Codium

High quality cooking

From the moment you step inside until your departure, Codium immerses you in a world of extraordinarily beautiful flavors, explained by chef-owner Wouter Kik and his kitchen team. The presentations are impeccable, and so are the flavors. It begins with the amuse-bouches. The bite based on seaweed and algae, such as the velvety chawanmushi—a savory egg custard with broth made from smoked seaweed and salty herbs, thinly sliced spring onions, guindilla peppers, sprigs of Codium, and ceviche broth—is exciting, sophisticated, and packed with flavor. The super-fresh scallop, hand-dived off the Lofoten and baked until crisp on top, is served with an XO sauce of smoked oak moss and a sauerkraut foam. The non-alcoholic pairings are curated by sommelier Laura Stam. Her take on a Bloody Mary using tomato water, which captures the freshness without the sweetness and richness of tomato, enriched with tips of bruised tarragon leaves and alcohol-free gin, forms a perfect accompaniment to the hearty plaice. The fillet is briefly cured and then confited in olive oil. The gentle cooking yields a beautifully firm piece of fish. The accompaniment of green asparagus with jalapeño, a salad of raw razor clams with asparagus and tarragon, savory herb sauce and leek oil, finished with a foamy chamomile sauce and caviar, is of exceptional quality. Visually stunning is the dessert of pistachio ice cream on a pistachio cake, featuring green apple marinated in a lime fermentation, algae meringue, citrus gel, and salty herbs surrounded by sorrel sauce, algae, and apple. A fitting finale. Add to this exemplary service, a well-paced progression of courses, and excellent value for money. It secures a spot in this guide’s Top 100 at number 64.

At Codium in the center of Goes, we experience and savor passion and enthusiasm all over again each year. Chef Wouter Kik and host-sommelier Jean Luc Etienne make an ideal duo. Together with their kitchen brigade and service team, they turn e...

Codium, owned by chef Wouter Kik and host-sommelier Jean Luc Etienne and situated on a quiet square in Goes, is thriving and flourishing. Combined with their dedicated team, their enthusiasm and expertise truly shine through. Every bite hits the mark, and each dish features pure, complex flavors presented with fairytale beauty. This extends to the colors, textures, and seasonal selection of ingredients. It begins with the generous number of amuse-bouches that grace the table. Each one more photogenic and delicious than the last. Take, for instance, the seaweed crisps served with three distinct emulsions: one with jalapeño, one featuring seaweed, and another with briny herbs. Accompanied by puffed sea oak. Truly irresistible. The turbot starter is equally extraordinary. We are first shown the raw piece of fish before it’s cooked. It is then confited in olive oil and gently warmed in a water bath, allowing the aromas of thyme, rosemary, and garlic to fully infuse. By the time we’ve nearly forgotten about the fish amidst the other delightful starters, the turbot arrives resting on paper-thin ribbons of zucchini. The zucchini has been infused in basil oil. It is accompanied by refined garnishes of artichoke hearts and little gem lettuce. A basil emulsion ties everything together perfectly. Freshly baked and grilled focaccia is served alongside. And then, the dessert. An undeniable standout. Honey ice cream—crafted using honey from local beekeeper Manuel in Kapelle—is paired with crème pâtissière, honey cake, a honey tuile topped with honey gelée cubes dusted with edible gold leaf, and dollops of yuzu gel. Served with a honey 'broth' infused with mint and vanilla. Everything is artfully stacked into an edible masterpiece. Truly a celebration. This year, standing right on the threshold of the Top 100.

Codium, a type of seaweed, serves as a symbol for chef Wouter Kik and maître/sommelier Jean-Luc Etienne, representing local, fresh produce and the scent of the sea. It is therefore no surprise that fish, crustaceans, and shellfish play a defining role in this charming restaurant in the heart of Goes. Born in Bruinisse and formerly of De Kromme Watergang in Hoofdplaat, Wouter champions a light and refined cuisine characterized by bright acidity, vibrant colors, and depth. To complement this, Jean-Luc, who honed his craft at Parkheuvel in Rotterdam, lovingly and skillfully curates matching wines. They opened their establishment in 2019, and it has certainly been a great success. Diners from both home and abroad have long since found their way to Goes. Wouter frequently employs fermentation and pickled vegetables, and colorful jars filled with various delicacies line the counter in the restaurant. A delightful starter presents an oyster with pearls of radish, cucumber, and apple in a sorrel broth, codium oil, and yuzu gel. Pre-pickled and lightly smoked mackerel, served with horseradish cream and a red curry ceviche. Presented colorfully with sweet-and-sour onion, pickled radish, purple and red edible flowers, herbs, and a touch of popped millet. This is followed by briefly steamed and smoked cod atop a salad of sweet-and-sour shallots, garden peas, anchovies, and toasted pine nuts, accompanied by a frothy elderflower sauce. Served alongside is popped cod skin with a lavender emulsion, finished with herbs from their own garden. What complex, beautifully developed salty, subtly sweet, and herbaceous flavor notes. Jean-Luc pairs this with a beautifully complementary, fresh Alvarinho Solar de Serrade, a Vinho Verde aged in oak barrels, which yields slightly softer acidity. The playful dessert features a 'little sheep' made of blancmange and fresh lemon gel, wrapped in pashmak (Iranian cotton candy), along with a 'snout' of sorbet ice cream made from sheep yogurt. Deliciously refreshing and simply delightful.

