Restaurant 55

In het hart van Maastricht, verscholen in een monumentaal pand in de Heggenstraat, biedt Restaurant 55 van gastheer Martijn van den Berg en chef Roel Sanders een verrassende en eigenzinnige culinaire ervaring. De sfeer is warm en informeel, met een stijlvol interieur waar witte bakstenen, donker hout en barokke details harmonieus samensmelten met moderne accenten. De bediening is vriendelijk en kundig, met oprechte aandacht voor de gast zonder stijfheid. Het menu dat dagelijks wisselt balanceert moeiteloos tussen verfijning en creativiteit. We vangen aan met een tartaar van tonijn met foie gras en een vinaigrette van sambai en koolrabi-olie. Fris, romig en perfect in balans. Kwartel wordt geserveerd in twee bereidingen. Filet met koji, en een gefrituurd boutje in tempura. Het toont de technische beheersing en biedt een smaakvol contrast tussen umami, krokant en sappigheid. Alleen de asperges bij de schol met gamba en saffraan smaken wat bitter, maar het gerecht blijft in zijn geheel verfijnd. Hoogtepunt is reebokfilet, gecombineerd met sumak, zwarte olijf, biet en een krachtige kersenjus. Een perfect spel van kracht, zuren en aardse tonen. De desserts steken origineel en doordacht in elkaar. Rabarber verschijnt in allerlei vormen: als rauwe compote, gefermenteerd in amazake-ijs, in wortelthee en kombucha. Toch is er ook een kanttekening: af en toe lijken gerechten te lijden onder een teveel aan ingrediënten of technieken, waardoor de essentie wat verloren gaat in complexiteit. Minder kan soms méér zijn. Desondanks maakt de balans tussen speelsheid, vakmanschap en sfeer Restaurant 55 tot een plek waar je met aandacht eet. En met plezier terugkomt!

We take our seats under the retro racing bicycle that still meets lighting standards during inspection. Funny. The hidden backstreet in the center breathes the cozy atmosphere of a French bistro, complete with plenty of chatter. This year, the 50/50 balance between coziness and culinary enjoyment receives an adjustment. We would like to see 50% more boldness on the wine list and 50% more originality on the food menu and choice options. Because the wines are listed haphazardly, without a plan, mixed together, and striking; when we choose a wine pairing, we’re told a whole fairy tale. But when we order the same wine by the bottle, the explanation remains brief. Only a six-course menu is offered on the menu board, and regarding cheese, a slightly broader selection would be welcome instead of just one single (Limburg) cheese currently on the menu. Enough complaining. The starter bread comes with no fewer than three accompaniments. The crispy appetizer with beef and tuna is delicious, and the asparagus soup with piccalilly foam is impeccable. Head chef Roel Sanders opens the menu with sea bass tartare and pepper shavings. Off to the side, a cream of the same sea bass served between cassava chips, topped with pecorino and herring roe. Next, red mullet with onion and curry beurre blanc, and turbot with asparagus pieces, lamb ear, and prawns. The Viognier 2022 from Domaine Astruc in Languedoc pairs well with the dish, but above all, it’s a safe choice. That could be more exciting. The Zweigelt 2023 from Pfaffl in Lower Austria also leans toward playing it safe. We enjoy the wine alongside squab fillet and bimi, both from the barbecue. Accompanied by egg yolk cream, peas, jus with tarragon, and the squab drumstick. To finish, strawberries with chocolate, balsamic vinegar foam, and crispy basil pieces. All dishes are neatly explained by a trio of cheerful hostesses. A nice spot in the capital of our country’s southernmost province, but with a few areas for improvement.

Relaxed dining 50%, fine dining level 50%. According to the young and passionate owners, chef Roel Sanders and host Martijn van den Berg, this guarantees a 100% cozy and delicious evening. The name 50/50 was already taken, so the zeros were crossed out, and restaurant 55 opened its doors in 2017. The establishment is housed in a characteristic building in the heart of Maastricht, and the decor blends modern and classic styles. Tables are generously spaced in the front room and the rear atrium. The venue is packed with festively dressed guests, and there is a cozy, lively buzz in the air. The first 50% has already been achieved. Roel builds his cooking on a classical foundation, creating an unexpectedly exciting cuisine with subtle flavor accents. For the aperitif, a crispy amuse-bouche featuring a tartelette filled with a Thai fish ball, coriander mayonnaise, and fried chicken skin. A tasty start. We sample freshly caught and cleaned skin-on pan-seared cod served with a curry purée and chard. Paired with a 2022 Voignier from Domaine Astruc d’A, which offers fresh aromas of fresh and dried fruit. Next comes succulently roasted wild duck, with a warning that a stray pellet might be present, accompanied by a confit leg, sweet potato elements presented as purée, barbecued cubes, and chips, a lightly sweet plum compote, and a delicious reduced jus enriched with plum wine. To finish, a compote of pineapple, cucumber, celery, and basil, paired with white chocolate ganache and sorbet. Spectacularly presented in a glass bowl resting on a plate billowing with dry ice vapor. Clever. But above all, a refreshing and flavorful finale. The second 50% is equally successful! Welcome to Lekker.