The story
de Matos in Lucerne brings a refined yet unpretentious approach to contemporary Spanish-Japanese cuisine. Chef Oscar de Matos returns to the city alongside his partner Nadine Baumgartner after fifteen years of shared ventures, including their acclaimed Maihöfli project that earned sixteen Gault&Millau points and a Michelin star. Their new kitchen operates on a simple premise: honoring ancient preservation methods while embracing modern flavor pairings. Seasonal ingredients move through a dedicated fermentation pantry before reaching the pass.
This Spanish-Japanese cuisine draws heavily on house-cured components and bold acidic balances rather than heavy reductions. A raw kingfish preparation features fermented strawberries, white grapefruit, and wasabi to cut through the rich flesh. White asparagus arrives cooked over an open flame when traditional grills fail, accompanied by a passion fruit and vanilla emulsion alongside chilled hazelnut ricotta. Wild sea bass follows with white strawberries, preserved lemon peel, and a chamomile beurre blanc that has already gained local notoriety.
The dining room stays deliberately compact to keep service direct and personal. Oscar and Nadine frequently carry plates themselves, balancing marinated yellowtail mackerel or grilled partridge with bear garlic sabayon straight from the counter. Because the workspace remains intentionally small, guests select a single fourteen-course tasting menu rather than à la carte options. This distinctive culinary framework supports precise pacing, extending from wax-aged beef prepared on request to dessert plates featuring cherry blossoms and Bengal pepper.
Recognition
Ambience