Beluga Loves You

High quality cooking

Chef Servais Tielemans places great value on the provenance of ingredients and therefore regularly travels to suppliers to observe how they are produced in harmony with nature. The ambiance on the outskirts of Maastricht’s city center exudes luxury, and that is exactly what we later see reflected on the plates. In the atmospheric lounge area, the first three amuse-bouches, or “bites” as they call them, receive their finishing touches. We enjoy these alongside an aperitif glass of beautiful dry Crémant d’Alsace from Emile Boeckel: lime marshmallow with cherry and coffee, a mini bread soufflé with tom kha kai and large mushrooms, and a macaron with cauliflower, hazelnut, and kaffir lime. There is no menu card here, but rather a progressively structured tasting menu. The wine list features not only European labels but also wines from the New World. Only a limited selection of wines by the glass is available. To start, sushi rice with day-fresh yellowfin tuna, Korean barbecue sauce, and sesame, served with dashi, radish, and cucumber. A separate crispy sushi rice bite with radish and cucumber is also brought out; it is a welcoming gesture but adds little to the overall dining experience. The floral Gewürztraminer from Tuzko Birtok in Hungary pairs perfectly. The cod is cooked at 37 degrees Celsius and accompanied by chive gel, a herb sachet wrapped in oyster leaf, lemon cream, a hay-smoked beurre blanc, and sugar snap pea spaghetti. Unfortunately, we cannot taste the hay-smoked note in the sauce. This is followed by an excellent vegetarian dish. A parsnip millefeuille with yuzu gel and oyster leaf cream, maitake mushrooms, ponzu, and red miso foam. What a beautiful flavor profile, especially when paired with the Blazon Pinot Noir 2022 from California. The cheese selection is lovely and served generously sliced. You do pay a hefty price for all this, and quite a few points should certainly be deducted for that. The rating drops to 28.

Beluga Loves You welcomes its guests in an iconic building on the ground floor of a building designed by Jo Coenen at Plein 1992 in Wyck. On the banks of the Meuse, guests are first pampered in the lounge with three artistic appetizers w...

Fortunately, things are once again looking up for Beluga Loves You, which recently managed to avert bankruptcy. Alongside Servais Tielman, Danny Deng is now also an owner of this iconic establishment. Upon entering, the luxurious and comfortable atmosphere of the lounge immediately stands out. The interior, with its dark tones and warm accents, exudes a sense of refinement. The subdued lighting creates an intimate ambiance, perfect for kicking off lunch with an aperitif and three beautifully presented and flavorful amuse-bouches. An impressive starter. Unfortunately, the atmosphere in the dining room cannot quite match that of the lounge. The color scheme in the restaurant feels somewhat dated. Fortunately, the dishes more than make up for it. Chef Servais builds his dishes around menu ingredients, ensuring the garnishes always serve the main component. The starter of lightly pickled scallops with piccalilli, smoked tomato water with tarragon, and a scallop tartare, accompanied by a madras curry mousse and a matching tuile, demonstrates great attention to flavors and textures. This is paired with a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Riesling from Ontario’s Norman Hardie wine estate. A perfect match. For the main course, rack of lamb and forty-eight-hour slow-cooked lamb neck are served with a sauce of lamb, lamb fat, mint, basil, and tarragon oil. Additionally, there is chawanmushi with sweetbread and broad beans. The lamb neck boasts a wonderfully deep flavor, perfectly complemented by the intense sauce. The creamy chawanmushi and sweetbread are refreshed by the broad beans, making for a pleasant addition to the main course. We finish with a cheese board, where the Bolle and the Danish blue particularly stand out. The service is friendly, attentive, and professional. But does this experience justify the steep prices asked? The quality of the offering is high, but the wine markups exceed normal margins, and water and petit fours come at a premium. Some changes are needed here. It therefore drops to number 24.

