The story
At Schlüssel in Mels, chef Roger Kalberer crafts modern Swiss cuisine that honors its roots while embracing fresh creativity. The restaurant operates within a historic patrician house dating to 1811, providing a backdrop where established traditions blend seamlessly with contemporary cooking methods.
Roger Kalberer applies a precise, handcrafted technique refined during apprenticeships at Hotel de Ville, Schloss Schauenstein, and Klaus Schatzmann's kitchens. He carries forward the legacy of his father, Seppi Kalberer, who managed the restaurant for 42 years and developed the braised veal cheek into a widely imitated regional standard. Roger cites nature as his primary muse, drawing on it to create dishes that remain deeply rooted yet marked by a light, modern touch. This approach merges classical training with a playful sensitivity to flavor and texture.
The menu balances elegance with earthy warmth, featuring a rich wild consommé and comforting staples like Hörnli paired with minced meat and apple puree. Guests still seek out the red-wine-braised veal cheeks, a creation by Seppi that anchors the kitchen's repertoire. Fresh preparations include seared scallops served as tartare inside kohlrabi parcels, supported by celeriac and black walnut. Other notable plates showcase zander fillet resting on champagne beurre blanc beneath a crispy beetroot-stained topinambur chip, and lamb tortellini wrapped in artichoke leaves. The meal concludes with a combination of Felchlin chocolate and sea buckthorn ice cream.
Patrons dine in the inviting parlors of the patrician building, enjoying a relaxed environment that prioritizes substance over passing fads. The setting complements a dining philosophy focused on genuine skill and composed presentations. A renowned wine cellar holds selections from Burgundy and Bordeaux alongside wines from Graubünden. Service coordinated by Marianne Blum adds a layer of professionalism and warmth, rounding out the operation that has defined the site since 1974.
Recognition
Ambience