Tres

Met Tres hebben chef Michael van der Kroft en gastvrouw en sommelier Emy Koster een experimenteel, maar ook arbeidsintensief restaurant weten te realiseren. In de voormalige jazzkelder is plaats voor slechts twaalf gasten aan de bar, met direct zicht op de keuken. Hier wordt geëxperimenteerd met duurzame bereidingen en over het algemeen lokale, Nederlandse ingrediënten, in maar liefst achttien gangen. Een avondvullend programma. In de keuken krijgen we toelichting over het duurzaam gebruik van ingrediënten en daarna kunnen we plaatsnemen aan de bar. Een stevige en vette hamachi wordt geserveerd met een pittige saus van koolrabi. Het umami spat ervan af. Een paar gangen later wordt onze favoriet van de avond geserveerd. Op de barbecue gegaarde tarbot geserveerd met een aromatische saus van topinamboer en de wortels en bladeren van de wasabiplant. Weer een aantal gangen later springt de tortellini eruit, bereid met inktvis, blauwe bes, gepelde walnoot en afgetopt met rasp van vingercitroen. Aards, zilt en zout, heerlijk. Wij worden vervolgens meegenomen naar een afzonderlijk deel van het restaurant waar Michael ons charcuterie van (gedroogde) zeebaars, harder en forel serveert. Het menu wordt afgesloten met een soufflé met vislever en yuzu en vanillemousse met salted karamel van visvet en gekleurd met blauwe bessen en 'melk van de zee-ijs' met bruine karamel. Experimenteel, interactief, verrassend en bovenal heerlijk. De kwaliteit van de ingrediënten en het gebruik van verschillende kooktechnieken en -bereidingen is geraffineerd. De opmaak van ieder gerecht is subliem. Tot zo ver alleen maar lof. Bedenkelijk is de rekening. We snappen dat deze keuken enorm arbeidsintensief is, maar 700 euro voor twee gasten aftikken is best wel fors.

In a former jazz cellar beneath the Entrepot Building, chef Michael van der Kroft prepares a new Dutch culinary style that is entirely homemade and naturally follows the seasons. Here, experimentation gains meaning through control. The...

In a former jazz cellar beneath the Entrepotgebouw De Vijf Werelddelen, dedicated chef Michael van der Kroft and hostess Emy Koster established a culinary temple in 2019. Here, they experiment freely with both traditional and modern cooking techniques, resulting in an intriguing and sophisticated cuisine that leaves a lasting impression. Dutch produce takes center stage. Ingredients are fermented, aged, dried, and steamed. Garums, miso, and kefir are all made in-house. The dark yet atmospheric basement, furnished in a vintage style, accommodates only twelve guests at the dining counter, which is also the maximum capacity given the meticulous preparation required for each dish. Tres introduces a new seasonal menu comprising twelve smaller courses. Every detail has been carefully considered; the table is reset for each course to ensure optimal tasting with the appropriate cutlery, hand-blown glassware, and custom ceramic tableware. One now-famous classic we were served was a pear, cooked for two days and lacquered eight times with homemade broad bean miso, accompanied by a black garlic, paprika, and tomato gel. It was served on a plate specifically designed for this dish, along with a wooden spoon. Simply outstanding. And the savory “spekkoek” made from celeriac and pine cone, served with an elderflower blossom sauce, is a memory that will linger long after the meal. Bring a well-stuffed wallet, as the experience comes at a premium price. But the culinary journey crafted by Michael and Emy, presented to guests with such heartfelt dedication, is entirely worth it.