Servais and Stephanie Tielman's chic restaurant is beautifully situated on the eastern bank of the Meuse River. On Sundays, it offers an intimate lunch experience in the 'Terra' cellar, which serves dessert, coffee, and tea on other days. Aperitifs are served in the 'Bosco' lounge, which is decorated with abundant wood. We are offered a glass of Deutz rosé Champagne; later, the wine list reveals that several options by the flute are available across different price ranges. We sample welcome bites such as kataifi with remoulade and salmon bites. This is followed by a carrot cylinder stuffed with bamboo shoots and cockles. The macaron with apple, foie gras, and hazelnut is equally delicious, though its sweetness gives the sparkling wine a slightly tart impression. The same effect occurs at our table. Steam literally billows from our nostrils when the amuse—popcorn coated in caramel and sea salt—is doused in liquid nitrogen. Unfortunately, the sweetness here is also too overpowering alongside our wine. For the starter, we have carabinero shrimp prepared as a marinated tartare, which arrives at the table drizzled with yuzu vinaigrette and a carabinero dressing. Our server has to be recalled momentarily after forgetting to drizzle the dressing over one of the plates. The flavors are lovely and subtle. Served alongside is marinated artichoke with mustard pearls, which somewhat mutes the artichoke's original flavor, followed later by a carabinero shrimp bisque topped with a clear basil foam. The presentation, served in three components on exquisite white Limoges porcelain, is visually stunning. Paired with this is a glass of fresh, fruity 2022 Provence rosé By.Ott from Domaine Ott. An Irish Mór oyster follows, garnished with seaweed, fenugreek, and lemon. Next, the lamb from the Pyrenees is absolutely delicious. It features a tower of pork belly, a rack of rose-crusted lamb loin cooked to perfection, and sweetbreads served with a natural lamb jus. For dessert, rhubarb appears in two iterations. First, a lukewarm tartelette with rhubarb compote, finished with a crunchy almond topping. Second, a round disc of ruby chocolate paired with fermented pink chocolate featuring rhubarb accents, served in a rhubarb coulis, accompanied by spun sugar ice cream, shaved rhubarb cubes, and a gel. The perfectly paired Sauvignon Blanc 'Sweetheart' by Olivier Zeter from Germany's Pfalz region is notably light at 7.5% alcohol, offering a fresh and slightly sweet profile. What we find rather odd is that the water we had beforehand was already on the bill, yet we were asked to pay again for the table water arrangement (which was the exact same water). Not particularly welcoming. Due to these minor gripes, the rating slips down a few spots from the top to 15.

That Servais Tielman is not only a gifted chef but also a passionate entrepreneur is evident from the fact that he has now opened a casual restaurant, ‘Flavourz by Servais’, opposite the central station in Maastricht, alongside two pastry shops that also sell ice cream in the same city. Meanwhile, the appeal of his gastronomic dining palace, Beluga Loves You, remains undiminished. The concept behind the three experiential spaces—Bosco (an aperitif room featuring plenty of wood in its interior), Aqua (the dining room overlooking the Meuse), and Terra (where desserts, coffee, and tea are served)—is completely foolproof. The blackberry, blueberry, and strawberry shot is an immediate success, and the amuse-bouches that follow don’t fall short at all. A shrimp taco with tandoori and tomato, and a bread cushion with ratatouille and black garlic, are lovely welcome bites. Tielman presents a menu that can be ordered course by course. Starting with the most delicious and exclusive part of the bluefin tuna otoro, served with ginger and almond milk, comes a 63-degree cooked oyster with white wine jelly and laurel and fenugreek foam. What perfection! The wine, a Roussette de Savoie from Chevalier Bernard, pairs perfectly with it. This is followed by tenderly cooked beef with its own deliciously sticky jus, zucchini, and a beef stew with parsley root. Simply excellent. The cheesecake for dessert is served as a crème brûlée with raspberry sorbet on the side. The complimentary dessert wine, a Coteaux du Layon Rochefort Chenin Blanc from the Loire region, is once again a standout. Everything clicks here: the service led by the charming hostess Stephanie Tielman, the wine selections by gifted sommelier Kaj Velleman, and naturally: the exceptional food. A top-notch establishment.

