Broederenklooster

The atmosphere of this old 13th-century monastery — now a restaurant and hotel — has been well preserved, and many authentic elements recall its past. The only completely new feature is the open kitchen, where we watch chef Niels van Dooijeweert and his team at w...

Located in one of the oldest buildings in the city of Zutphen, it is today a luxury boutique hotel and fine dining restaurant. The kitchen is led by chef Niels van Dooijeweert, and the service team is headed by hostess Marieke Löhr. Niels bases his cooking on French classical cuisine, incorporating modern preparation techniques. He values connections with local producers, and many of the ingredients used come from the surrounding area. Accompanied by a refined Riesling from Weingut Knipser ‘Johannishof’ – which does take a bit of waiting for – a parade of amuse-bouches arrives, and the red wine bomb with blue cheese is a perfect choice. The presentation of the welcome bites is stunning. The starter is ajo blanco with seared sea bass, grapes, pine nuts, and watercress. Well-seasoned and modestly portioned. Surprisingly, the main course is also a soup: a bisque with Dutch prawns and turbot on a sweet potato purée. The flavor is rich and deep, and the plate is completely emptied. We mop up the remnants with delicious brioche bread, which is refilled a few times. Before dessert comes an entremet: magnolia ice cream with stinging nettle gel and orange zest. Featherlight and refreshing. We finish with baba au rhum, a meringue filled with pineapple and mango, and orange ice cream with coconut foam and coconut shavings. The coffee is accompanied by excellent little treats such as fudge with coffee liqueur and sea salt, a ginger cake, canelés de Bordeaux, and a tartelette with crème anglaise and amarena cherries. Delicious.

Upon entering the Broederenklooster, you are immediately captivated by an enchanting atmosphere that matches the rich history of the oldest and most beautiful building in Zutphen, dating back to the 13th century. The hospitality duo Niels van Dooijeweert and Marieke Löhr bring a modern twist with their dynamic team and a menu featuring French and international dishes. The menu is not presented to us in advance. When booking, we already select the four-course chef's lunch and allow ourselves to be completely surprised by the creations of Chef Niels and his kitchen brigade. The wine list is impressive and features a wide selection of wines, with an emphasis on German labels. We start with an amuse of crispy pork rind and thyme mayonnaise, accompanied by a 2022 white Riesling from Weingut Erben von Beulwitz. The still-warm, house-made brioche bread is served with lightly whipped cultured butter, a basil cream, and a fruity Spanish olive oil. The first course presents raw dorade fillet, accompanied by a curry with papaya, glass noodles, and an oil infused with lime leaves and turmeric. Although the dish is flavorful, we find it lacks a touch of fresh acidity to better balance the overall composition. Next comes a perfectly cooked loin of cod, served in a lightly frothy beurre blanc with rhubarb and sautéed spinach. Delicate and harmonious, with complementary flavors that come together beautifully. The restaurant's signature dish is highly recommended to us by hostess Marieke. We are easily persuaded and enjoy pan-fried goose liver in a macadamia crumble with marinated and baked pineapple in a fennel jus. A flavor bomb and a true delight for enthusiasts. All this indulgence comes to a close. A pre-dessert of lemon verbena sorbet ice cream gives way to Dutch strawberries with vanilla cream. Simple but excellent. Overall, the Broederenklooster delivers an impressive culinary experience. The dishes are crafted with care and attention, though some flavor nuances could be slightly more pronounced.

Anton de Lange purchased the Broederenklooster, one of the oldest and most beautiful buildings in the center of Zutphen. This was followed by an intensive renovation, and today the Broederenklooster boasts a fine dining restaurant, fifteen chic boutique hotel rooms, a beautiful interior and herb garden, all while preserving authentic elements within a historic atmosphere. Chef Niels van Dooijeweert prepares classic cuisine with a modern twist using the finest local ingredients. We are welcomed with a parade of amuse-bouches including gazpacho with tomato, bell pepper refreshed with melon and herb oil, a wafer with eel mousse and orange zest, and a delightful pistachio macaron with foie gras. What a generous and warm welcome. Soon after, a basket arrives with an assortment of breads served with cultured butter infused with lavender, basil mayonnaise, a fruity olive oil, sea salt, and pepper. Hostess Marieke Löhr presents the menu and wine list, the latter being impressive despite the limited selection available by the glass. We begin with sea bass tartare, tzatziki, and a lightly tangy dill dressing. This is followed by a perfectly cooked turbot fillet atop Jerusalem artichoke and leek ravioli, cherry tomatoes, and beurre blanc made with smoked butter and a slightly generous pour of white balsamic vinegar. The main course features monkfish in brown butter sauce, accompanied by a thickened green herb broth with lobster, peeled cherry tomatoes, paprika mayonnaise, green olives, and antipasto. Hostess Laura Hilhorst pours a complimentary 2019 Laquai Spätburgunder trocken to accompany it. Rich, smooth, and beautifully complementary. The pre-dessert is prepared tableside from a mobile ice cream cart. Surprisingly, the citrus ice cream is enriched with magnolia syrup. The service, led by Marieke, is warm and fosters a relaxed atmosphere in a laid-back setting.

In 2019, the monumental monastery of the brothers by Anton de Langer, one of Zutphen’s oldest buildings, was converted into a chic yet highly accessible boutique hotel and restaurant. In the beer hall, guests can sample the finest regional beers, there is an extensive gin collection, and wine and food tasting events are held in the wine cellar. The contemporary dining room is located in the former refectory (the monks’ dining hall), where historical details have been preserved. It is busy on the evening of our visit, and the ambiance is filled with fashionably dressed younger guests. Chef Niels van Dooijeweert prepares classic dishes with a contemporary twist in his open kitchen. The seasonal produce used comes from the surrounding area, local suppliers, and the establishment’s own herb garden. Guests can choose from a multi-course menu, which is available exclusively for ordering per table. The wine list is extensive, though most labels lean toward the pricier side. The amuse-bouche featuring goose liver is excellent and whets the appetite for what follows. The first course beautifully presents perfectly cooked sea bass with smoked paprika, alongside skate wing with cockles in a creamy tom kha kai sauce. We pair it with a fruity dry Spanish Abadía de Nostin Valdeorras Godello, which goes down well. The main course consists of a modest portion of roasted pink duck (drake) with sweet potato, ginger, and orange jelly. Compliments to the service team led by host Marieke Löhr. Pleasant, attentive, and professional.

Sometimes you know it’s good the moment you step inside. Recommended in this guide last year and featured in the columns this year, because the cooking here is simply superb! And the ambiance is so pleasant. This monumental city monastery designed by Anton de Lange is elegantly furnished to contemporary standards while preserving its original features. We have a full view of the open kitchen, and the large windows overlook the cloister and herb garden. From the kitchen of Niels Minkman and Niels van Dooijeweert come French classics with a modern twist. Host and sommelier Jurgen Luppes pairs them with predominantly excellent wines. We start with perfectly cooked duck liver featuring rhubarb elements, such as meringue, alongside a small bowl of duck liver crème brûlée. Beautifully presented and delicious with a glass of Barsac Sauternes. The two chefs draw on their experience at top restaurants, proving it with skate wing in crab sauce, served with prawns and sea beans. Perfectly cooked, delivering a deep, layered flavor from the sauce. Unfortunately, the Pinot Blanc from the tasting menu adds little to the dish. The Black Angus entrecôte with cauliflower, miso, and red port jus is cooked to a lovely pink, tender, and naturally flavored. The Château du Buisson 2018 is well-received. The cheese board is also excellent, and the accompanying Ratafia de Champagne is a real find. Our verdict: absolutely worth the detour!