Bistro de la Mer

A cross between a French bistro and a traditional brown pub, with menus presented in wooden wine crates, vintage tableware, and above all, a wonderfully relaxed and inviting atmosphere. Owners and executive chefs Richard van Oostenbrugge and Thomas Groot have truly hit the mark. We settle at the dark wood bar and begin counting the large empty caviar tins discreetly tucked into the decor. There are plenty of them. When asked if we would like to start with an oyster, we gladly accept, receiving a plump Gillardeau generously topped with o-toro tuna and Asetra caviar. The tone is set. Drawing from French cuisine infused with global influences, the first course arrives: a celery root roulade with horseradish and Dutch shrimp, finished with an XO sauce crumble and citrus foam. The rich butter sauce, built around Poire Williams and droplets of shellfish oil, is a true delight for the senses. Meanwhile, the fish supplier trying to squeeze past us with his empty and full hand trucks might slightly distract from the experience, though it is hardly ideal to have suppliers navigating through the dining room during lunch service. As our exceptionally warm, friendly, and relaxed server pours us a generous glass of 2022 Tardieu-Laurent Condrieu, the langoustines arrive at the table. Coated in speculaas spices and served with a rich, foamy shellfish jus, finished with crispy kale. The dessert draws inspiration from the viral TikTok 'Dubai' trend. Salted pistachio ice cream paired with a caramelized white chocolate mousse, crispy kataifi, and roasted pistachios, all finished with pistachio oil. It is hardly original, but impeccably executed. What a feast!

High quality cooking

At the long bar of Bistro de la Mer, we guests are almost part of the kitchen. Fresh fish is filleted and all dishes are prepared in the open kitchen right under our eyes. The flavors of the mackerel grilled over binchotan, the jelly of...

Having debuted last year and earning further acclaim this year, this pleasant and relaxed little gem by top chefs Richard van Oostenbrugge and Thomas Groot, alongside sommelier Daphne Oudshoorn. A cross between a Parisian bistro and an Amsterdam brown café. There are no tables set with linen here, but rather a long dark wooden bar where guests take their seats with a view of the kitchen. Fish takes center stage, and the à la carte menu offers plenty of choice at very reasonable prices. The wine list is largely classically and attractively laid out, but the wines by the bottle are outright expensive. As an amuse-bouche, the now famous foamy bisque of Dutch shrimp with salted lemon is served in a Royal Albert cup decorated with a rose motif. The crab cocktail features four distinct layers: a bisque jelly, crab tartare, avocado, and jalapeño foam. It is an appetizer that makes you crave it back even before the last bite. In the glass, a pleasant 2022 Chardonnay from Domaine Masse. Then comes monkfish Rossini. Perfectly cooked and topped with a thick slice of pan-fried foie gras. The accompanying sauce of umeboshi and dashi delivers a true flavor explosion. We wipe our plates clean with crispy fried bread, which is replenished whenever the bread plate runs out. The 2020 Fournier Marsannay hits the mark. The rhubarb and blood orange dessert listed on the menu arrives with strawberries instead, and tastes somewhat flat. Served with the espresso, once again in a classic floral-patterned cup, come generous madeleines. They are still warm. Mmm. This year, Bistro de la Mer stands on the threshold of the Top-100.

Bistro de la Mer is one of the four establishments that are part of the growing hospitality group of top chefs Richard van Oostenbrugge and Thomas Groot. In a nutshell: a restaurant dressed in a classic brown café style. The relatively understated interior transports you back to the 1930s. The star of the show is a long bar. Chefs cook and staff serve on one side, while guests dine on the other. You’re seated right up against the kitchen, which is fun, but this comes at the cost of rather Spartan bar stools. Dark wood and exposed brick walls dominate, occasionally brightened by vintage tins and other knickknacks. The name 'de la mer' says it all: seafood is king here. While meat takes center stage in a few dishes and bacon or chicken appear in others, seafood remains the undisputed star. The amuse-bouche arrives in a surprising presentation. Served in a vintage floral teacup, a delicious Dutch-style shrimp bisque with preserved lemon allows Chef Julius Nuiten to immediately establish his culinary footprint. For the starter, a modern take on the classic lobster cocktail is served in a glass. The lobster chunks are accompanied by avocado, lemon, croutons, and a jalapeño foam. Truly an outstanding dish; the natural sweetness of the lobster is beautifully balanced by the brightness of the lemon and the kick of the jalapeño. We also thoroughly enjoy the remaining dishes, though we do have a few minor criticisms. Salt is used a bit too liberally in places, notably in a course featuring blood sausage with wrapped squid, served alongside fried squid, preserved lemon, pimientos de Padrón, and samphire. The squab stuffed with smoked eel, served with chicken jus and anchovy extract, makes for a solid main course. However, the accompanying chicken and artichoke terrine lacks any discernible artichoke flavor. There are still a few details to iron out, but we wholeheartedly welcome this bistro to Lekker.