De Bokkedoorns

De Bokkedoorns, beautifully hidden in the dunes near Haarlem, has a tradition of French haute cuisine that is upheld by owner Pascal Beeren and chef Roy Eijkelkamp. Every now and then, the chef adds Asian influences to a...

Excellent cooking

Pascal Beeren has now been the owner of this widely respected family business for several years, following in the footsteps of his father John, who elevated Dutch gastronomy to new heights. Under Pascal’s inspired leadership as maître d', that exceptional quality remains palpable and evident in every aspect of the experience. From the warm, expert service to the fine-dining creations that Chef Roy Eijkelkamp has put his name to. Guests are comfortably seated in the elegantly appointed dining room, which offers views of the surrounding nature. Nestled in the dunes beside a tranquil lake, De Bokkedoorns is situated well away from the hustle and bustle of the Randstad metropolitan area. The menu features international à la carte selections alongside set tasting menus. The wine list leans heavily toward premium-priced selections, with French labels making up the vast majority. Only a limited selection is available by the glass. Paired with a 2022 Mâcon-Chardonnay from Clos de la Crochette, we are treated to luxurious amuse-bouches such as a beetroot and brisket taco, a truffle mousse tartlet, and a jasmine foam accompanied by scallop and sweet-and-sour cucumber. We begin with succulently prepared lobster, served alongside a refined endive salad and dressing, pata negra ham, and a poached quail egg. An absolute winner. Just like the accompanying 2023 Condrieu La Petite Côte from Yves Cuilleron in Chavanay. Maître and sommelier Barry Kleijne clearly knows what he is doing. This is followed by a goose liver terrine infused with dark chocolate, served on cornbread with sweet-and-sour corn and poultry jelly. A sumptuous dish characterized by soft, sweet notes. The monkfish arrives seared, accompanied by roasted langoustine and a delicate parcel filled with radish, bimi broccoli, crispy chicken skin, and a luscious dashi-infused jus. De Bokkedoorns truly impresses with its rich, refined cuisine. A perfect 20.

For decades, De Bokkedoorns has been a fixture in the Dutch restaurant elite. Current owner Pascal Beeren took over the establishment a few years ago from his father John, who in turn inherited it from his own father. Admittedly, not everything that leaves the kitchen of head chef Roy Eijkelkamp is equally spectacular. We occasionally miss a touch of excitement, but that does not diminish the fact that Eijkelkamp and his brigade cook at a consistently high level. The main courses are the highlight: mushroom duxelle with yellow forest carrot and bubu arare – puffed Japanese mini rice – braised morels, and a wild mushroom croquette. Another standout dish is a fantastic triptych of veal escalope: prepared as a rouleau, glazed with an Asian sauce alongside button mushrooms and crispy-fried, framed by a salad of mushrooms with pak choi and crispy spring onions. Since this year, service has been managed by a new duo: Tim Dorissen, who has been with the restaurant for twelve years, is the new maître, and Barry Kleijne has joined as maître-sommelier. They have succeeded Niels van Overmeire. The quality of the front-of-house team has suffered none from this transition: the hosts and hostesses are attentive, highly skilled – anyone we ask for an explanation receives one delivered with flair – and relaxed. Here too, tradition – exemplary hospitality – is seamlessly blended with what a 2024 diner expects: a pleasant conversation and the occasional witty remark. We do have a few minor criticisms. For instance, our preference for a four-course menu was not fully grasped: unintentionally and unexpectedly, we ended up enjoying five courses. It would also be preferable to ask whether we would like a dessert wine before the dessert arrives. And only upon departure did we spot the cheese trolley: we would have preferred if the staff had brought it to our table so we could have selected our own choices from the generously stocked cart. Yet these are merely minor blemishes on otherwise excellent hospitality. Finally: dining in this modern-chic ambiance is and remains a delight. And in good weather, the terrace, which overlooks a small lake and a dune hollow, and is shaded by foliage, parasols, and sun blinds, is an absolute must. Ranked number 25 this year.

