Cheval Blanc

Located in Heemstede on a bustling shopping street is restaurant Cheval Blanc, featuring a classic-modern interior. We opt for a table on the terrace, which is atmospherically shaded by a large parasol and warmed by discreet heating elements. Later, candlelight and small lamps create an intimate atmosphere. Inside, light wooden floors are prominent, along with tables dressed in white linen and framed photographs on the walls. The kitchen follows a French style with international influences, placing seasonal produce at its core. Guests can choose between a four- to seven-course Deschamps menu with a customizable wine pairing, or order à la carte. We begin with a glass of Crémant Krier Rosé from Luxembourg. The accompanying paper-thin slices of Iberico ham are impressively flavorful. For an amuse, we receive a refined cauliflower salad with vadouvan spice and duck liver mousse. Next come the starters: ceviche-style marinated sea bass served with wild prawn crisps and Taiwanese black bean foam. A beautiful composition, paired with a refreshing Cheverny 2023. The Brabant asparagus with mashed doré potatoes, yuzu kosho, and tarragon beurre blanc prove just as convincing, complemented by an elegant Schoffit Pinot Blanc 2023. Among the mains, the perfectly cooked scallops with guanciale and Jerusalem artichoke cream stand out, though the two-piece portion feels somewhat modest. This is followed by braised Iberico cheek served with Manchego tortellini, beetroot, and a robust sumac jus enriched with crispy fried duck liver. Paired with a glass of Ébano Ribera del Duero 2021, this dish is a true highlight. We finish with a rich but slightly overly sweet lemon tartlet served with pandan cream ice cream and coconut. Service is overseen by owner and sommelier Ton Nelissen. He is friendly and experienced, though there is one point of criticism: wines sometimes arrive late or are served without explanation. Cheval Blanc delivers an atmospheric evening featuring a strong kitchen and excellent wines. Unfortunately, minor service missteps indicate that there is still room for improvement before reaching the absolute pinnacle.

Owner and host Ton Nelissen has long guaranteed an evening of fine dining in a relaxed atmosphere, and on a culinary level, chef Huub van der Velden brings his all to it. The dining room is elegantly appointed, with large bouquets of fresh flowers elevating the ambiance. A fixed menu titled 'Deschamps' offers four courses, extendable to seven, accompanied by matching wine pairings available by full, half, or even one-third glass. We start with two preparations of kingfish—sashimi and rillette—served with creamy avocado ice cream, sesame crackers, and fresh watermelon. The plate delivers a harmonious balance of sour, sweet, soft, and crunchy textures. An elegant beginning. In the glass, a bright and fruity Pfaffl Wien 1, a blend of Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, and Pinot Blanc. The vegetarian course features roasted pepper mousse with eggplant mousse, beet cubes, and aged feta. Delicious, though it could use a bit more bite. The main course showcases veal loin with chanterelles, artichoke, sweetbread, and fried duck liver as a supplement. The meat is cooked to perfection and the veal jus is exquisite, which we wipe up to the last drop with the complimentary crispy bread served at the table. A superior wine is poured alongside it; the 2018 Monte Acuro Rioja Reserva perfectly complements the dish. A welcoming spot that makes you want to return time and again. Last year it stood on the threshold of the Top 100, this year it just misses the cut.

Cheval Blanc has enjoyed a fine reputation in Heemstede for years and has been a regular feature in this guide for just as long. The spacious dining room offers comfortable seating at tables carefully dressed in linen. Large black-and-white photographs of international celebrities grace the walls. Owner and host Ton Nelissen is unmatched in his craft and ensures the evening runs flawlessly. We opt for the 'Deschamps' menu, where head chef Huub van der Velden serves a surprisingly seasonal market menu. His creative approach to ingredients becomes apparent very quickly. The inventive chickpea taco amuse with a red cabbage salad, tuna, carrot, tamarillo, and herring roe blows us away right from the start. This is quickly followed by the first course. Two preparations of Zeeland kingfish: brilliantly fresh sashimi and a spicy ceviche, alongside a mildly sweet mousse and a North Sea crab wonton served with endive salad, anchovy mayonnaise, and shaved pecorino. Exciting, well-balanced, with perfectly harmonized flavors. Next, beautifully presented lightly cooked and seared pike-perch with a fish stick and flat-leaf parsley, marinated beetroot tartare, wild spinach cream, and a lightly tangy sauce based on Pinot Blanc. Ton pairs it with an aromatic Vignoble des 2 Lunes Pinot Blanc made from hand-harvested grapes. The pacing of service is pleasant, the wines—which are also available in the adjacent wine shop—have been carefully selected, and the price-to-quality ratio is exemplary.

