Concours

In this elegant establishment, local products take center stage, and under the inspiring guidance of owner-chef Alex Zeelenberg, only surprise menus are prepared. Upon our arrival, Robin Eppink cheerfully swings the door open, seats us immediately, and hands over the wine list upon request. We gladly accept when asked if we would like oysters, and of the three preparations, the fried oyster paired with sweet sambal leaves the strongest impression. We choose the six-course menu and are presented with kingfish that has been briefly seared, accompanied by pumpkin cream, pickled cucumber, and beurre blanc with green herb oil. This fresh dish, combined with a rich sauce, makes a lovely start. Before moving on to the final intermezzo, we are tempted to order the affordably priced 2018 il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino from Eppink's treasure card. For the main course, guinea fowl is served. The small portion of poultry is perfectly cooked. The skin is crispy, and the meat is tender. It is served with baby zucchini, zucchini cream, julienne-cut Dutch asparagus, and harissa sauce. That this dish features the same pastry crisp we have already encountered twice before is easily forgiven. After a selection of carefully curated cheeses, including a lovely Oudwijker Fiore, we receive warm madeleines alongside excellent coffee. A charming establishment.

We experience Concours as a lively restaurant with an open kitchen and dynamic atmosphere. The chef's menu takes guests on an engaging culinary journey. A classic foundation is effortlessly combined with contemporary cuisine....

The anticipation begins with a beautiful video on the website of Concours. In it, vegetables and herbs are picked, cut, and prepared with passion. That's a promising start. Owner-chef Alex Zeelenberg cooks classic French-European cuisine with an Asian touch, inspired by nature, the seasons, and above all his local suppliers. It is comfortable in one of the alcoves in the cozy living-room-style restaurant. The interior has a Scandinavian foundation, with tables both with and without linen, and fine chairs in grey, cream, and cognac. After lovely amuse-bouches such as the bonbon of creamy beetroot mousse, teriyaki gel, and pine nuts, we begin the four-course menu. There is no printed menu here because it changes weekly and depends on daily availability. We trust the chef's suggestions and are not disappointed. Try the 'escabeche' of red mullet. Rather than being cured in citrus juice like ceviche, it is richer in flavor, having been fried first and then marinated in citrus juice. The mullet rests on a beautiful mirror of two sauces: beurre blanc with Indian cherry and fresh gazpacho. Accompanied by wild carrot and tartare of yellow pepper. Then comes the chef's vegetarian signature dish: the 'Beignet Concours'. The filling rotates regularly. This time, the crispy fried beignet is stuffed with peas, magnolia, and fennel, and served with a sauce of coconut, panang curry, and lemongrass. Perfect. In the glass, a Basque Txakoli from winery Rezabal, light and refreshing. The main course consists of beautifully rose-seared slices of picanha from Lindenhoff's veal with a dollop of suet mousse, fresh flower jelly (a nice touch), asparagus, and crispy seaweed atop nicely coarse mashed potatoes. The meat could have been served more generously; three thin slices is a meager portion for a main course. Sommelier Nils Regien is absent, but his replacement knows their craft; his wine pairing is perfect: a 2021 Barbera d'Asti Superiore from the Piedmontese winery I Tre Vescovi. Here they cook with passion, skill, and plenty of joy. Excellent.

