The story
Gostilna pri Mari brings three generations of Slovenian cooking to the Brezovica outskirts of Ljubljana, where the kitchen maintains a steady hand over recipes dating back to 1954. Mara and Vili founded this rural establishment as a modest village tavern, passing leadership through Marta and Silvo to the current siblings, Rene and Špele Šuc. Gault&Millau awarded the inn a score of 13 in 2026, noting how the menu balances excellent ingredients with patient preparation while respecting its family-run roots. The kitchen refuses fashionable shortcuts. Focus remains on soups and stews that evoke the feeling of a Sunday lunch prepared by someone who understands the value of time.
A wood-fired oven anchors the Slovenian kitchen, roasting kid goat and veal shank while young pork ribs cook alongside vegetables until they reach a tender finish. Grandmother Mara's fried chicken holds pride of place. Its aroma triggers immediate nostalgia. Guests can also order the veal shank baked directly in the bread oven, served with roasted potatoes and seasonal greens, or the T-bone steak aged in air for enhanced texture. The warm starters feature stuffed ravioli filled with ricotta, radicchio, porcini mushrooms, and shrimp, resting on a buttery herb cream that bridges traditional technique with contemporary presentation. Beetroot carpaccio with fresh cheese and pistachios offers a crisp alternative among the cold plates.
An old farmhouse bread oven remains central to the atmosphere, baking genuine homemade potica and crusty loaves throughout the day. The dining room seats seventy guests, while the covered summer garden offers forty tables nestled beneath grapevines near the sound of a bubbling fountain. A fireplace borders the terrace, allowing diners to watch chefs prepare select dishes from the oven during cooler months. The dessert list honors the same heritage. Somewhere between tradition and refinement, the house cream slice closes the meal. Sommeliers assist guests in pairing local wines with meals, highlighting selections from regional producers like Maximilian Reya and Zorja to underscore the breadth of Slovenian cuisine.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
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