Sukerieje

Restaurant Sukerieje is located in a beautifully restored former warehouse from 1600, situated in the heart of Zwolle. The combination of historical allure and a central location makes this venue particularly attractive. The ambiance in the rest...

We are seated in the bright lower ground floor next to the chef’s table at the stately Hopmanshuis, where we begin with the chef’s menu. Nowadays, there is also an à la carte menu. For the amuse-bouche, a fresh and crisp ‘little vegetable garden’ arrives, featuring radish, carrot, asparagus, snow peas, fried onion, Jerusalem artichoke, and spicy jalapeño alongside a generous dollop of basil foam – a flavorful palate refresher, much like the light brioche bread served with rhubarb butter. After a refined fish dish with grey mullet, horseradish, diced cucumber and cucumber sauce, mint, and locally foraged meadowsweet, we are blown away by chef Yannick Roodhof’s signature dish: vegan foie gras made from cashews with radish, fermented plums, creamy fennel cream, and a tangy dressing of sea buckthorn berries and umeboshi (Japanese pickled plums). What a sublime combination, especially when paired with the Valenciso 2022 white Rioja. Yannick speaks passionately about river crayfish. Often overlooked, but he knows exactly what to do with them. Those from the Weerribben are grilled and glazed with dried cherry tomatoes, accompanied by strawberries and a clear tomato broth with chives. Delicious. The same goes for the juicy Oranje chicken from Dronten, also grilled and glazed with a porcini mushroom sauce. It is served with a crispy potato dumpling filled with peas and chanterelles, a house jus with a hint of ginger, and pea purée drizzled with oil pressed from the pea skins. No waste here. After dessert and delicate petit fours, such as strawberries marinated in elderflower and a mini gin and tonic with cucumber, mandarin, and gin and tonic sorbet ice cream, we leave Sukerieje thoroughly satisfied, a restaurant that is now firmly established in Zwolle.

The move from Dalfsen to Zwolle has been a great success for Sukerieje. Beyond the playful location in the basement of the stately Hopmans House, Yannick Roodhof’s high-caliber gastronomy is commendable, and the service under the hospitality of sommelier Levy van Rijssen is exceptionally pleasant. We reach the modern dining room via a small stone staircase and, from our table set with white linen napkins, enjoy a view of the open kitchen where focused work is underway. Yannick cooks in a contemporary and creative style, with vegetables taking center stage. Soon, a parade of five beautifully and precisely executed amuse-bouches arrives, with the cup filled with a layer of yellow beet with apricot, sea buckthorn berries, and pineapple foam with sambai puffed rice stealing the show. Kingfish is served as the first course, both as mousse and sashimi, accompanied by grapefruit, carrot, sweet potato cream, cantaloupe, and sea buckthorn berries. A bold combination of bitter and sweet. Levy van Rijssen pairs it with a salty-tasting sparkling Stella & Mosca from Alghero Torbato, Sardinia. A perfect pairing, as it turns out. This is followed by vegetarian foie gras based on cashews. Topped with wine grape jelly, green apple, white and green wild asparagus, and crispy brioche. At the table, Yannick pours a lightly tangy dressing made from Chardonnay grapes with sambai over it. The lamb loin is beautifully roasted medium-rare and served with pea fat, white and green wild asparagus, and dollops of French-style mashed potatoes. The poured jus is just about warm enough. We finish with a fine selection of well-ripened domestic and international cheeses. The price of wines by the glass is on the high side, but the pours are generous. Lovely.

Sukerieje has moved from Dalfsen to the old center of Zwolle. Chefs Martijn Kuik and Yannick Roodhof have taken up residence in the Hopmanshuis, a stately warehouse. On fine days, guests can also dine on the sunny terrace. The classic space offers comfortable seating with modern furnishings. Vegetables serve as a major source of inspiration for the chefs, who specialize in international cuisine while using local ingredients whenever possible. As amuse-bouches, a variety of vegan bites are served, with the fresh salad featuring assorted cherry tomatoes and a dill granité standing out. We pair it with a Les Centenaires Côtes-de-Nîmes 2020, a beautifully structured blend of marsanne, roussanne, vermentino, and viognier. A true feast for the taste buds is the kingfish tartare with various radishes and other pungent root vegetables, shiso, and a herb oil infused with umeboshi. The crisp Granbazán Albariño 2022 from Rías Baixas pairs excellently. Next comes baked seabass with poultry jus and beurre blanc sauce, crispy noodles, and a lightly charred spring onion. The pièce de résistance features a somewhat modest portion of roasted partridge with crispy skin, accompanied by house-made jus perfumed with verjus and pieces of shallot skin, black garlic cream, and celery root rounds. A welcome addition to the already culinarily rich city of Zwolle, though the price-to-quality ratio remains a point of attention.