Liggend aan een drukke winkelstraat in het centrum van Utrecht. Concours van chef Alex Zeelenberg en zijn partner en gastvrouw Lisa Zeelenberg-ten Holt is een sfeervol ingericht klein restaurant met linnengedekte tafels, prettige verlichting en een perfect geoutilleerde open keuken die werkt op een warmtepomp waardoor er klimaatneutraal gekookt wordt. Alex en zijn sous Eric Woning koken met wat de natuur te bieden heeft, een klassieke basis met moderne technieken. Er is een regelmatig wisselend meergangenverrassingsmenu waarbij fijne wijnen worden geschonken. Bij een glas sappige Duitse Fogt Steinmeer Scheurebe Trocken, ons geschonken door sommelier Nils Regien, snoepen we van oesters die verser zijn dan vers. Een lekker beginnetje. We kunnen er kort over zijn: hier wordt fantastisch gekookt. Zalige, verrassende gerechten die prachtig zijn opgemaakt en goed toegelicht. We proeven van rauwe makreel afgelakt met teppanyaki, met een bolletje gele wortelpuree en sinaasappel. Een kunstwerkje om te zien en delicaat van smaak. Net als parelhoen van het hoofdgerecht met harissa en krokantjes van pecorino. We drinken hier een Fier Comte-rosé bij met een piepkleine zoetje en een lekker fris zuurtje. Alles loopt op rolletjes. Hier werkt een team dat er plezier in heeft en dat merk je en stralen ze uit met elkaar. Leuk om te weten: tegenover het restaurant ligt restobar Café Concours, waar je zonder te reserveren binnen kunt lopen voor een menu met kleine gerechten en waar wijn centraal staat. De goedgevulde wijnkaart, samengesteld door Nils, bevat labels voor elke portemonnee. Leuk!

Concours has invested in a new kitchen powered by a heat pump, ensuring climate-neutral cooking. Owner-chef Alex Zeelenberg and his partner Lisa Zeelenberg-ten Holt are making solid progress. Alex blends classic foundations with contemporary cooking techniques. He delights in letting guests experience what nature has to offer, and to make the most of seasonal produce, there is no fixed menu. Instead, guests select from a multi-course tasting menu ranging from four to six courses. Each course is paired with a suitable wine. The modern dining room offers comfortable seating, a view of the open kitchen, and a chef's table where several guests can dine. We begin with lightly seared mackerel accompanied by a smoked mackerel cream, alongside a roll of Chioggia beetroot and celeriac stuffed with avocado and green apple. The accompanying fermented red pepper sauce is a standout. Next comes a tom kha kai sauce featuring oyster mushrooms, eggplant, pea beignets, farmer's yogurt, radish, and a rice crisp. The overall harmony here leaves something to be desired. The main course presents beautifully pink-roasted lamb, sliced into thick pieces, served with a fragrant and spicy harissa sauce. The Italian Primonobile Negroamaro, with its characteristic sweet and bitter notes, pairs harmoniously. Following the chervil and white chocolate pannacotta dessert, we enjoy tea served elegantly in a small Chinese teapot on a porcelain saucer. It just misses a perfect score. A wonderful address in the heart of Utrecht where supreme hospitality sets an example.

When restaurants subtly showcase beautiful vegetarian dishes, they demonstrate an understanding of the zeitgeist. A substantial dish does not always require meat or fish on the plate. We experience this at Concours. For some time now, this charming and consistently bustling restaurant has relocated to a new building directly across from its former, homely restaurant in the heart of Utrecht. From the kitchen of owner-chef Alex Zeelenberg, we enjoy a five-course menu that surprises us with a delightful vegetarian starter: a pumpkin fritter accompanied by oyster mushrooms, yogurt mousse, and tom yum sauce. It is softly sweet and refreshing, with a pleasant umami depth. The host and sommelier, Nils Regien, surprisingly pairs it with an Israeli Gewürztraminer. We are cautioned that the wine has a slight sweetness, but it actually complements the dish perfectly. The main courses are also heavily vegetable-focused, though meat-eaters can opt for a beautifully roasted duck breast. What stands out is that every dish is presented exquisitely on stunning tableware. This includes the inventive dessert of panna cotta with lemongrass, paired with basil and cucumber ice cream. Simply beautiful, and absolutely delicious! The atmosphere in this modern, casually styled restaurant is lively and distinctly big-city, yet undeniably welcoming. The bill is steep, but the experience is well worth it.

