Hokkai Kitchen

In the heart of the IJmuiden harbor, Hokkai Kitchen brings a piece of Japan to the sea. Everything here revolves around pure flavors, fresh fish, and respect for tradition. The atmosphere is simple and relaxed, with all attention focused on the plate. What ooi...

After a short trip through the harbor area of IJmuiden, we arrive at the restaurant of Marinus Noordenbos and his Japanese wife, Yukiko. Amidst the rugged surroundings of port businesses and fishermen, Hokkai Kitchen occupies the old filleting room next to his fish processing plant. Officially appointed as a 'culinary ambassador' by the Japanese Ministry, Marinus and head chef Kuniyoshi Othowara (formerly of Okura) have firmly established themselves on the map within the Japanese culinary world. The interior is simply furnished, featuring a spacious, open kitchen where we can watch five chefs working with intense focus. It is a constant stream of visitors here, all enthusiasts of Japanese cuisine and rock-fresh fish. We start with a modest portion of rock-fresh oysters cooked in warm miso with scallions. Next comes Hokkai's specialty: pickled and grilled horse mackerel, served with green pepper and lemon. Perfectly cooked and partially filleted, we indulge in this beautiful fish, which boasts a refined texture. On the advice of host Menno Tol, we then opt for two 'sets'. The sashimi consists of a selection of everything the sea has to offer: lean tuna, super-fresh salmon, kingfish, scallops, and mackerel. So tender you could almost suck them, and fresher than fresh. The platter featuring various preparations of tuna is equally impressive. The sushi maki, made with slightly warm rice and a generous tuna filling, along with nigiri featuring maguro (the lean part of the fish), semi-toro, and toro (the fattier, softer belly section), are all a success. To finish off, we have gunkan topped with tuna tartare, scallions, and a lightly spicy kick. The Portuguese Ode Viognier shines alongside the raw fish and adds to the festive atmosphere. After coffee, we are politely reminded that there is a closing time, and the next guests are already waiting. Booking in advance is therefore an absolute must.

At first, we think we've gone to the wrong place, because we end up on a bleak industrial estate in the port of IJmuiden. But nothing could be further from the truth. Tucked away inside a Japanese fish factory, we find the modest yet charming eatery of fishmonger Marinus Noordenbos and his wife Yukiko, where Japanese cuisine truly shines. Noordenbos, the son of a shipowner, was sent by his father to a business partner in Japan for a year when he was eighteen to catch and fillet horse mackerel. A fish that isn't popular here, but is considered a delicacy in Japan. Once back, he had a mission: the world had to get to know this fantastic fish. The setting at Hokkai is minimalist: wooden tables set with chopsticks and small dishes for pouring soy sauce. It will later turn out that several sakes are carefully selected and accompanied by relevant information by the passionate Master Sake Sommelier Menno Tol (formerly at Yamazato Okura)—his encyclopedic knowledge is unparalleled—all poured into the same glass. Yet it doesn't overwhelm. What's really at stake here is tasting the very best quality fish, prepared using classic Japanese techniques. And you can rest assured about that: Chef Kuniyoshi Ohtawara (former head chef at Okura) crafts standout dishes that excel in purity and elegance. You can choose between an 'omakase' menu (meaning 'I leave it up to you') or à la carte. For an aperitif, a glass of Shizenmai Sparkling organic, an organic sake with naturally occurring bubbles. Revitalizing, pure, and refined. We taste a sashimi cocktail of live-fresh salmon, tuna, and kingfish, served with a frozen Marigold egg. Paired with an Akebono Kurazakura sake that blends seamlessly. Then we continue with the Chef's Choice, consisting of four maki, three sashimi, and eight nigiri. As for the crispy takoyaki—dough balls stuffed with octopus—we'll definitely be coming back for more tomorrow. And of course, we sample the pickled and dried butterflied horse mackerel, the very first fish Marinus sold when he founded Hokkai. We can only conclude that this fairly hidden gem deserves all the praise. Welcome to Lekker.