Taiko

In the former Sweelinck Conservatorium, where Taiko has its home base, a cosmopolitan atmosphere prevails. The restaurant is the domain of chef Schilo van Coevorden, classically French-trained yet deeply passionate about Asian cuisine. He divides his time between Taiko Amsterdam and his sister restaurant in Dubai. The venue attracts many well-heeled travelers and local guests who truly value Van Coevorden’s Eastern cuisine. On the table sits a bottle of Rotterdam-made sea buckthorn soy sauce. A creative discovery and surprisingly flavorful when paired with the elegant Japanese dishes that are served at a steady pace. We choose the five-course omakase menu, which is also available in a vegetarian version. The opening course features sustainably caught Balfegó tuna: served as sashimi with caviar and sakura dressing, as a melt-in-your-mouth otoro nigiri, and as a temaki with tartare made from the belly of this bluefin tuna – top quality, beautifully presented on stylish blue ceramics. Next, lobster takes center stage in three preparations. It appears as a gyoza with glazed mushrooms, roasted with a crispy pastry and a hint of crispy chili sauce, and – the standout of the trio – as a light cappuccino with tomato foam and nori strips. The evergreen miso black cod is served with pak choi, a celery and miso bonbon, dried seaweed, and wild garlic sauce. A must-order! New on the menu is the duck breast with teriyaki glaze, green and white asparagus, cherry blossom gel, and a generous duck jus, accompanied by confit duck and a duck gyoza. Our attentive Greek waiter Marcos pours a 100% Tempranillo Crianza Cepa Gavilán from Ribera del Duero – a perfect pairing. We conclude with a stunning dessert of white chocolate, sakura gel, raspberry-lychee cream, and a crumble. The bill is steep, but for this exceptional quality and worldly ambiance, it is worth every euro.

The Asian restaurant Taiko (Japanese for 'big drum') is located in the former drum practice room of the music school that once occupied the building now known as the Conservatorium Hotel. The spacious dining room boasts a relaxed yet slightly upscale ambiance, elegantly appointed with a moody atmosphere. Chef Schilo van Coevorden, classically French-trained but captivated by the Far East from an early age, leads a team comprising members from Japan, China, and elsewhere to craft a modern Asian culinary experience. His dishes pay homage to exotic flavors and textures. The menu offers a generous selection of à la carte dishes, including sushi, alongside various set menus, one of which is entirely vegetarian. The wine list features international labels alongside sake, non-alcoholic beverages, and an extensive tea menu. We begin with an assortment of pickles, vinegars, and fermented vegetables, with staff explaining that they can be sampled before, between, and alongside each course. The 'Iced Avocado' appetizer is outstanding, featuring a spicy green curry with ginger, a quenelle of avocado ice cream, topped with caviar and crispy roasted soybeans. This is followed by 'Tuna, Sushi & Sashimi', served in two courses. It includes melt-in-your-mouth tuna sashimi accompanied by yuzu jelly and wasabi sesame seeds. Next comes the 'Sichuan Tofu', a traditional Chinese dish featuring silken tofu seasoned with aromatic spices characteristic of fiery Sichuan cuisine, served with crispy puffed Taiko rice and spring onions. Remarkably, a glass of Veuve Clicquot champagne is served alongside it. We continue with the 'Alaska Black Cod', cod marinated in white miso with saffron, served with a tart berry compote, ponzu sauce, and soy-glazed grilled eggplant. Stunningly presented and intensely flavorful. The 'Chocolate Shizen' dessert is a visual spectacle, though rather rich as a finale. And that goes double for the bill. Everything justifies its price, but we were still somewhat startled by the total.

Taiko (Japanese for large drum) is located in the former drum classroom of the conservatory and is part of the eponymous luxury hotel. Chef Schilo van Coevorden has his roots just around the corner, but his passion lies with the exotic flavors of the Far East. Together with executive chef Hugo Engels and a team of expert cooks from countries such as China and Japan, he presents a modern Asian cuisine that is highly popular with guests from both home and abroad. The atmosphere in the cosmopolitan dining room is casual and relaxed. The menu is impressive. Paired with a fine glass of Sancerre Les Panseillots from Domaine Guillerault comes an amuse-bouche of crispy raw vegetables with a light peanut-sesame dip alongside a small bowl of warm edamame. The soft-shell crab sushi with daikon sprouts, fresh kimchi, and tempura is an immediate hit. Just like the buttery-soft tuna sashimi and the nigiri with creamy avocado and Scottish salmon. The siu mai with duck, Schilo's signature dish, featuring five-spice, chili, and hoisin sauce, is equally impressive. The vegetarian green curry is generously packed with al dente green asparagus, tofu, and shiitake mushrooms, served alongside a bowl of yellow coconut rice and kimchi. Applause goes to the black cod, marinated in miso for over 24 hours and then perfectly cooked. The buttery flakes fall apart effortlessly. Paired with a slightly chilled Gabel Spätburgunder from the Palatinate. We finish off with the Sakura Garden dessert, indulging in chocolate cake with mousse, honey, and cherry ice cream, beautifully decorated with chocolate flowers. Simply excellent.

