The story
Chef Dawid Klimaniec directs the kitchen at Złoty Groń in Istebna, shaping a menu defined by modern Beskid cuisine that shifts according to the calendar. His philosophy bridges local heritage with European techniques, relying on a steady supply of seasonal produce. The pantry features house-cured meats, artisanal cheeses from nearby farms, and freshly caught river fish. This focus on ingredient integrity allows the cooking to express the distinct character of each month without unnecessary embellishment.
The menu presents dishes that honor familiar preparations while introducing refined textures. A robust kwaśnica accompanies smoked ribs, offering a deep savory profile balanced by the richness of the meat. Sandacher arrives dressed in a crayfish sauce, highlighting the versatility of the seafood options available in the region. For those preferring heartier fare, a skewer combining multiple cuts rests atop whipped sheep yogurt, creating a contrast between roasted flavors and cool acidity.
The dining space utilizes extensive wood paneling and regional decorative details to create a warm yet sophisticated atmosphere. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide unobstructed views of the Beskids peaks, drawing the landscape into the room throughout the day. During warmer periods, service extends to a terrace where guests can dine outdoors while retaining sightlines to the mountains. An open kitchen setup positions the culinary station so visitors can watch the plating process unfold.
The establishment received two caps from Gault & Millau in its 2026 guide, acknowledging the quality of the seasonal program and the overall guest experience. This rating validates the kitchen's ability to deliver coherent tasting journeys that respect local identity. Patrons frequently mention the seamless blend of attentive service and the dramatic setting as memorable aspects of their stay. The award reinforces Złoty Groń's reputation as a benchmark for Beskid cooking among discerning travelers.
Recognition