The story
Lieperts in Leutschach serves a refined modern Austrian tasting menu rooted in South Styrian produce. Manuel Liepert treats each plate like a compact study in texture, blending culinary playfulness with quiet regional confidence. Five or six course formats allow guests to pace their meal across multiple visits. Gault&Millau recognized this careful calibration with a 16.5 score, noting how the team turns a scenic drive into an immediate reward.
Early courses arrive as small artworks, featuring trout dashi broth alongside duck liver tucked inside delicate macarons. A bite of Leutschach crayfish pairs with green pickled strawberries and finely shaved root vegetable speck tartare. Bright lemon notes drift through several plates, grounding richer components without overwhelming them.
The main course typically lands as butter soft grazing beef, served in measured portions to highlight tenderness. Guests finish at a petit four display built for late night take away. Lisa Kürbisch steps in as maitre, smoothing transitions between the kitchen and the dining room.
Manuel and Lisa Liepert manage the floor from what they describe as culinary turntables, coordinating timing with calm efficiency. Zero proof botanical blends offer a structured alternative to local vineyard selections. The dining space carries a subtle Mediterranean warmth, reflected in the light finishes and the steady flow of Austrian cuisine.
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Admittedly, it's a "long and winding road" before you arrive at Lieperts in Leutschach, but the journey is already compensated at the very beginning by a small, delicious fireworks display. Manuel Liepert regularly astonishes with his kitchen's greetings – a potpourri of small masterpieces – as usual. Trout dashi broths are experimented with, duck liver is wrapped in macarons, or Leutschach crayfish, green pickled strawberries, and root vegetable speck tartare are crafted into tiny bites. In the subtly Mediterranean dining room, lemons perfume the air, featuring prominently in numerous dishes. Perfect, albeit small in portion, served finally as the main course of the menu: a buttery-soft Leutschach pasture-raised beef. But despite the chef's seemingly overflowing creativity: sometimes less is more. Address: Arnfelser Straße 2, 8463 Leutschach, Austria. Contact: 0664 14 18 116, office@lieperts.at, https://www.lieperts.at/. Opening hours: Mon & Tue 18:00–21:30, Fri & Sat 8:00–13:00 and 18:00–21:30, Sun 8:00–12:00. Team: Manuel Liepert, Chef; Lisa Kürbisch, Maître d'.
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