A permanent fixture in this guide's columns. Meanwhile, Pascal, third-generation Beeren, now runs this fine restaurant with great flair as owner and host. And we can safely call it De Bokkedoorns 3.0, featuring a completely renovated and modern interior, a young service team dressed in consistent, elegant attire under the direction of maître and sommelier Niels van Overmeire, and last but not least: a high-caliber gastronomic kitchen led by executive chef Roy Eijkelkamp. The entrance door swings open and we are warmly welcomed by Pascal, who leads us to our table. The view through the glass wall onto the lake at Wethouder van Gelukpark and the rugged dune landscapes remains breathtakingly beautiful. For an aperitif, a white Prunotto Langhe Arneis 2022 from Piedmont. A soft white wine with fresh citrus notes. Accompanied by luxurious amuse-bouches such as lobster mousse with caviar and steak tartare on thin toasted bread with tomato and Italian herbs. The menu offers a choice of starters, mains, and desserts that can be combined into a multi-course menu, starting from two guests. That is very guest-friendly. The wine list sits in the upper price segment, but wines are also available by the glass. The ceviche of raw sea bass is sliced paper-thin and served with a Colatura di Alici cream and passion fruit vinaigrette, topped with a generous dollop of caviar. Masterful. The foie gras is pan-seared on strudel dough with a carrot salad, alongside a foie gras terrine with seaweed and carrot jus. We dip it until the last drop. The turbot is perfectly grilled and accompanied by various cauliflower preparations—boiled, grilled, and sautéed. Served with crispy sprat and sherry foam. We conclude with roasted strawberry compote with balsamic vinegar, nougat, strawberry broth, and a strawberry-lemon thyme sorbet. All excellent. Just like the warm and pleasant service, which operates in a relaxed yet highly professional manner. De Bokkedoorns climbs one spot to number 23.

A visit to De Bokkedoorns remains a special experience. The location is idyllic, situated in a beautiful dune area. From the completely renovated interior, you have an incredible view of nature through the large window panels. Pascal Beeren is the third generation to be at the helm as host and co-owner. Together with head chef Roy Eijkelkamp and maître Niels van Overmeire, he ensures a relaxed stay and a kitchen operating at a high gastronomic level. The welcome is informal, and we are shown to our table. Soon, delightful palate starters arrive, such as a mini comté cake, a crispy seaweed cup filled with sushi rice and lacquered mackerel, and a foie gras bonbon with red fruit jelly. The tone is set. North Sea crab is served with apple tartare, a citrus crisp, slices of Dutch asparagus, pea cream, and mint. Surrounded by a clear asparagus jus, finished with Imperial caviar. Feather-light on the palate, with a delicate interplay of salty, sweet, and bitter notes. Paired with a refined Turbiana Veneto Lugana Mandolara Le Morette 2021. The langoustine is roasted and beautifully plated with puffed celeriac, lamb ears, and a Bloemendaalse cabbage crisp, accompanied by a sauce made from celeriac and langoustine shells. The highlight of the dinner is Kamper lamb. The lamb saddle is juicy roasted, served with various artichoke preparations, sherry gel, and a masterful lamb jus. Accompanied by a piece of crispy lamb belly bacon. We enjoy a generous glass of another Italian wine, the Molise Ramitello Di Majo Norante 2016. We are slightly less enthusiastic about the dessert featuring various raspberry textures, such as mousse, jelly, marinated raspberries with hangop, and goat yogurt ice cream. The latter is somewhat watery and too cold. With coffee, we indulge in almond curls with cardamom cream. It scores 24 this year.

Pascal, from the third generation of the Beeren family, is now at the helm of this charming restaurant, located in a beautiful dune area. Together with head chef Roy Eijkelkamp and the new master sommelier Niels van Overmeire, he forms a strong and highly skilled team. De Bokkedoorns now features an entirely new and atmospheric interior with a modern yet classic look, adapted to the natural surroundings. After a warm welcome from Pascal, we are served a glass of Blanc de Blancs from house Michel Genet as an aperitif. Accompanying it are beautifully presented amuse-bouches such as smoked eel on a bed of mascarpone with orange broth. The menu changes regularly with the seasons, and the extensive wine list features both classics and modern estates, many of which are available by the glass. For the starter, poached lobster in a tomato and pomegranate broth, with sun-dried tomato and a smoked mozzarella cream. A fantastic start. The main course is exquisitely rose-roasted lamb in its own rich jus, served with crispy polenta, sweet and sour peppers, and a smoked paprika cream. Applause for the dessert: pandan leaf mousse with a rice roll, fried banana, and a scoop of lime leaf ice cream. Fresh and surprisingly flavorful. The cheese board offers varieties that build in intensity and are served at precisely the right temperature. It’s good, it’s lovely in the dune landscape of Bloemendaal.

