Watergang

New in the guide last year, it has once again received enthusiastic reviews. Watergang is not overly large, spread across several floors, featuring plenty of Spanish-style artwork on the walls and a relaxed atmosphere. The tables are set with white tablecloths and the chairs are comfortable. Owner and chef Tim van Grootheest runs the restaurant seamlessly alongside hostess Mo Schuttel. There is no à la carte menu; dining follows the table d'hôte concept, where guests enjoy what the kitchen prepares. The Mediterranean multi-course menu changes monthly and can be supplemented with oysters and cheese. We start with classic-style served Irish oysters, paired with a glass of Crémant from Alsace. Staying true to the Spanish ambiance, a green gazpacho made from peppers and cucumber is served as an amuse-bouche, accompanied by pappadums with chive cream. Next comes pre-marinated salmon with strawberry and yellow beetroot, dressed with a surprisingly fresh combination of buttermilk, dill cream, tomato juice, and basil oil. A lovely light beginning. We continue with asparagus served with hollandaise sauce and strips of toasted bread with eel and lamb ear. Unfortunately, the asparagus were just slightly undercooked, giving them a bit too much bite. But then arrives the star of the menu! Perfectly pan-seared quail breast with stuffed morels in a surprisingly flavorful Albufeira sauce, field peas, and a peanut crumble. Everything is spot on: the texture, the flavor profile, and the elegant presentation. The dessert is equally delightful. Panna cotta cream with yogurt ice cream, rhubarb, and mixed berries. Paired with a glass of late-harvest Chardonnay from Domaine Musset-Roullie. A fine establishment, certainly worth visiting for lunch as well. Do keep in mind that reservations are essential, as the restaurant is almost always fully booked.

Simplicity is the keyword at Watergang, located in a narrow building in a cozy capital neighborhood. Stuccoed white walls feature bullfighting tiles in several spots. The tables are nicely set with linen and we sit comfortably on chairs with leather upholstery, but otherwise the interior is quite Spartan: a natural stone floor on the ground level; on the mezzanine a wooden floor with an unidentifiable coating and a view of a small platform with power outlets. It looks like a random collection of secondhand furniture. But we can certainly speak highly of the dishes by head chef Tim van Grootheest – who, together with hostess Mo Schuttel, owns the restaurant – and in a few cases even become lyrical. Van Grootheest uses classical cuisine as a base, with a contemporary touch: bold here and there, often subtle. The highlight is the starter from the five-course surprise menu: crispy-fried sweetbread, served with cockles and sea squirt. The sauce made with vadouvan and a coconut milk reduction is fantastically seasoned and creates a successful marriage between the offal and the shellfish. The dessert is also top-notch: a rhubarb tartlet with strawberry and elderflower vinaigrette and yogurt ice cream. A beautiful interplay between the tart rhubarb and the lovely acidity of the vinaigrette. The lamb leg that is part of the main course is less successful: too red and too tough. The service is somewhat inconsistent: the male server on duty is friendly and clearly knows his way around wine, as evidenced by his explanations when pouring the glasses. His female colleague is initially stiff and mainly limits herself to setting and clearing the plates. Gradually she thaws out a bit, but only after we have initiated a conversation. That should be the other way around, it seems to us. What remains tricky is a restaurant concept with a double shift. True, Watergang makes this clear during booking, but it still gives a somewhat rushed feeling when you're told at the start of the meal that you need to keep eating, since your successors will be ready in just over two hours. In practice, there is a slightly wider margin, but still. The price-to-quality ratio is more than satisfactory. Welcome to Lekker.