DOYY

Owner and host Yavuz Yildirim grew up in Eindhoven and pays an understated homage to Azerbaijan, where his roots lie, at Doyy. In the contemporary-inspired kitchen of chef Daan van Lieshout, caviar, for example, gets e...

At this welcoming establishment run by owner and host Yavuz Yildrim, the atmosphere is wonderfully laid-back. And just as importantly, the cooking here is superb. Chef Daan van Lieshout’s repertoire draws on French culinary traditions, a theme he explores and varies freely. This yields modern and frequently thought-provoking dishes. The experience begins with the amuse-bouches. A crispy tartlet with duck liver, apple, and balsamic vinegar is followed by a beetroot crisp with burrata and smoked eel, then a meringue with porcini cream and yuzu gel, and finally a tuile featuring curry, white chocolate, tom kha kai, pineapple, and ginger. Every single one a complete success. Our starter of salmon tartare, smoked salmon, white grapes, and ajo blanco sauce is a picture of refined and balanced flavor, not least thanks to the accompanying glass of Fiano from Apulia. That the chef thinks outside the box is evident in the perfectly cooked scallops served with a blend of cauliflower, passion fruit, crispy nori, and bisque, accompanied by a Garnacha Blanca from Cariñena in Spain. Such creativity. With the more traditional main course of rose-roasted saddle of lamb, white asparagus, stuffed morels, peas, and lamb jus, the friendly and skilled young waitstaff pours a Portuguese blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga Nacional. Power and finesse combined. The owner’s roots shine through with a glass of Traminer from Azerbaijan poured alongside the fresh and varied dessert of crème diplomée, stroopwafel, rhubarb, elderflower, green apple, and pistachio ice cream. We leave thoroughly satisfied. That’s exactly what the word dooy means.

The background of owner Yavuz Yildirim is unmistakably present in this cozy restaurant: on a large wall hangs an impression of Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan. In the kitchen, Daan van Lieshout wields the culinary scepter, and he does so with great flair. The foundation is French, with influences from Asia and Eastern Europe. One of the amuse-bouches is a surprisingly filled white chocolate bonbon with tom yum and pineapple. A pure flavor bomb. Alongside a multi-course menu, there is also a choice of à la carte and bites such as caviar from Azerbaijan. For the starter, a fresh tuna roulade with ginger crisp, sweet-and-sour calamansi roses, and a wasabi emulsion enveloped in a kombu and nori vinaigrette. This delivers a beautiful and balanced flavor profile. For the main course, two preparations of lamb; slices of saddle of lamb, slow-cooked lamb neck with a slightly too salty lamb jus, garnished with green asparagus, 63-degree cooked egg yolk, potato terrine with smoked eel, and chive mousse. The plate is cleared clean. From the pleasantly priced wine list, we choose a ruby-red wine from the French house Abbotts & Delaunay. It boasts a refined aroma of blackcurrant, plum, fig, bay leaf, and cedarwood from fifty-year-old vines, and is partially aged in oak barrels. Heavenly Mud features a canelé with cinnamon ice cream, cacao oublie, nougatine ice cream with moka, vanilla ice cream with rum, hibiscus herb, blackcurrants, and a forest fruit broth. A plate full of happiness. The price-to-quality ratio is exemplary, as is the pleasant service, which is attentive and thoroughly knowledgeable about the menu.

Owner and host Yavuz Yildirim has his roots in Azerbaijan and Turkey, and grew up in Eindhoven. Together with Daan van Lieshout, who has been running the kitchen at Doyy since 2021, he creates a cuisine with a French foundation and unmistakable influences from Asia and Eastern Europe. The atmosphere is cozy and inviting, featuring upholstered banquettes, comfortable tub chairs, and carefully set tables. It looks impeccable. For the aperitif, guests can choose from bites including caviar specially imported from Azerbaijan. We enjoy a glass of Kaiken Sparkling Brut from Argentina and naturally order a spoonful of caviar. What a beautiful start. House-smoked salmon kicks off our lunch menu, featuring yuzu and fennel, sweet and sour shallots, green herb vinaigrette, sorbet, and horseradish foam. Also served is a side dish of poached salmon with potato salad and mustard vinaigrette. Carefully selected flavors that pair excellently with the perfectly prepared salmon, which melts in the mouth. The Cantarranas Verdejo Rueda DO from Spain is a safe choice, but a slightly richer wine would have worked just as well. We continue with saddle of lamb and fried bapao filled with lamb stew, served with garden beans, potato gratin, lamb jus, and herb sauce. The saddle of lamb boasts a lovely crispy crust and is cooked to perfection. The lamb jus is heavily reduced, making it slightly bitter and salty. The Hungarian red wine, Szekszárd Mozaik Bikavér 2019 from Sebestyén Pince, is rich in fruit and pairs perfectly with the lamb. Coffee is served with homemade friandises, including a moist banana cake and a crunchy madeleine. The generous pour of Groussin Cognac VS comes in a pre-warmed glass—class. Service is superb in one word. Everything is delivered with a smile and thorough knowledge of what is being poured or served. A wonderful place to relax and enjoy. One point for attention concerns the wine list. It could feature a bit more variety and excitement.

The name Doyy translates to satisfaction or contentment. It is no coincidence that it also contains the initials of the owner and host, Yavuz Yildrim. This hospitality entrepreneur has been active in the Brabant region for decades but has not turned his back on his roots. Interior design elements reference Azerbaijan, and the wine list even features two wines from that country. All efforts are made to pamper guests culinarily. Young chef Daan van Lieshout’s cooking style is rooted in French cuisine with international influences. To start, we choose two Perle Noire oysters from the ‘Doyy bites’ selection, prepared with beurre blanc and a dollop of caviar. Delicious! The same goes for the marinated hamachi with Chinese green pesto, a green herb and ponzu vinaigrette, and a brioche ice cream cone with artichoke cream. From the fairly modest wine list, we select an Albariño from Serra da Estrela in Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain, offering abundant fruity notes of peach, apricot, and a hint of apple. This pairs seamlessly. The dish of perfectly roasted beef tenderloin with veal jus, porcini bread, and forgotten vegetables could certainly use a bit more excitement. However, the dessert—a coffee liqueur ice cream featuring cantucci crumble and pickled blood orange—is back to a high standard. Daan is a chef worth watching.

Owner and host Yavuz Yildirim has appointed young Daan van Lieshout as chef de cuisine following the departure of the ambitious Cas Pikaar, who has started his own restaurant. The high standard continues in the atmospherically renovated café, where Azerbaijani roots are reflected in the interior design; a large illuminated wall with windows features a photograph of Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan. The centerpiece is the glass floor offering a view into the wine cellar. Doyy is a concise translation of satisfaction, fulfillment, enjoyment, and contentment. And that is achieved through refined dishes rooted in French foundations with Asian influences. We taste this immediately during the aperitif, where amuse-bouches are presented as tom kha kai bonbons with curry crisp and sesame cream on a chickpea tuile, accompanied by a dot of harissa. As a starter, smoked and pickled salmon with a tiger milk vinaigrette, smoked tzatziki, horseradish ice, dill foam, and green apple. What flavor combinations. Just as beautifully prepared is pan-seared turbot fillet on bread, finished with citrus accents and pickled ginger. Served alongside a beurre blanc combined with herb oil, a sweet-and-sour sauce of brined vegetables, and a Japanese kombu broth. Once again, a highly creative and technically masterful dish with very bold flavors. The French Chablis from Domaine Thibert-Miranda, Mâcon-Fuissé, proves itself a worthy companion. Eindhoven now boasts another top-tier establishment.