gastvrijheid.

Everything is excellent about this cosmopolitan capital city restaurant. Most seats are at the wooden bar surrounding the open kitchen, allowing guests to watch the chefs work from their comfortable grey leather chairs. The ceiling is wooden, constructed from a series of inverted pyramid shapes. Owners Richard van Oostenbrugge and Thomas Groot cook fantastically: with deep respect for classic cuisine, yet with a light and inventive touch. The amuse-bouches are each and every one visual masterpieces and flavor bombs. The high expectations they create are largely met; it's only a pity that the taste of North Sea crab is somewhat overshadowed by raw zucchini. However, with another starter—duck-fat confited langoustines—the sauce of duck liver, dashi, broad bean, and katsuobushi (tuna shavings) is so divine that, in our view, it deserves to be recorded as the definitive sauce of 2021. The sweet course, wild strawberries with a meringue made from distilled herbs, is also excellent, and the selection of over forty Dutch cheeses is phenomenal. Our hostess performs her duties flawlessly. She is knowledgeable, friendly, and intuitively understands what we need, particularly regarding the pace of service. Kudos also to sommelier Daphne Oudshoorn, who serves exquisite wines with great expertise. For example, pairing the barbecued lobster, shellfish gnocchi, Tasmanian truffle duxelles, and foamy vin jaune sauce with a Terroir sense Fronteres from the Catalan producer Brisat de Montsant was an absolute find. One minor note: the wine glasses are only refilled after the starter and dessert have already been served. We would prefer it the other way around.

Last year, we were already enthusiastic about the gastronomic quality that chefs Richard van Oostenbrugge and Thomas Groot serve at their bar. This year, it has not diminished. The food here is cooked fabulously well! 212, named after the house number of their intimate restaurant on the Amstel, has no tables. You eat at the bar. It is built around the kitchen, so the chefs literally cook right in front of you. They also serve the dishes themselves. Richard and Thomas are classically trained, but do not shy away from new cooking techniques. The focus is on depth. There is a set menu, optionally including a wine pairing, and you can choose from à la carte dishes. Hostess and sommelier Daphne Oudshoorn, Richard’s partner, draws from a wine cellar full of special finds. But once a bottle is opened, she places it in front of you and you happily pour your own. Here you experience how high-level dining goes perfectly hand in hand with a relaxed and informal atmosphere. Excellent! During the coronavirus crisis, a private dining room and a new kitchen were added on the lower floor, which bodes well for the future.

Superkoks Richard van Oostenbrugge and Thomas Groot left Bord’Eau and opened their own place across from the Stopera, simply named after the house number. It’s now a squeeze there because the kitchen performances are phenomenal. There are no longer any table settings; you dine at a high central bar surrounding the kitchen. Incredible amuse-bouches immediately grab your taste buds: fermented shiitake broth and sesame foam, sardine with confit olives. Wow! Then the starter: a roasted marrowbone filled with veal roast and cream cheese, and a lightly salty sprat dressing with a dollop of herring roe. Amazing, what a flavor sensation. The glass of Schäfer-Fröhlich Riesling 2017 pairs perfectly. The second course is even more beautiful if possible: a baked pear stuffed with its own flesh processed into a cream, then crisply fried. At the table, this pear ball is gently smashed open and grated cheese is sprinkled over it. Delicious. Surprising that such a simple ingredient leads to something like this. Also memorable is the softly cooked monkfish with nutmeg and a piece of the fish’s own liver. Served with a lovely beurre blanc featuring aloe vera and plum cream. The beautiful glass of Rosé d’Equinoxe Bourgueil rosé completes the picture. For the main course comes perfectly cooked venison threaded through with lardo di colonnata. Topped with an “olive” made of puttanesca sauce, alongside bright green pepper sauce and venison jus. Utterly harmonious flavors. Supported by a Tuscan Rosso dei Nostri Tua Rita 2015. The dessert brings jasmine and lychee, tangerine and celery, pear with pepper and turmeric. A super-tasty conclusion, especially paired with the late-harvest Sauvignon Blanc from the Palatinate by Oliver Zeter, 2018. This outstanding establishment climbs 37 places to number 20 in the Lekker Top-100.

Chefs Richard van Oostenbrugge and Thomas Groot left the restaurant Bord'Eau in Amsterdam and opened 212 in the same city in January 2018. The kitchen is literally at the center here. A maximum of 24 guests can sit at the bar surrounding the kitchen, which creates a fantastic interaction. Each seat has its own cutlery drawer. There are no rules or etiquette here, no chef's menu or wine pairings; you opt for a choice menu of five to eight courses. The highly skilled sommelier Daphne Oudshoorn advises on wine selection. Richard and Thomas experiment extensively with small dishes. The amuse of crispy chicken skin with a ball of shiso that bursts in the mouth, along with some sauce royale, blows us away right from the start. The tartare of cold-smoked sea bass with tiger's milk and a plankton cream is also delightful. We choose the five-course menu and begin with North Sea crab with XO sauce, airy crispy bits of chicken skin, and a foamy sweetbread sauce. A lovely, light dish with a well-balanced flavor profile. Next come beautiful, large langoustines confit in duck fat with an albufera made from dashi, coffee, and katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes). In the glass, a 2014 Sancerre from Alphonse Mellot Le Manoir that pairs perfectly. The pièce is monkfish lacquered with smoked garlic, garam masala, and a mussel broth. And without wanting to resort to superlatives, this dish is phenomenally good. So too is the superbly cooked piece of top loin with lardo di Colonnata, a pepper and olive jus, freeze-dried olive kernels, and an olive stuffed with puttanesca. Accompanied by an excellent red Azienda Agricola Tua Rita 2016 from Tuscany. And yes, it's almost inevitable: the dessert is simply sublime. Smoky bourbon sorbet with a sphere of amarena cherries. It makes its debut in the Top 100 at number 57.