Zarzo

Before descending to the underground dining room (via stairs or elevator), we take our seats in comfortable lounge chairs on the ground floor. We are immediately delighted with a warm guest towel. Next, alongside one of the numerous wines available by the glass, we receive tasty vegetarian aperitif bites. Once a floor down, there are two more amuse-bouches. One features smoked halibut with a sweet red pointed pepper sauce, and mussels in their own foam with carrot and fennel herb. Simple in execution, exuberant in flavor. Noteworthy is the attention to exquisite tableware, cutlery, and ultra-thin glassware. The latter is not so strange when you consider one of the largest wine lists our country has to offer. Chef Zarzo's greatest hobby. This encyclopedia of approximately 3500 wines includes not only the established names but also young labels. Behind each, it notes that they are still 'in cellar'. The menu is modern and daring, and the dishes carry an unmistakable Spanish touch. Not surprising given that owner Adrian was born in Valencia. To start, finely sliced veal tartare with beetroot coulis, chicken liver cream, and coconut julienne. The farm butter served with the local sourdough bread and the blood sausage butter with chives paired with the squid ink brioche are particularly noteworthy. In between, suquet, a Catalan fish soup, featuring cuttlefish, sea lettuce, zucchini, and horseradish. Followed by turbot with pata negra, citrus gel, eel, and a delicious jelly made from pickle brine. We taste the idiosyncratic and creative hand of the master. In the Prestige wine arrangement, a delightful Puligny-Montrachet is poured alongside it. With the dessert, our taste buds are led astray. Alongside sweet notes of arroz con leche (Spanish rice pudding) and divine goat yogurt ice cream with black pepper, we also encounter earthy flavors such as lamb's lettuce, sea aster, and sweet-and-sour marinated sponge mushroom. Remarkable. A fine address. Drops to place 16 amid the competition at the top.

High quality cooking

Chef-owner Adrian Zarzo launched his stylishly appointed restaurant Zarzo in 2013 and continues to impress to this day with an intriguing cuisine that does not shy away from complexity. It begins in the beautiful ground-floor lounge with five amuse-bouches, including confit turbot with red bell pepper foam, and sea bass with arugula cream, tarragon, and pomelo. No expense is spared on luxury ingredients. This continues in the dining theater downstairs, a lovely space with a view of the open kitchen, where the kitchen brigade prepares magnificent and innovative dishes. Meanwhile, maître Merlijn van der Laar has taken over the duties from Susanne Lemmens, and the transition goes smoothly. Sommelier Stefan Emmen pours excellent selections to accompany the dishes from the completely newly curated, impressive wine list. We begin with kingfish on chicken skin and feta cream, featuring various preparations of tomato and Cape gooseberries with a ginger and tarragon vinaigrette. A beautifully balanced flavor palette, though notably served in modest portions. The same applies to all dishes. Next comes skin-seared red mullet with a salad of zucchini and raw carrot, topped with dried egg yolk, raw almonds, African citrus, and a sauce made from red mullet and tomato. An elegant dish, stunningly presented and exquisitely harmonious in flavor. Stefan pours a magnum of Envínate’s Palomino from Tenerife to accompany it. The kitchen then serves the main course: veal shank marinated for three hours and subsequently pan-fried, served with a carrot and razor clam escabeche, carrot top foam, and veal jus with roasted orange peel, spiced with chipotle. A masterpiece in miniature. Followed by an artistic creation of yogurt ice cream, loose seaweed, caramel, beetroot, a raspberry-rose-ginger vinaigrette, sweetened crème fraîche, and a sugar brittle. What a brilliant invention. It ranks at number 15.