Once, the stately white villa, located on the Overijsselse Vecht, was owned by Berend Egberts, director of a chicory factory. He merged it with a distillery from Winterswijk, the so-called Sukerieje. Today, owner-chef Martijn Kuik and his partner and hostess Claudia Oro run a culinary palace there with a cozy and colorful interior. The restaurant is spread over two floors, with a large spiral staircase in the center and, on the ground floor, a view of the open kitchen. Vegetables play the leading role in Martijn's kitchen, and the menu is essentially vegetarian. Meat or fish can be ordered upon request. Claudia pours matching wines, and alongside the regular wine list, the more special wines are listed in a handwritten booklet. With still deliciously warm bread and a special beer from Dalfsen, tasty appetizers arrive at the table, such as a foam with ponzu, dashi, and black garlic, and watermelon gazpacho. We choose the steak tartare and langoustine from the specials. The very finely minced steak tartare is beautifully presented with colorful al dente mini vegetables and bright acidity. The langoustine is accompanied by perfectly cooked fregola and flavorful asparagus and forest carrots. The dish is drizzled with a foamy tomato sauce. In the glass, a French Chardonnay Les Quatre Fils Aymon. We finish with a fresh and not-too-sweet strawberry pavlova with basil ice cream and lemon curd. Bon!

In this former director’s residence of the chicory factory, a stately white villa, chef Martijn Kuik and his partner, hostess Claudia Oro, run the establishment, and they do so brilliantly. The menu places vegetables front and center, with the option to add a meat, fish, or game supplement. Specials include steak tartare, lobster, caviar, seasonal fish, and entrecôte, which is served family-style for two. The dining room boasts a vibrant interior featuring eggplant-hued walls, a moss-green spiral staircase, linen-draped tables, and a weathered mirror wall. For starters, there is green apple, kohlrabi, chives, and crispy seaweed on a bed of bulgur, accompanied by an optional salmon ceviche. A Pinot Grigio L’Elfo 2019 from Veneto is poured alongside, and it pairs beautifully. This is followed by a dessert featuring beet panna cotta, beet ice cream, and boiled beet served with horseradish, radish, and herb-infused whey. We opt for smoked eel on the side. Absolutely delicious. Next come grilled eggplants, miso-glazed lemon polenta, purslane with lemongrass jus, and confit and shredded duck leg. It’s so good we’re practically licking our fingers clean. So, is there absolutely nothing to criticize? Actually, yes—a minor detail. After such a refined dining experience, the letdown of a glass of lukewarm coffee and equally uninspired tea lingers. That could certainly be improved.

The name of this beautiful white villa, where Berend Hendrik Egberts once lived, comes from his chicory factory, which merged in 1897 with a chicory roastery from Winterswijk, the so-called Sukerieje. Today, head chef Martijn Kuik, together with his partner and hostess Claudia Oro, wields the culinary scepter here, and they do so with great flair. Affordable contemporary gastronomy is what it’s all about, and from the kitchen, where a young and creative spirit thrives, come surprising and modern dishes featuring the finest produce from the Vecht Valley. Vegetables are the foundation. There is a vegetable-based menu, and for each dish, you can add optional portions of meat or fish, as listed on the menu. In addition, there are specials such as oysters, lobster, steak tartare, and more, and in winter, a 'Sunday Roast' can be ordered under the heading 'what the pot serves up'. Business manager Bianca Henken-Meppelink says: "During the coronavirus crisis, we focused entirely on our takeaway menu. This has generated significant goodwill and brand awareness (considering we only opened in the autumn of 2018). We offer a three- and four-course takeaway menu, and the dishes can also be ordered individually. To guarantee the quality of our food, we deliver dinner as a 'build-your-own meal kit' and ask guests to assemble the dishes at home. It’s a wonderful way to enjoy a relaxing escape without leaving home. Even now that we’re open again, we continue to offer our takeaway menu because people truly enjoy having something special to eat at home for certain occasions. I’ve seen how strong we are as a team and how quickly we can adapt. The collaboration between and with our other restaurants (Restaurant Sukade in Meppel and Pannenkoekenschip de Liberté in Meppel) has also been highly beneficial. I am incredibly proud of our team!" Guests can dine in the villa owned by restaurateurs Arthur Gambaryan & Jan Hogenkamp on the ground floor, where the open kitchen is also located, or take the spiral staircase to the first floor. On warm summer days, the fully renovated terrace is open. A wonderful spot!

First impressions are everything. Well, that’s exactly what head chef Martijn Kuik and his partner and hostess Claudia Oro achieve tonight, both hailing from Kaatje bij de Sluis in Blokzijl. From the moment you step inside until you leave: everything clicks and is perfectly balanced. In the villa, you can dine on the ground floor where the open kitchen is located, or take the moss-green spiral staircase to the first floor. Sommelier Hanna Scheele demonstrates her extensive expertise. The chef cooks with vegetables at the forefront, sourced from Eef Stel’s greenhouse. Paired with a Mas Bigas cava, we savor a small bowl of sesame and yogurt, followed by a crystal-clear and flavorful tomato broth with chives. All the dishes we subsequently taste excel in flavor, composition, and doneness. Whether it’s the green asparagus with peas, Granny Smith apples, and watercress, or the main course of velvet-soft pork neck served with roasted chicory, artichoke, and gnocchi in a sublime sauce made from the neck meat and enriched with vadouvan. The recommended wine, a South African Cabernet Sauvignon from Glen Carlou Haven 2018, speaks volumes about experience and expertise. Even the fries are perfectly fried and come accompanied by a creamy béarnaise sauce. We conclude this vegetable-centric culinary adventure with a delightfully varied cherry dessert, paired with a cherry beer from Vechtdal Brewery. Bravo! Welcome to Lekker.