Dining at Tres is an experience. The young and ambitious chef Michael van der Kroft and hostess Emy Koster have set up an experimental kitchen in the basement (former jazz cellar) of the Entrepotgebouw De Vijf Werelddelen. Here, menus are prepared using the very latest techniques, brimming with innovation, idiosyncrasy, and complexity. Only twelve guests can take their seats at a spacious dining bar surrounding the kitchen to indulge in an ultimate experience of highly labor-intensive dishes, presented in an eighteen-course seasonal tasting menu. Dutch produce takes center stage, with ingredients sourced from local small-scale farmers, fishermen, and artisans. The menu is not vegetarian, although many preparations featuring vegetables and fruit make an appearance. Each course is served with fresh table settings featuring hand-blown glassware, custom-made ceramics, and different cutlery suited to the nature of the dish. The meal begins with snacks, continues with experiences from the sea and the land, and concludes with a collection of sweet desserts. Each dish comes with an extensive explanation. Ingredients are fermented, aged, dried, and steamed, with homemade flavorings such as kefir whey, garums, and misos added. Matching (natural) wines are available, as well as homemade juices based on fermentation, kefir, or kombucha. We taste crazy creations like a barley koji cake with a slice of vegan dry-aged chorizo made from gooseberry and pepper, alongside complexities pushed slightly too far, including duck aged for three weeks on hay, then lacquered with herb sauce, briefly grilled on the barbecue up to four times for optimal cooking with sea buckthorn berry sauce, pickled Indian gooseberry, poached wild boar ear spread with ant paste (are you still with us?) on crispy sourdough bread, and pumpkin fudge. But everything is made with so much love and dedication that you leave as a guest with an unforgettable culinary experience.

Tres is a hidden gem in Rotterdam’s Kop van Zuid district, housed in the Entrepot Building, yet guests from both domestic and international markets find their way there effortlessly. Passionate owners chef Michael van der Kroft and hostess Emy Koster have created a remarkable dining palace here, seating only twelve guests at a time. Their philosophy is straightforward: to spend a lunch or dinner savoring an intimate culinary experiment featuring ingredients from the sea or land, complete with insights into each ingredient and its preparation. We enjoyed a sixteen-course menu and were delighted from beginning to end. Vegetables and fruit take center stage in various forms—fermented, aged, as a mousse, as a crisp, and simply as fresh produce—yet always presented beautifully with exquisite flavors. Guests occasionally get to watch the preparation unfold right before their eyes. For example, when a yakitori of house-made tempeh is grilled over gently glowing marabou charcoal. The tempeh is first brushed with a tamari made from roasted peppers, then finished with a garum crafted from fermented grasshoppers (instead of the traditional fermented fish). The skewer is served on a large sunflower, accompanied by a sunflower seed dip. Thoughtfully designed and perfectly balanced in flavor. Throughout the entire menu, Michael’s personal discoveries shine through, such as an apple that cooks in camembert mold, developing a lovely sweet flavor. Excellent hostess Emy expertly pairs the wines and juices, and we highly recommend the latter. Take your time, and bring a well-stocked wallet.

Located in the monumental Entrepot building De Vijf Werelddelen on Kop van Zuid. Housed in a former small jazz cellar are the passionate hostess Emy Koster and talented chef Michael van der Kroft (both previously worked at Mevrouw Meijer in Rotterdam), where they operate an experimental and idiosyncratic kitchen. The number of guests who can sit at the dining bar is limited: to a maximum of sixteen, that is. The interior is vintage, while the approach is entirely contemporary. Here, it’s all about the experience; you surrender yourself to the dynamics of what Tres has to offer. An eighteen-course tasting menu is served with matching beverages. Every detail has been considered, with each dish presented on appropriate crockery and accompanied by the correct cutlery. A single course may consist of several small bowls, and the cooking techniques are sometimes dizzying. Michael prefers to work with local Dutch ingredients sourced from small-scale farmers, fishermen, and artisans. He forages his own herbs and holds nature and sustainability in high regard. Everything is made in-house. Fermentation features prominently in many of his dishes, including garums (fish sauces). The couple drew inspiration during a trip around the world, and international and exotic flavors shine through in the menu. For the seasoned diner, Tres delivers a culinary adventure in its finest form. Welcome to Lekker.