The story
Chef Rafał Niewiarowski presents Kashubian cuisine at Dym na Wodzie, located in a restored brick factory on Ul. Bałtycka 8 in Słupsk. The building recalls its origins under owner Carl Westphal, blending industrial history with contemporary dining. Niewiarowski draws on prior training in Dublin and his performance on Top Chef to guide a kitchen that processes ingredients in-house rather than using ready-made kits. Direct relationships with Baltic fishermen and local lamb farmers keep the menu anchored to the surrounding landscape.
The menu features distinct interpretations of Kashubian cooking, such as zeppeliny stuffed with roasted duck and accompanied by blue cabbage cooked with blackcurrant. Guests can order pierogi filled with goose meat and sauerkraut, baked in a creamy sauce, or opt for klopsiki made from local lamb simmered with capers. Seafood selections highlight the region's waters, offering turbot prepared with bisque sauce and breaded roe, alongside dorsz zapiekany gratinated with porcini cream. Vegetable-forward plates like eggplant steak appear with complex accompaniments including herb hummus and ajwar.
A score of 11.5 from Gault&Millau underscores the quality found within these walls, where visitors notice the restored entrance doors leading into the space. The beverage program leans heavily toward regional craftsmanship, showcasing an array of kraft vodkas, artisanal liqueurs, and homemade infusions that complement the food. Wine lists remain modest compared to the spirit selection, reflecting a preference for local distilleries. The setting functions well for travelers heading toward the coast, serving as a reliable stop for family gatherings or business meetings alike.
Recognition
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