After a highly eventful period, Beluga Loves You by Servais Tielman and Stephanie Tielman-Korach is thriving once again. And what a transformation! The restaurant has undergone a true metamorphosis and is now divided into three experiential spaces. Bosco (forest) serves as the reception area. Wood dominates the decor in this space, where guests enjoy aperitifs accompanied by amuse-bouches. Servais and his team forage for ingredients in the woods, incorporating nuts, herbs, and anything else they uncover. Dinner is served in the Aqua (water) dining room, featuring blue flooring, undulating artwork on the ceiling, and a breathtaking view of the Meuse River – naturally showcasing plenty of seafood. Terra (earth) is dedicated to desserts, coffee, tea, and small pastries. On pleasant days, guests can linger over coffee and drinks on the terrace. The amuse-bouches are outstanding: a crisp pillow made from a blend of yeast and onion, topped with Lardo di Colonnata, delivers an immediate flavor explosion. Equally impressive is the king crab with salmon roe and tarragon foam. The first course features an orange-shaped pastry shell filled with langoustine, poached in orange and served with a coconut sauce. The subtlety of the flavors truly impresses us. Scallops resting on a bed of piccalilly and smoked tomato vinaigrette are equally delightful. A Madras curry and mustard seed mayonnaise brings the dish to perfection. A Chenin Blanc from the Loire appears tailor-made for this dish, thanks to its lingering finish. Next comes a triple-000 oyster, aged six years and slowly cooked, served atop spinach with a butter sauce and droplets of plankton oil. Salty, earthy, and mineral. The sole, soaked in milk for two days and then slowly roasted, is finished off and served with black garlic accents and a divine cep mushroom sauce. For dessert, we’re delighted by an unconventional pairing: vanilla ice cream with Jerusalem artichoke and crispy chicken skin. Savory and sweet melt seamlessly together. What an outstanding establishment! It ranks number 00 this year.

New in this guide last year. Servais and Stephanie Tielman took over the establishment from Hans van Wolde in September 2019, and Servais immediately made an impression with his elegant and classic cooking style. An unpleasant malfunction that resulted in massive water damage dashed the momentum, and the restaurant had to temporarily close its doors. Meanwhile, major renovations are underway in phases, and a completely new interior will be created that aligns with Servais’s philosophy: cooking with respect for nature. Three spaces will be introduced: Bosco (forest), Aqua (water), and Terra (earth), where guests will be transported throughout their culinary evening to fully immerse themselves in the pure experience. With head chef Guido Braeken and sous-chefs Joel Spitsen and Norris Neutelings, Servais prepares refined dishes using regional products that excel in both flavor and presentation. Sommelier Elise Schinkel pairs them with fantastic wines: “We strive to offer a wide diversity of wines, focusing on the modern guest. They no longer expect a dusty wine list.” Kudos to hostess Stephanie, whose disarming demeanor creates a wonderfully pleasant atmosphere. Together with host Patrick Logister, she ensures an evening of pure dining bliss.  Plein 1992 12, 6221 JP

Servais and Stephanie Tielman, hailing from Cucina del Mondo in Heerlen, have been the new owners of Beluga Loves You since September 1, 2019. With this, Servais follows in the footsteps of his former mentor, Hans van Wolde. 'Pure flavors and doing things together' are the themes that will give Beluga its own distinct identity. The logo has been updated, there is an exclusive house caviar line from Italy's Piedmont region, a new interior is on the horizon, and plans for a cookbook are underway. In his massive kitchen, Servais, together with his extensive team including head chef Guido Brake and sous-chef Joël Spits, prepares dishes that largely feature local products, excelling in both taste and presentation. Nothing is left to chance; every plate is assembled with utmost precision and does not leave the kitchen until Servais has given it his approval. We indulge in oysters from De Oesterij in Yerseke, accompanied by pickled red beet and beet sorbet, artistically garnished with verbena and radish. This is followed by a generous plate of super fresh hamachi slices, paired with mango, coconut, ginger, and toshi dashi. A stunning 2013 red Lapostolle accompanies a perfectly cooked piece of beef surrounded by crisp-tender artichoke hearts, meaty chanterelles, and an aromatic reduced garlic jus. It's so delicious we almost lick our fingers clean. Just like the again picture-perfectly served dessert of chocolate mousse adorned with gold leaf, sea buckthorn berries, Sichuan pepper, and sambuca tea. Kudos to hostess Stephanie, whose enthusiastic and professional approach completes the evening of dining in a relaxed atmosphere. Beluga rules! It ranks at number 36 in our Top 100.

