Lekker500 — Top 500
The tables with white linen are generously spaced on a light wood floor, and the walls are painted ox-blood red. At Blumé, modern French cuisine is served: seasonal, (almost) everything homemade, ingredients sourced from the surrounding area, and served in true Groningen fashion—without any fuss. There is no à la carte option, only a compact menu offering 3, 5, 6, or 7 courses. Nor is there a wine list tonight; it is currently 'under construction'. Sommelier Allard Riedstra, who joined earlier this year, makes up for its absence by thoroughly asking about our preferences and brings three bottles that he unhurriedly and passionately explains. We opt for the biodynamic Burgundy Aligoté from Domaine Goisot, which features notes of pear and nuts—delicious. Three house-made amuse-bouches arrive, including crispy rice krupuk paired with a refreshing sorbet of wasabi, avocado, and cucumber. This is followed by exceptionally fresh raw mackerel marinated in oil, salt, and lemon, accompanied by nasturtium, cucumber, radish, shiso, and an airy dill and buttermilk foam. Next comes another straightforward dish: thick pieces of North Sea plaice poached and topped with carrot, ginger, and a delightful pairing of perfectly executed hollandaise sauce and a shellfish sauce. The dishes are served alternately by the white and black brigades, both bringing equal passion to their roles. Chef-owner Henrice Dijks, formerly of Librije and Onder de Linden in Aduard, enthusiastically presents a dish centered on beetroot: cooked on the barbecue, served with granola made from puffed rice, and once again featuring a beautiful sauce combination: beet jus and a jus infused with the Japanese seasoning miso. We have to wait a while for the main course, but it is well worth it: thirteen-hour confit Dutch lamb, melt-in-your-mouth tender with a lovely coarse texture. The tarragon in the jus is subtly present and complements the other garnishes perfectly: eggplant cream, early new potatoes, chanterelles, and a crispy Indian pani puri with celery root brunoise. Together, the team at Blumé delivers a wonderful evening of fine dining.