The story
Located in Belgrade, Restoran Kovac blends contemporary techniques with traditional Serbian cooking across a property that began as a traveler’s stop in 1932. Chef Ivan Arić directs the kitchen by updating established recipes while preserving the core methods of the region. The culinary team still bakes hand-crafted loaves in the on-site oven and cooks meat from local farms beneath heavy clay sač over glowing embers. Guides have recognized this balance, awarding the venue a 12.5 rating from Gault&Millau for its consistent execution.
Diners frequently order sweet and salty prunes wrapped in bacon as an early bite while deciding what comes next. The kitchen consistently prepares homemade flecks in a rich porcini mushroom sauce, often studded with tender steak pieces. Warmer months bring seasonal lamb chops roasted until the smoke clings to the meat, while colder days call for baked hunting schnitzels or the famous sač-roasted cuts served under a metal bell. These dishes anchor the menu alongside dry-aged burgers and expertly cut steaks, showcasing the versatility of the national cuisine.
Patrons gather either inside the dimly lit interior or outside under a canopy of mature trees. Live music fills the air during evening service, reinforcing the venue’s reputation as a place where business deals close and old friends reunite. The staff moves deliberately through the room, ensuring the temperature stays comfortable and the glasses remain full throughout the night. This steady rhythm turns casual visits into regular habits for locals who appreciate the unpretentious setup.
The cellar holds an extensive collection of brandies alongside a carefully curated wine list that demands sommelier guidance for complex meals. A crisp red cuts through the richness of grilled Miroc cheese or fried peppers stuffed with cottage curd. Dinner concludes with cold pancakes layered in vanilla cream, accompanied by freshly grated apples that provide a bright counterpoint to heavier savory courses. The dessert choice effectively balances the smoky intensity typical of the Serbian kitchen.
Recognition
Ambience
Location