From the intimate lounge of Beluga – set to open a satellite location outside Maastricht in a year and a half – we enter the 'dome' of SVH Master Chef Hans van Wolde alongside hostess Daniëlle de Boer. Approachable ingredients are treated with almost magical skill here. Portions are generous, and wine is poured with meticulous care. Chef Wai-Tou Tsang presents 'Hit Me', the unshakeable signature amuse, a miniature masterpiece of tomato, Parmesan, and basil. Delightfully flavorful, astonishingly simple in concept, construction, and innovation, and renowned worldwide. Sommelier Matthijs Vranken pairs it with a pleasant 2016 Leithaberg Esterházy Chardonnay from Austria. We enjoy a regional white Pinot Gris from Aldeneyk in Maaseik alongside the unique city-grown asparagus sourced from neighboring De Poshoof. Cod served with risotto, crab sauce, wild asparagus, and roasted onion rings is accompanied by a reliable Sauvignon-Viognier from the Pays d'Oc. To conclude, a white chocolate cream with fresh raspberry sorbet and crunchy vanilla and sweet tarragon crumbs arrives at the table alongside a bright strawberry jus and a lightly sweet Dr. Deinhard Scheurebe. On a subsequent visit, we sample asparagus with lobster and artichoke served in a bowl-shaped Chinese vessel; its 'lid' is inverted and, at the table, maître Peterhans of Harinxma fills it with the cooking broth. The flavors are elegant and lightly aromatic. The turbot is supremely fresh, cooked to a perfect firm, springy texture, and infused with the rich flavor of barigoule, the delightful Provençal broth of artichokes, herbs, and a touch of tangy butter. Served with cauliflower and capers. Following recent leadership changes, the rating has dropped to 13.

SVH Masterchef Hans van Wolde, who pairs talent and drive with unbridled boldness, still serves his warm parmesan cream with tomato, crowned with a crisp shell that must be firmly tapped to crack open. It’s fun and delicious, but after all these years, a new exciting signature dish would certainly not go amiss. That said, stepping into this modern, cosmopolitan venue remains a pleasure, with its curved leather banquettes and comfortable armchairs arranged around generous wooden tables set with fabric placemats and linen napkins. Though the acoustics and background music don’t quite gel. The food remains absolutely delightful. Take, for instance, the flawlessly presented hamachi tartare served on an iceberg lettuce leaf with radish, pomegranate arils, and a celery dressing. Bright, gently tangy, with beautiful textures and a rich, well-balanced flavor profile. Or once more, the hamachi draped in avocado “scales,” accompanied by pumpkin purée and crispy caviar, paired with a refreshing Blaashoek Chenin Blanc 2016. Tangy, briny, and delicate—simply exquisite. Equally stunning is a bowl of al dente tabbouleh studded with succulent chunks of lobster, bathed in a creamy, aromatic curry sauce. Or the foie gras with coconut, apple, and pistachio crumble, served alongside a glass of Martinshof Grauburgunder 2015. The main courses are equally impressive, featuring both red mullet and turbot. The former comes with a spinach cream that offers a subtle hint of bitterness, along with baby potatoes, perfectly cooked asparagus, hyssop, capers, and olives. Paired with a robust Australian Chardonnay (One Chain, 2015)—a fine selection by sommelier Matthijs Vranken. The perfectly pan-seared turbot features a thoughtfully composed accompaniment of morels, endive, and walnuts. Served alongside a velvety Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay 2014. However, the strawberry-and-ice dessert cocktail feels overly indulgent: powerful in intensity but hardly inventive. Due to significant shifts at the top, Beluga has slipped to tenth place.