In a charming shopping street in the heart of Heemstede, this highly praised restaurant has been operating for over 25 years under owner-maitre Ton Nelissen. On the evening of our visit, he was not present himself, but we noticed nothing of it; his black brigade is young yet highly skilled, competent, and friendly. And thoroughly knowledgeable about wine and food pairings. We begin with a pleasant welcome sparkling wine, part of the Menu Deschamps Complete. Water and crisp fresh bread with accompaniments are also included. Chef Huub van der Velden and his team prepare a creative, surprising cuisine using seasonal ingredients, which becomes immediately apparent. Classics with their own twist. As an amuse-bouche: sushi made of mackerel, tuna, and cabbage. A beautiful start: salty, fresh, soft, and crispy all at once. For the starter: steak tartare in crispy cups with delicious grilled artichoke hearts. A lovely pairing with a dry German wine, the Pinot Gris MC edition by Zehe-Claus from Mainz, Rheinhessen. Next comes a perfectly pan-fried sole fillet with roasted gambas cream, crispy Zeeland sea beans, and an al dente summer beet with a lukewarm langoustine dressing. The pièce de résistance is a generous slice of duck breast tenderloin, served alongside a chickpea taco with butter-soft duck confit, mango salsa, shredded Savoy cabbage, and a jus made from Piave cheese. Absolutely delicious, especially when paired with the slightly chilled Valpolicella Case Vecie 2018 by Brigaldara from Veneto, Italy. With the coffee come three friandises from their own kitchen: a bokkenpootje, a warm canapé with the sweet bitterness of mandarin zest, and a tonka bean bonbon. Beautiful and delicious!

For over twenty years, a reliable address in Kennemerland: this warm, living-room-style restaurant in Heemstede, owned by Ton Nelissen. The interior is predominantly white; walls, ceilings, pillars, cutlery and crockery cabinets, and tables dressed with linen tablecloths. Except for the piano, which is jet black. The atmosphere is cozy, slightly chic, but not overly so. Nelissen, originally from Haarlem, took over the premises in 1996, appointed his neighborhood and school friend Huub van der Velden as head chef, and has been captivating a broad regional audience ever since with his warm hospitality, excellent wines, and a menu full of contemporary classics featuring predominantly local, seasonal, and top-quality ingredients. Take the mackerel, for instance. A beautifully seared fillet served with creamy rillette, accompanied by a well-balanced side of artichoke, hazelnut, cauliflower, lemon curd, and miso. Just as delicious are the main courses. Thin, tender slices of duck breast and confit meat in a robust laurel jus, served alongside garden beans, beetroot, and crispy potatoes. On the other plate, succulent monkfish. Roasted and wrapped in Montanaro salami, resting on fennel with ratatouille empanadas, and drizzled with an intensely spiced fenugreek sauce. Pairs excellently with glasses of aromatic 'Greco di Tufo' (I Capitani). We conclude this dining feast with fresh coffee and an array of delightful homemade pastries. Simply delicious!

Still going strong. Since 1996, Cheval Blanc has been a beloved restaurant in Heemstede, situated right on the border with Haarlem. This elegant living-room-style restaurant, featuring a long room and a suite with a light classic interior, has many regular guests. That success is due not only to the high-quality culinary work of head chef Huub van der Velden, but also to the exceptional hospitality of maître d'hôtel and owner Ton Nelissen. With his genuinely warm service, he guarantees a top-tier evening of dining pleasure. The menu is explained in detail, and nothing escapes his practiced eye. Huub cooks with remarkable balance; every dish achieves perfect flavor harmony and is presented so beautifully it looks like a little painting. The wine list deserves special mention. Alongside each wine's name, the grape variety is indicated, the winery is named, and a short tasting note accompanies every selection. Ton is also happy to share his knowledge, if you wish. A truly delightful dining spot!