There are restaurants where you are consistently surprised with unique creations and flavors on every visit. Restaurant Codium in the center of Goes is one such place. From the very start of his career, Chef Wouter Kik has captivated guests time and again with his enthusiasm and deep knowledge of ingredients. The keen nose (and palate) of host-sommelier Jean-Luc Etienne crafts a perfect wine pairing for each dish. Together, they form an outstanding duo. The entire team draws you into their enthusiasm. Everyone in the kitchen gets a chance to present a dish. Some are more articulate than others, but what truly leaps off the plate is their passion. You can taste that same dedication in the dishes Wouter creates. We are delighted by the starter featuring red mullet caught using the traditional fly-fishing method. Resting on a bed of fried watermelon is a butter-fried mullet fillet topped with deep-fried, paper-thin, crispy fish scales that lend the dish a translucent golden glow. It is accompanied by a vinaigrette made with lavender vinegar and sage, garlic, a spicy tomato compote, and a foamy anchovy sauce. Every bite is fantastic. Paired with it is a beautifully complementary 2021 Attis Albariño Lias Finas. Another highlight is the dessert of rhubarb compote with orange blossom, delightfully sticky rhubarb Turkish delight cubes, rhubarb foam with sumac, and finished with rhubarb sorbet. Bravo!

Wouter Kik and Jean Luc Etienne have created a modern atmosphere in the heart of Goes, where the senses are stimulated by an international cuisine prepared with rich produce from the Zeeland province. Chef Wouter focuses on fermentation and pickling. Tangy additions are incorporated into the dishes from large jars of pickles and ferments that sit proudly on the kitchen counter. We are immersed in a parade of amuse-bouches and quickly discover that additional intermezzos and dessert amuse-bouches arrive at the table, none of which appear on the menu. We enjoy a dish of charcoal-grilled vegetables with a mushroom reduction sauce. The subsequent cod course leaves us utterly delighted. The fish is first steamed over a court-bouillon infused with green tea, ginger, and lemongrass, then briefly seared. The accompanying pale green, frothy green curry sauce is delicious, and the puffed belly skin of the cod is delightfully crunchy. Head waiter and skilled sommelier Jean Luc serves seasonal wines, such as a refreshing Xión Albariño from Rías Baixas, Spain, by Attis Bodegas y Viñedos, paired with the starter of intensely flavorful brown crab, prawn, and ceviche. What a harmonious combination! Flowers, herbs, and vegetables from Dieneke Klompe’s nursery feature in every dish. So far, it’s all praise. Minor points of concern are the per-glass wine prices, which are quite steep. It’s also somewhat exhausting to have a different server attend to your table with every course throughout the evening. A touch more consistency and calm would be welcome.

Let's get straight to the point: what excellent cooking is happening here! Refined, sophisticated, beautiful bitters, soft acidity, fresh, earthy, creamy, crisp. All senses are stimulated. The man behind all this beauty is the young and talented co-owner and head chef Wouter Kik. He previously worked at establishments including Vluchthaven and Inter Scaldes, and in recent years as head chef at De Kromme Watergang. And now there is Codium, where everything comes together. Over time, Wouter developed his own modern and fresh cooking style, blending Zeeland aromas and flavors with international influences. Jan Luc Etienne is the other owner, and this skilled master sommelier earned his stripes at places like FG Restaurant and Parkheuvel in Rotterdam. Jan Luc Etienne: "After overcoming the shock of closing down so suddenly, we first sought some calm. After four weeks, we started again with creating dishes, teaching each other techniques, and strengthening our team spirit." When crafting wine and food pairings, Etienne's focus is primarily on authenticity, respect for nature, and good value for money. Kik and Etienne wanted to collaborate, and this light, stylish, and surprising restaurant in the heart of Goes is the result. Codium is a type of seaweed, and the restaurant's name symbolizes the local and fresh produce used. A top establishment!

Wouter Kik and Jean Luc Etienne, respectively chef and host/sommelier, have settled in Goes. Kik comes from De Kromme Watergang in Hoofdplaat, and Etienne was restaurant manager and sommelier at Parkheuvel in Rotterdam. Both wanted to work together, but in their own restaurant. Well, Codium is the result, and let's get straight to the point: what a brilliant move! In this establishment, light, stylish, and surprisingly designed by Anouk van der Sande, truly sublime cooking takes place using primarily Zeeland products. Wonderful wines are poured alongside them. The amuse-bouche of salty beetroot purée, with buttermilk and green apple sorbet—a signature dish by Wouter—sets the tone right away. Full, fresh, and crisp are the key words. The first course is 'tomato salad' and features various preparations of colored cherry tomatoes such as mousse, purée, slices, and rings, accompanied by goat cheese balls that are poured tableside with tomato broth and garnished with verbena and marigolds from Dineke Klompe's garden. The presentation on a glass plate resembling frozen ice is truly stunning. We continue with perfectly cooked halibut from the water grill on onion purée with lapsang souchong, grilled onion rings and silver onions covered with various seaweeds. We nearly fall out of our tub chairs, so delicious and refined. In the glass, a slightly chilled, elegant red Cembra, Cantina di Montagna Schiava Trentino DOC. A true feast for the taste buds. For dessert, we receive 'flowers'. On an incredibly beautiful white porcelain plate with gold and beige details, there is a combination of sweet melon, sorbet with nut brittle, elderflower jus, and vanilla cream. Garnished with a riot of colors of edible flowers and herbs such as rose petals, violets, marigold, borage, geranium, jasmine, dahlia, fuchsia, and verbena. We say: welcome to Lekker! On the threshold of the Top 100.