The dining room is situated in the post-industrial, stylishly appointed basement adjacent to the open kitchen. On the ground floor, where the lounge is located, a chef’s table has now been added. The atmosphere is relaxed, and the service, overseen by the young yet highly skilled hostess Suzanne Lemmens, is warm and attentive. Chef-owner Adrian Zarzo Habraken continually surpasses himself in creativity. His Spanish roots remain evident in several dishes. Alongside our aperitif, five exquisite amuse-bouches arrive, including passion fruit ice cream with sugar snap peas, feta cheese, and hollandaise sauce with, yes indeed, a hint of coffee. Exciting textures and flavors, perfectly balanced. A promising start. We are certainly not disappointed, as Adrian has much more to offer. The menu provides ample choice, ranging from à la carte options to multi-course tasting menus. The wine list is impressive, featuring no fewer than over 2,500 selections, several of which have not yet been sampled and are listed as 'in cellar'. The langoustine tail with rhubarb, accompanied by a small fried squid, vadouvan sauce, and manzanilla sherry foam is, in a word, delicious. For the starters and intermezzos, sommelier Stefan Emmen, assisted by Merlijn van de Laar, recommends the white Rully 'Maizières' from producer Dureuil-Janthial. It is pure Burgundy, crisp and rich as the finest Puligny. His suggestion of Mencía from Ribeira Sacra in northwest Spain to accompany the lamb rack dish—served with its own jus, grilled little gem lettuce topped with Belper Knolle cheese, and a mushroom emulsion—is equally excellent. This dish delivers a beautiful interplay of flavors and textures and is flawlessly balanced. We can confidently state that Zarzo now ranks among the very highest echelons of national gastronomy. Rises to rank 14.

The hospitality empire of owner-chef Adrian Zarzo Habraken continues to expand steadily, but his flagship is restaurant Zarzo, located in the city center of Eindhoven since 2013. Born in Spain, Adrian’s passion for cooking was instilled in him from childhood, as his family ran a restaurant there. Once in the Netherlands, he gained experience after his training at establishments including Cees Helder (then Parkheuvel) and Jonnie Boer (De Librije). Zarzo’s culinary style is contemporary, pure, and elegant with Spanish influences. You will rarely encounter gimmicks such as mousses or gels on his plates. The refinement lies in a meticulously crafted balance of flavors and ingredients, while its bright acidity elevates the dishes to a higher plane. We enjoy our aperitif on the street-side terrace – a softly sparkling champagne from Patrick Regnault, Blanc de Blancs ‘5g’ NV (Mesnil-sur-Oger). Then, preceded by the charming maître Suzanne Lemmens, we descend a wide staircase and take our seats in the beautifully appointed industrial-style dining room with an open kitchen. The serene tranquility feels wonderfully relaxing. On the advice of the knowledgeable and talented sommelier Stefan Emmen (who possesses a remarkable gift for languages), we pair it with the Spanish white wine Improvisació by Enric Soler. Rich, intense, and packed with flavor, it is matched dish by dish with exquisitely composed creations. Al dente white asparagus is served with a warm Marigold egg yolk and crispy pata negra. Subtle yet bursting with flavor. Just like the tender cut of lamb loin beneath a foamy jus with lavash and crispy fresh peas. In the glass, a red Fazenda Agricola Pradio Mencia from 2019 (Ribera Sacra). Kudos to the impressive wine list where Adrian’s love for wine shines through in every facet. Deservedly rising to number 26.

Everything at Zarzo exudes a deep passion for the hospitality industry. The modern, atmospheric industrial interior, exquisite tableware, crystal-clear glasses, and polished cutlery set the stage. Yet above all, it is the refined, subtle, and innovative cuisine with exciting Spanish influences that stands out. So does the impressive wine list boasting over 2,000 selections, which has rightfully earned the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence multiple times. The driving force behind it all is owner Adrian Zarzo Habraken—always ambitious and relentlessly pursuing perfection. From the start, we are treated to beautiful and surprising compositions. The sweet potato taco with pecorino, goat cheese infused with fenugreek, pomelo, and preserved lemon whets the appetite for what follows. And we are thoroughly rewarded. In fact, the quality is so high it occasionally takes our breath away. The cherry gazpacho with feta, anchovies, and almonds is a stroke of genius from the chef. Sommelier Stefan Emmen pairs it with a generous pour of 2019 Riesling from Bernard Eifel. The intermezzo features North Sea crab with bisque foam, cucumber, crispy bacon lardons, and broad beans, presented with the delicacy of a small painting. The main course showcases lamb in its own jus, accompanied by a BBQ artichoke, a piquillo pepper-based antipasto, and a spinach roll stuffed with braised lamb stew. This is brought to perfection by the accompanying 2018 Mencía from Guímaro winery in Ribeira Sacra, Spain. Topped off with well-rehearsed and relaxed service, Zarzo firmly secures place 31 in this guide.