Waar vroeger het drumlokaal was van muziekacademie het Conservatorium is nu het luxueuze restaurant Taiko gevestigd. Chef Schilo van Coevorden, klassiek Frans geschoold, is er de begenadigde chef en zijn modern-Aziatische keuken kan bogen op een grote schare fans uit binnen- en buitenland. Al op jonge leeftijd raakte Van Coevorden geïnspireerd door de smaken en texturen uit het Verre Oosten en hij neemt je graag mee op avontuur om je kennis te laten maken met de enorme veelzijdigheid van deze keukens. Veel van de gebruikte ingrediënten komen rechtstreeks uit Azië die door zijn team koks uit onder andere China en Japan verwerkt worden in verrassende en creatieve gerechten. Op de menukaart naast een vast menu diverse keuzes à la carte en de wijnkaart bevat internationale labels naast verrassend veel sake. We proeven dimsum van kreeft met champignons, XO, zeewier, ui en bieslook naast dimsum van eendenborst, licht gebakken, gestoomd, weer even gebakken en op smaak gebracht met hoisin saus en een beetje chili. Verrukkelijk! Perfect gebakken tarbot gaat samen met met bok choy, pinda en een Thai salsa. Prachtig in smaakbalans en beeldschoon opgediend. Tot slot een sterke dubbele espresso waar heel simpel een fortune cookie bij wordt gepresenteerd. Taiko is een exclusief restaurant met een topchef en spontane, vakbekwame medewerkers. De rekening is op het randje: neem een dikgevulde portemonnee mee.

Where conservatory students in Amsterdam once practiced their drum solos, Restaurant Taiko now resides. Its name is derived from the Japanese taiko drum, known for producing a deeper resonance in percussion. Located within the sophisticated and cosmopolitan Conservatorium Hotel, this naturally accounts for the high number of international and often affluent foreign guests. The dining room is elegantly and formally appointed, while the atmosphere remains relaxed and casual. Executive Chef Schilo van Coevorden specializes in Eastern cuisines, with a particular focus on Japan. His culinary philosophy is built upon this foundation: modern yet respectful of tradition, Asian-inspired with exotic flavors and textures. This results in dishes that can be delicate, yet explosively flavorful. Since the pandemic, the menu has been streamlined to feature a curated selection of the best signature dishes that guests missed most during the smart-lockdown period. The kitchen team is highly international, featuring chefs from countries including China and Japan. A standout feature is the extensive wine list, complemented by a stunning sake collection curated by a certified sake sommelier. English is the primary language spoken by the restaurant staff, which proves convenient. It is also advisable to bring a well-stuffed wallet. Life here is excellent, but certainly comes at a steep price.

As you enter the atmospheric dining room, guests are welcomed with a strike on the taiko drum. English is the primary language, the atmosphere is pleasantly sophisticated, there are many upscale tourists, and it is comfortably bustling. The tables are placed very close together. Head chef Schilo van Coevorden specializes in Eastern cuisine with a focus on Japan. The service is formal and occasionally a bit pushy. For instance, we are almost pressured into ordering champagne as an aperitif, which we would much rather choose for ourselves. The extensive wine list features a beautiful selection of sake. The menu offers several set menus, sushi, sashimi, grilled dishes, and specials. To start, a small selection of bite-sized dishes including raw lobster with rhubarb, sake sorbet, and myoga (flower buds of Japanese ginger). Everything is excellent and beautifully presented. An absolute standout dish is the black cod with sea vegetable pizza. The cod has been marinated in miso for two days and then caramelized in the oven with yuzu. A feast for the taste buds and superb paired with the 2016 Guillerault Sancerre. The glazed Anjou pigeon with teriyaki and sudachi is also perfectly prepared. The accompanying maki roll with foie gras and umeboshi (small plum pickled in salt and red miso) falls short, being too sour and definitely not complementing the refined, slightly nutty flavor of the pigeon. The recommended glass of Côte de Brouilly Les Jumeaux 2015 pairs well, but it would have been courteous to mention beforehand that it carries a price tag of 25 euros. And that is precisely the catch. You dine here grandly, but so does the bill.

In this cosmopolitan restaurant, which is part of the Conservatorium Hotel, every guest is welcomed with a strike on the taiko drum by a Japanese percussionist. Eye-catching features in the dining room include tall tube lamps, an open wine and glass cabinet, and a stone wall that gives the restaurant a warm ambiance. The tables are placed very close together, requiring some agility to navigate between them. Chef Schilo van Coevorden presents contemporary Asian cuisine and does so with great craftsmanship. We opt for the vegetarian version of the Progressive Omakase menu and embark on an impressive culinary journey through India, Japan, China, South Korea, and Thailand. Highlights include an incredibly beautiful green curry with braised Little Gem lettuce, melon sashimi with fried black rice, and mushroom and truffle siu mai. There are no low points. However, we do have two critical observations: some ingredients appear too frequently (edamame beans, for instance), and the texture is somewhat one-dimensional. Van Coevorden relies heavily on creams and mousses; it isn't until the main course that we encounter anything with bite. Fitting this atmosphere is a beverage experience, where sommelier Romy Krijt – alongside wine – pours among other things two different sakes. For the main course, for example, an aged Biden from 1999 with caramel notes. Finally, a compliment to the service, which is guest-focused and attentive.