Lokaal

The ambiance of this restaurant is regal: a spacious, high-ceilinged dining room in the beautiful Villa Ruimzicht. It takes quite a while before we can order our aperitif, and the lack of service is noticeable on several occasions. You can choose from six, nine, or eleven 'impressions'; small dishes slightly larger than an amuse-bouche and somewhat smaller than an appetizer. Chef and co-owner Bjorn Massop prefers to work with local seasonal produce and gives suppliers space on the website to present themselves in words and images. A pleasant presentation. Less pleasant is the fact that the first impression takes well over three-quarters of an hour to arrive, so we have to consume our aperitif (ordered for the first impression) alongside the otherwise delicious bread. We start with a mini poké bowl of sprouted spelt with pickles from their own garden, Tomasu soy sauce, sesame dressing, and freshly grated wasabi at the table. A small but delightful starter. Next, mozzarella mousse in a layer of tomato jelly with basil jus and a basil butterfly. Beautiful as it may be, it lacks flavor and the butterfly isn't very crispy. Meanwhile, a lovely, fresh wine is in the glass: Kroiss Wiener Gemischter Satz Sievering 2023. Delicious are the chunks of lobster in a base of bisque, paired with slices of grape, apple blossom flowers, and a few strands of samphire. Well-seasoned are the cubes of smoked new potatoes with beef tongue, cornichons, and hay foam. Now a very nice wine comes to the table: Cannonau di Sardegna riserva 2021 from Dimonios. An excellent partner for the dry-aged duck breast with beetroot in various variations. Sommelier Paul Hoeré knows his craft. Finally, basil ice cream made from sheep's milk with pea mousse, strawberry mousse, and a fresh strawberry. Tasty, but all in all, there are still a few details to refine.

Owner and head chef Bjorn Massop is deeply committed to preparing his dishes according to a farm-to-table philosophy, using the freshest, sustainably produced, and ethically sourced ingredients from the surrounding area. The menu is crafted based on the seasonal inspiration nature provides, showcasing the Achterhoek region at the highest level. There is close collaboration with regular local suppliers, all of whom are introduced to guests on Lokaal’s website. Lokaal is located in the monumental and impressive building of Hotel Villa Ruimzicht, which was built in 1853 for a wealthy farmer and later served as a school complex, hence the name 'Lokaal'. After a major renovation in 2007, the villa now delights the eye, the culinary palate, and offers comfortable overnight stays in one of its 42 hotel rooms. The kitchen team, led by Bjorn and his sous-chef Jennifer Bos, is international and is being trained to eventually spread their wings. The menu features choices ranging from breakfast and lunch to bar snacks and a seasonal surprise menu. In spring, an à la carte menu was added, featuring dishes sized like appetizers. SVH Wine Master and host Robin Overdreef, along with head sommelier Paul Hoeré, gladly serve beautiful pairings with these dishes. We taste a marble of pickled, gently cooked, and subsequently lightly smoked wild goose with morel mushroom and celeriac cream, crispy buckwheat, drizzled with a broth tea made from autumn leaves and birch bark. What a rich array of flavors. Just as beautiful and deeply flavored is the dessert of sweet white chocolate enriched with umami from locally sourced morel mushrooms and chestnut cream. A wonderful place to unwind and enjoy what Mother Nature has to offer.

Chef Bjorn Massop champions a culinary style where green and conscious cooking are central. Sustainability is highly prioritized, and his local suppliers play a key role. Sourdough bread is made from red wheat, eggs used are free-range, Gelderland lupin appears regularly as a legume on the menu, meat comes from retired cows that have lived happy lives, Wagyu from a fully organic and regenerative farm, Angus from a farm practicing sustainable and extensive farming, caviar from the Achterhoek, and vegetables from nearby growers. The menu is – how could it be otherwise – aligned with the seasons. Sommelier Paul Hoere and SVH Wine Master and host Robin Overdreef curate the wine list, which features many beautiful labels primarily from the Old World. The original farmhouse was thoroughly renovated in 2007 into a chic yet modern atmosphere. The sourdough bread is worth a detour, and the accompanying nut butter is top-notch. We sample braised wild garlic with potato crisps, airy potato mousse, and a free-range egg yolk, dusted with algae powder. Yellowtail tuna is accompanied by fermented asparagus and a verbena-asparagus jus, served with a tartelette with cream and caviar. It is feather-light, fresh, and elegant in flavor. After braised lamb neck with grilled sugar lettuce seasoned with cumin, broad bean puree, and turnip greens, we finish with a well-stocked cheese board featuring exclusively Dutch varieties, accompanied by nuts, bread, panforte, and elderberries. Due to the rush, the waitstaff receives help from the kitchen, which necessitates communicating in several different languages. Let’s just say that necessity knows no rules.

New in the guide last year and still featured this year. Lokaal is part of the historic hotel Villa Ruimzicht. It was busy during our visit, catering predominantly to younger guests, and the acoustics are less than ideal. Added to that, the music is fairly loud, making a proper conversation difficult. Social responsibility and sustainable business practices are central here, and Chef Bjorn Massop cooks with regional ingredients because the surrounding area has so much to offer, making it unnecessary to source produce from afar. Massop serves menus available in two versions: one with meat and fish, and a fully vegetarian option. The light potato dish with chive blossoms and a subtle accent is balanced and refreshing, while the caviar with kimchi and horseradish is equally delicious. The main course features perfectly cooked wagyu with pearl barley, red cabbage, and medlar. We pair it with a Domaine de Grangeneuve La Truffière, rich in sun-ripened fruit, laurel, and truffle notes. The dessert is a pleasant surprise: Jerusalem artichoke with its blossom, chocolate, and honey. Detailed explanations of the dishes are regularly given in English by trainee hosts and hostesses. Unfortunately, due to the acoustic issues, this is not always easy to hear clearly. Hopefully, something will be done about it soon.