If you ever decide to sell it, we want it,” Alex Zeelenberg told the then-owner of the building where he was working as head chef four years ago. Two weeks later, she decided to put the city restaurant up for sale. The rest is history. This cheerful, narrow space run by Alex and his wife Lisa is now known as Concours, featuring wooden floors and closely spaced tables meticulously set with linen. Alex has a deep appreciation for everything that grows in nature, crafting dishes that feature foraged ingredients, produce from local farms around Utrecht, and unique items sourced from the surrounding area. His mission is to offer affordable dining without compromising on quality. Lisa says: “Chef Alex Zeelenberg’s signature style can be described as a foundation of classic French cuisine blended with international spices.” The chef’s menu can be ordered in four to six courses and features an international concept. Beautifully plated dishes arrive at the table, each achieving perfect flavor balance. Marianne Zeelenberg, the chef’s sister, imports exclusive wines from boutique vineyards that pair exceptionally well with Alex’s culinary style. Sommelier Nils Regien ensures a flawless wine-and-food pairing experience. Lisa and her friendly, youthful team ensure guests enjoy a pleasant and relaxed evening. Looking to celebrate something special? Reserve a seat at the chef’s table in the kitchen, which seats eight to ten guests. A genuinely welcoming spot. Good to know: At the beginning of October, Concours opened a new location directly across the street. The restaurant has moved to the new site, which also serves lunch. The current location will transform into a wine-focused restaurant offering à la carte dining, masterclasses, and wine tastings.

From an economic standpoint, it is of course ideal to prepare a daily changing surprise menu. For guests who prefer to know exactly what they are ordering, it remains a guessing game. Nevertheless, we are pleasantly surprised by everything that owner-chef Alex Zeelenberg conjures up from the kitchen. The amuse-bouches of mozzarella with cucumber and radicchio foam, and eggplant purée with potato foam and pecorino, certainly taste promising. It is bustling in the narrow, intimate dining room with its wooden floor, closely spaced linen-covered tables, and open kitchen. There is a pleasant, lively buzz in the air. Hostess Lisa Zeelenberg is not present during our visit, but her serving team handles the service with great flair. Lightly flambéed cod is served as a starter, accompanied by dried cauliflower, crisp apple, pak choi, shaved hazelnuts, and shiitake jus. Paired with it is an Austrian Riesling from the Kremstal, beautifully round and mineral-driven. The tenderly cooked lamb loin comes with ravioli filled with forest mushroom duxelles, spring onions, sweet-and-sour asparagus, sweet pepper purée with hoisin, and pea purée. An Italian Ferrante Governo All’Uso 2016 from Tuscany proves itself a worthy companion. To finish, an almond tartlet with pine needle ice cream and a "financier"—crumbled French almond cake seasoned with brown butter—alongside a small semolina pudding. We would gladly return for all this deliciousness.

A popular spot with a natural interior of wood and leather, featuring alternating tables set with and without white linen. Chef-owner Alex Zeelenberg was head chef at Vis aan de Schelde in Amsterdam before starting this venture with his wife Lisa. We drink a Blanc de Noirs from Becker Landgraf in Rheinhessen, 2017, with amuse-bouches such as an oyster marinated in a kalamansi (Thai citrus) vinaigrette with olive oil and cardamom; roasted scallop on pomme soufflé with beurre blanc; lightly spiced langoustine with horseradish and papaya. Delicious signature bites with a pleasant balance of sour, salty and sweet, soft and crispy. Next comes Dutch trout, confited in olive oil and served with Dutch river crayfish, foaming bisque, sorrel, radish, black rice crisp, and pickled apple with cayenne pepper. In the glass: a Northern Spanish Godello, Gaba do Xi, 2017. The vegetarian main course is a surprise: pumpkin poached with cinnamon, clove, cardamom, lemon and butter, then simmered in vegetable broth. Served like a fritter with forest mushrooms and tom kha kai sauce, contrasted by a farmer’s yogurt mousse and salty lamb kidneys. Exciting and delicious. The Southern French Lirac, Castel Oualou, 2015, pairs perfectly. To finish, meringue with lemon, sea buckthorn, buttercream with nutmeg, saffron ice cream, and poached plum, accompanied by a glass of Málaga wine. Welcome to Lekker!