The story
At Noeti in Oosterhout, chef Julian Simonis leads a kitchen dedicated to an Oriental cuisine defined by intricate flavor pairings and meticulous execution. The establishment draws its name from the mother's traditional takeaway shop, anchoring the modern concept in family history. Host Joshua maintains a welcoming presence while Julian focuses on dishes that challenge expectations. Service flows through an omakase approach, letting the chefs guide diners through a sequence of carefully composed courses.
Dishes reveal a fearless approach to flavor, exemplified by a tartare of Dutch calf enriched with gadogado crèmeux and a kalamansi ice pastille. A rendang vinaigrette ties the components together, reimagining a familiar starter within this Oriental cooking tradition. The duck course features meat folded into crispy gyoza, resting in a rich sauce of sakura and sambai complemented by an XO beurre blanc. Earlier bites set the tone with inventions like a white chocolate bonbon housing apple juice and sereh, followed by a tomato meringue layered with boemboe mousse and lime leaf. Each plate balances heat and acidity with aromatic herbs.
The interior cultivates intimacy, using materials like young bamboo to introduce organic warmth against the backdrop of formal service. Joshua guides the flow of the evening with a grounded hospitality that makes the setting feel welcoming rather than stiff. The design prioritizes comfort, ensuring conversation remains easy despite the complexity of the dishes being served. The unassuming exterior reveals a refined interior, bridging humble origins with high culinary ambition. Attention to detail extends from the porcelain to the welcome.
Pairings play a vital role in balancing the intense spice profiles, with the wine list offering structured arrangements for multi-course dining. A crisp Valdo sparkling wine refreshes the palate against rich curry sauces, providing a clean reset between bites. Heavier dishes find harmony with fruit-forward selections such as a Max Lions Premium Grenache, which mirrors the depth of the duck preparation. These pairings complete the narrative of this Oriental gastronomy, ensuring each glass amplifies the aromatics and textures presented on the plate.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
On the edge of Oosterhout's car-free nightlife district lies Noeti, the new venue of brothers Julian and Joshua Simonis. The stylish corner building exudes atmosphere. Noeti brings a mix of French, Indonesian, and Asian influences....
The exterior of restaurant Noeti (named after the owners’ mother’s takeaway shop) may not look immediately inviting, but once inside, young entrepreneurs host Joshua and chef Julian Simonis impress with their utmost hospitality in an atmospheric setting and an exciting fine-dining kitchen where Oriental flavors take center stage. Paired with a crisp Italian sparkling Valdo from Veneto, we begin by nibbling on crunchy prawn crackers enriched with Madras curry. The small plate is empty in no time. Soon followed by freshly steamed bao buns and delicate palate pleasers such as a white chocolate bonbon filled with apple and lemongrass juice, alongside tomato meringue with bumbu mousse, sweet-and-sour tomato, lime leaf, and yellow rice crisps. This looks promising. For the starter, a tartare of Dutch veal with a gadogado cream, galangal curry cream, kalamansi ice pastille, coriander root, and a classic rendang vinaigrette. A surprising and distinctive dish that transforms the classic steak tartare into a contemporary version with refined Eastern flavors. Every bite is a feast for the taste buds. An intensely fruity Max Lions Premium Grenache accompanies a slice of brined, steamed, and lightly seared duck, served with crispy gyoza stuffed with thigh meat, a luxurious sakura and sambai sauce, and an aromatic XO beurre blanc. All presented with a modesty rarely encountered today. We say: a new star has emerged on the culinary firmament in Oosterhout, North Brabant. Worth a detour. Welcome to Lekker.
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