Restaurant De Bokkedoorns has long been a staple in this guide. This recently fully renovated top restaurant is located just a stone's throw from Haarlem and Amsterdam, nestled in the heart of a unique dune area. The view over a stunning dune lake is unforgettable. The third generation of the Beeren family is now at the culinary helm, and Pascal has served as the restaurant's host and owner since 2016. Nicknamed 'De Bok' by insiders, it delivers top-tier quality in every respect. Kudos to SVH Master Host and sommelier Peter Bruins, who has consistently delivered his best since 1979, providing exceptional hospitality alongside deep wine expertise. Applause is also due to culinary talent Roy Eijkelkamp, who has been with the Beeren family for a decade and has led the kitchen brigade as head chef since 2018. Regarding the cuisine, we can be brief: every dish is delightful, sophisticated, refined, and flawlessly balanced in flavor. Pure craftsmanship. A separate room is available for both corporate and celebratory events. And, another bonus: ample free parking is available on site.

A visit to De Bokkedoorns is worthwhile all on its own for the stunning view of the beautiful dune lake. But that would undersell the culinary talent of head chef Roy Eijkelkamp. For the beautifully balanced dishes he and his team prepare in the kitchen of 'De Bok' are truly remarkable. With Pascal stepping in as host-owner in 2016, the third generation of the Beeren family is now at the helm. He escorts us to a neatly set table this evening, fills our glasses with crisp Cape Chardonnay (Wetshof), and has appetizers brought out, such as a cylinder of beetroot with chicken liver and eel, gazpacho ice cream on a pesto and basil crumble, and potato mousse with truffle, morels, and caviar. A delicious start. Alongside à la carte dishes, there are also several tasting menus to choose from. SVH Master Host and sommelier Peter Bruins, who will gladly remain associated with the restaurant for a few more years, serves a lovely 2015 Loch Riesling from Herrenberg winery alongside the starter of finely chopped langoustine tartare topped with finely diced green apple, a paper-thin citrus crisp, and a generous dollop of Imperial caviar. At the table, an aromatic, lightly browned broth is poured over it. A true refinement of flavors and textures. We follow with grilled red mullet, served with a quenelle of pine cone cream, a dark green aromatic coulis of wild garlic and apricot, and enriched with a tandoori spice beurre blanc so delicious that we empty the entire small jug. On a previous visit, we savored calf kidneys. The organ meat is pan-fried in butter and cooked to perfection, served over anise mushrooms, pearl onions, crispy bacon, and mustard sauce. This is top-tier craftsmanship. It firmly scores a 14.

Roy Eijkelkamp is de chef-kok geworden nadat zijn leermeester Menno Post vertrok. Goede keus van John (vader) en Pascal (zoon) Beeren wier familie dit prachtige restaurant al drie generaties beheert. Eijkelkamp werkte vijf jaar onder Lucas Rive en vijf onder Post, zodat hij het klappen van de Bokkedoorns-zweep kent. Zijn kookstijl is duidelijk door beide keukenmeesters beïnvloed maar hij geeft ook een eigen signatuur af. Zoals met de heerlijke amuse van ganzenlevercremeux met bloedsinaasappel en krokant van schorseneer. Een schoonheid van gedoseerde aardse smaken en texturen. SVH Meestergastheer en sommelier Peter Bruins schenkt Mâcon Péronne La Tour Penet, 2017, een bourgogne met een bittertje. En later stappen we over op heerlijke Jurançon van Cauhapé. Vooraf noordzeekrab, geplukt en in een ronde vorm op het bord gelegd. In het midden een Zeeuwse platte oester, eromheen radijsvarianten. De chef schenkt er aan tafel bouillon van bleekselderij overheen. Het andere voorgerecht is gerookte paling, opgediend met mango, gebrande bimi, lavasolie en kokosvinaigrette. Verfijnde schotels. De kabeljauw in de volgende gang is perfect geroosterd en komt met rode garnaal, spinazie, merg en mooi boterige beurre blanc. Het andere pièce is kalfszwezerik met een krokant randje, gebakken met boemboe bali, bospeen en jus van citroengras. Er wordt lichtrode Italiaanse Il Tordo bij geschonken van voornamelijk nebbiolodruiven La Torretta 2015. Tot slot een bordje geselecteerde kazen, goed op temperatuur. De Bokkedoorns is nog steeds een topzaak met bekwaam en gedisciplineerd personeel. Het interieur van het restaurant staat een renovatie te wachten. Dat juichen wij toe. Door een aantal minpuntjes en grote verschuivingen aan de top zakt De Bokkedoorns enkele plaatsen naar 14.