A reliable dining destination, situated in an elongated room and suite, with white as the dominant color without the atmosphere feeling sterile, making it an ideal spot for a pleasant evening. Virtually no imperfections were present during our visit. Ton Nelissen is an excellent host; old-fashioned in the best sense of the word, providing a thorough walkthrough of the menu. The friendly hostesses offer expert guidance on the wines and dishes. And we have not yet mentioned the excellently prepared and beautifully presented plates by head chef Huub van der Velden. The starter is Zeeland kingfish in two preparations – ceviche and pickled – served with delicious fried wild prawns, celery root gratin, an orange-hued filet américain made from winter carrot, and two slightly sweet crisps made with black and white sesame. It offers a beautiful palette of savory, fresh, and sweet notes, along with a pleasing variety of textures. The cod loin is also perfectly executed, accompanied by a rich and harmonious garnish of potato, smoked Oosterschelde eel, Dutch shrimp, and bundle mushrooms. We challenged Nelissen to suggest a fitting red wine, and he handled it effortlessly: the blend of Grenache, Shiraz, Mataro, and Carignan from the Australian winery Rolf Binder pairs seamlessly.

Owner Ton Nelissen’s hospitality shines through in his generous approach to service, paired with extensive wine knowledge. Nor is the craftsmanship of head chef Huub van der Velden to be overlooked. We can taste outstanding class in his creations. It feels wonderfully comfortable in this meticulously styled living-room-style restaurant, which is packed. Following a delicious and surprising mousse of white chocolate, parsnip, fermented Chinese cabbage, and anchovy crisps, he serves pickled salmon with asparagus. A delightful starter: the fish lightly grilled, the asparagus marinated, accompanied by fenugreek and amandine potatoes. Alongside a tom kha kai bonbon infused with lemongrass, ginger, and horseradish. Ton pairs it with a 2016 Pinot Blanc from Léon Beyer, vinified to be drier than most other Alsatian wines, making it not only flavorful but notably refreshing. Her companion orders cod slow-cooked at low temperature, served with tomato, beetroot elements, gamba prawns, lamb ears, and beurre blanc. The 2016 white Vergel, a blend of Airén and Sauvignon grapes from Alicante, is a perfect match. The main course features grilled Aberdeen Angus entrecôte served with a potato donut, pea bonbon, kohlrabi, grilled celeriac, and a red wine sauce. This pairs excellently with the ruby-red 2016 Barbera Negretti. For dessert, a surprising take on the classic Strawberries Romanoff arrives: strawberry meringue, a white chocolate bonbon filled with strawberry, honey ice cream, and a sauce of vodka and crème de cassis. Accompanied by a lightly sparkling wine from Anjou made from Cabernet Franc and Grenache. Unfortunately, a few flaws prevent this restaurant from making the Top 100.

The interior is modern, albeit with a few kitschy trinkets. The atmosphere during our visit was rather stiff; the waitstaff do their best, but host Ton Nelissen wanders around somewhat aimlessly. Chef Huub van der Velden is the true star; his dishes are excellent. He cooks in a modern style rooted in French classical tradition, opening with a salmon tataki and salmon tartare set in a winter carrot gelée with fresh ginger, Forono beet, dill mayonnaise, and crispy mustard seeds. A great Japanese touch. One of the servers pours a white Vergel, a blend of Sauvignon and the native Spanish grape Airén. Remarkable and refreshing. Next come confited cod fillets paired with a pan-fried scallop, savory potato cream, fried capers, and beurre blanc. A rich dish featuring gently cooked fish, also beautifully presented. Rather stingy is the fact that the scallop must be shared with your dining companion: each person gets only half. In the glass, a classic Viognier from the Languedoc. Monkfish takes center stage as the main course. Slow-cooked in olive oil and then grilled. Served with a celeriac cannelloni and fennel salami, roasted pepper cream, smoked almond, and a 'paper' made from truffle potato and fennel seed. Unexpected and delightful. The wine: Vignobles des 2 Lunes, a blend of six grape varieties from Alsace. Complex yet refreshing. On the next plate, glazed veal shank with celeriac and leek bonbons, Cevennes onion, potato donuts, and crisp endives. Super-tender meat accompanied by a delicious bay leaf jus. In the glass: Füsser Spätburgunder. To finish, a bitter almond parfait with crème brûlée, spheres of stewed pear, buttermilk ice cream, crunchy bitter almond cakes, homemade toffee, and drops of dark chocolate. Cheval Blanc remains solidly rated at 96.