Ambrozijn

Where the altar once stood, there is now a large open kitchen. Indeed, we are in a former church dating from 1891 that has been completely renovated. It is interesting to watch chef Sven Nijenhuis and his team up close...

Restaurant Ambrozijn (freely translated: food and drink of the gods), run by owner-chef Sven Nijenhuis and his wife and hostess Joëlle Nijenhuis-Boessen in Valkenburg, offers an exceptional experience where gastronomy, architecture, and hospitality merge masterfully. Housed in a beautifully renovated church, Sven and his team craft a rarely refined and harmonious culinary narrative, entirely dedicated to the guest. The welcome is warm and attentive, with meticulous attention to detail. A handwritten welcome card from the chef sets the tone right away. Guests can choose from a multi-course menu that can be enhanced with caviar, foie gras, and lobster. Accompanying a glass of elegant 2021 FJ Regnery Riesling Crémant Brut are appetizing welcome bites, among which a bonbon made of jelly with kombucha, pickled ginger, and oyster mushroom proves to be a true sensation. This certainly holds great promise. Tasting through the menu reveals a kitchen that excels in balance and precision, with dishes that breathe both classic craftsmanship and contemporary creativity. Highlights include perfectly cooked sea bass with jalapeño ceviche, grapefruit jelly, puffed quinoa, and shellfish foam, exquisitely refined and beautifully balanced. So too are the red mullet with anchovy-saffron jus, and a superbly prepared Anjou pigeon breast with pigeon ragout, a root vegetable parcel in orange jus, and chopped pistachios, crowned with a heart confited in sunflower oil. The 2021 Icardi Barbaresco, made from Nebbiolo grapes, pairs harmoniously. From the cheese trolley, we select a tasting of five varieties, and the Utrecht gorgonzola is downright surprising, as it is soft with an extremely refined, mildly spicy flavor. Served with nut bread, apple syrup on a small spoon, and white grapes. The young service staff is professional, genuine, and full of flair. And the setting, with views of the open kitchen and the organ bar on the mezzanine, is breathtaking. A delightful establishment. On the threshold of the Top 100.

All tables at Ambrozijn, located in the former Irene Church next to the Cauberg in Valkenburg, have a view of the open kitchen. From the mezzanine, but especially at the large chef's table surrounding the kitchen, which seats eighteen guests. Chef Sven Nijenhuis and his wife Joëlle have truly found their place here. 'What you see is what you get' is their motto, and throughout the dinner it becomes clear that this is absolutely true. Paired with a sparkling Charles Elner rosé champagne, we sample a bonbon – filled with sangria cocktail – that you are meant to pop into your mouth in one go, a tartlet with basil, tomato, and parmesan. Followed by a razor-thin crisp with lamb cheek hummus and snap pea cream. The final welcome bite is chawanmushi with river crayfish and a dashi vinaigrette. The tone is set. For the starter, bluefin tuna tartare topped with rosé-seared Blanc Bleu Belge (a Belgian cattle breed) with piccalilli and rocket cream. In one word: divine. We pair this with a Riesling from the Palatinate. The second course also consists of meat and fish. Pan-fried turbot topped with beef sausage, green onion mayonnaise, panko crunch with five-spice powder, a leek nest, and a classic soubise. A refined palette of soft sweetness. The main event is saddle of lamb with sourdough crunch and Limburg asparagus, plus various preparations of garden peas. Served with falafel seasoned with ras el hanout. As a side dish, a small tajine with couscous and lamb cheek. Masterful. For dessert, we can choose between something sweet or a visit to the cheese altar. We cannot decide and order both. We receive among others Columbier from Île-de-France, a sheep's milk cheese from Spain, Freiburger Fricâlin, and a farmhouse-aged Gouda. Accompanied by grapes, nuts, a spoonful of Limburg syrup, and two delicious slices of raisin bread. The dessert is a rhubarb and miso crèmeux, white chocolate, and verbena ice cream. In the glass, a Veteribus Blatina from Bosnia. Worth the indulgence.

The former Irene Church, with its characteristic round-arched windows, looks impeccably maintained. Inside the national heritage building, every detail has also been carefully considered. We are invited to take a seat at the spacious chef's table, where eighteen guests can sit around the open kitchen. Business class, indeed, though for a business meeting you would be better off on the first floor, where comfortable blue sofas next to a generous bar set the scene and guarantee privacy. Head chef Sven Nijenhuis and his wife Joëlle, who handles service, create a pleasant atmosphere. The starters featuring two types of celery, Flemish asparagus, and grilled swordfish are not exactly heavenly. They lean more toward being bland or overly sweet due to the use of white chocolate, which detracts from our Belgian Limburg sparkling wine. Fortunately, the grey shrimp with green curry foam, mango, and cucumber change that. The sommelier team is deliberately understaffed, which means the kitchen staff both serves the dishes and provides explanations. Our menu begins with steak tartare made from Blanc Bleu Belge beef, served with leek, mayonnaise, oil, and crispy vermicelli. The addition of caviar is actually unnecessary for us, as the accompanying dashi broth is more than enough flavor-wise. Fresh oysters from the lobster tank are poached and topped with a mixture of sesame, nori, and soy. Beautiful umami flavors that are subtle enough to still allow the original taste of the oyster to shine through. This is followed by a robust bisque that we have never enjoyed so much before. It is accompanied by brioche toast topped with lobster salad and garnished with African marigold leaves. For dessert, we indulge in the 'White Queen', an edible replica of the chess piece. How fittingly, it is also presented on a chessboard. Creative!

The restaurant within the 12th-century Castle Wittem, named after Sir Winand van Julemont who purchased it in 1220. The ambiance is chic and every detail is meticulously perfected. The same can be said of the lush garden, where not a single blade of grass grows out of place. Head chef Guido Braeken wields the scepter in the kitchen. And indeed he does. For starters, four highly flavorful creations, including an oval crisp filled with paprika relish, topped with peanuts, yuzu cream, fried spring onions, and cornflowers. The final amuse is prepared tableside by one of the chefs and accompanied by commentary: tuna with ginger beer ice cream and foie gras is superb. But that praise applies to the entire menu. We taste hamachi, both raw and seared. Kagoshima wagyu is served with a smoky presentation and also features smoked eel. This is also present in the rich hollandaise sauce. Turbot with winter truffle, morels, and vin jaune foam from the Jura is paired with a Chardonnay from the same region, served in beautiful Zalto glasses. Alongside the short rib, we are presented with 'bak kut teh', a Malaysian pork rib broth. On a previous visit, we encountered this exact broth with sea bass. Even then, we were left in high spirits by the sunfish with asparagus and lamb prepared in three ways. A top-tier gastronomic experience with bold flavors, albeit with a steep price tag. Nevertheless, we make a strong case for the knight and take a deep bow.