Born in Valencia, Adrian Zarzo has been running his restaurant Zarzo on Bleekweg in Eindhoven since 2013. Prior to this, he gained extensive experience at venues including Parkheuvel, De Librije – where he progressed from sous-chef to sommelier – and FG Restaurant. Hospitality is paramount here; the welcome from hostess Fleur van Antwerpen is exceptionally warm, and guests are personally escorted to the sleek and comfortably appointed lower level. Every table overlooks the open kitchen, where a large team works with intense focus and discipline. Owner Adrian oversees the final plating. To put it plainly: the cooking here operates at a high gastronomic standard. Every dish delivers exciting flavors and is presented flawlessly. Portions are generous. Adrian’s culinary style is innovative, and his Spanish heritage shines through in every bite. Adrian Zarzo: "At Zarzo, we serve contemporary cuisine, with occasional nods to classic Spanish cooking." You can also rely on Adrian’s expertise to pour some truly exceptional wines from a wine list featuring around 2,000 references. While everything appears effortlessly smooth and relaxed, it is backed by a meticulously refined vision. Good is never enough; the aim is always excellence. This pursuit demands relentless effort, carried out with visible passion. A top-class establishment!

It’s such a pleasure to set your own pace for a Sunday lunch at Adrian Zarzo Habraken. We arrive around half past twelve, and are greeted warmly. We are shown to the cozy yet elegantly designed basement, where we take our seats at a round wooden table overlooking the open kitchen. A well-equipped brigade works with focused intensity under the guidance of head chef Gijs van den Heuvel, while owner Adrian personally adds the finishing touches to each dish. We hit the ground running: cooking here is on a high level, and the Spanish-inspired dishes are, one after another, breathtakingly beautiful, intriguing in flavor, and generously portioned. Sommelier Ruben Kwakman soon pours us a sparkling Spanish cava, the MIM Natura Brut Reserva 2016 from Vins El Cep in Penedès, while hostess Fleur van Antwerpen presents a parade of amuse-bouches. The eel meringue, enhanced with notes of coffee and mustard, lingers pleasantly. The first course is a home run: super-fresh cubes of tuna, enriched with anchovy juice (colatura di alici) for a delicious umami depth, served atop a feta cream with quinoa and chicken skin crisps, alongside a Mexican pepper dip. It is paired with a juicy 2017 Solar de Serrade Vinho Verde from Portugal. What we’ll definitely return for tomorrow is the tender carabinero (red shrimp) with truffle and morels—a dish so delicious we nearly want to lick our plates clean. We continue with slow-cooked short rib served with shallots stuffed with olive coulis, accompanied by a pleasant 2015 Côtes du Rhône, Clos Saint Jean from France. It goes without saying: Zarzo earns its place in this guide’s Top 100 across the board, debuting at number 99.

Zarzo is situated on the edge of the city center and features a post-industrial interior; modern, quite sleek, and buzzing with a cozy atmosphere. The open kitchen is bustling with activity, and we are attended to by a warm and relaxed Black brigade. Adrian Zarzo is an unconventional chef, and this is evident in every aspect of his establishment. His cooking style is Spanish, but not the classical variety. What he plates is often innovative and sometimes even daring. He uses outstanding ingredients, avoids overcrowding dishes with too many different flavors, and creates thrilling combinations. The wine list is top-notch and clearly reflects Adrian’s passion. Well-known labels alternate with hidden gems, and the prices are fitting. Sommelier Ruben Kwakman’s recommendations are excellent. To start, mackerel with leek, olive sauce, and pieces of feta, served alongside potato croquettes. The fish is raw and lightly marinated. A beautifully harmonious dish, delicate in flavor. Next, leek with smoked lentils and feta. The lentils are intensely rich, as the subtle smokiness greatly amplifies their nutty character. The staff explains they were smoked using a so-called smoke gun. They paired excellently with the other components. In the glass, a Mas Jullien Blanc 2011, which displays an extraordinary expression. For the main course, entrecôte with artichoke and anchovy. The entrecôte is naturally full-flavored, further enhanced by a side sauce of beef and anchovy. The artichoke is braised, yielding a very pure taste. It’s a dish with serious impact, excellent in every way. The accompanying Cornas Domaine Vincent Paris 2013 harmonizes perfectly. The dessert consists of dollops of pure chocolate ice cream with physalis wrapped in egg white foam, alongside chocolate mousse with a corn crunch and dried fruit. Zarzo is a sure bet!