The story
Grace La Margna in St. Moritz delivers a refined take on Mediterranean cuisine under Executive Souschef Gabriele Lovo. His approach to Mediterranean cooking balances bold regional flavors with precise technique, drawing on Levantine spices and Italian foundations. The menu shifts seasonally, emphasizing crisp textures and bright acidity over heavy richness. Hand-selected Greek olive oil accompanies house-baked bread made from Valle Maggia flour, setting a standard for ingredient quality early in the meal.
Raw kingfish glazed with soy sauce arrives alongside pineapple aguachile, where toasted paprika rings and charred fruit pieces add necessary crunch to the citrus heat. The lobster linguine stands out as a masterclass in balance, combining tomato sugo and crustacean bisque with precisely cooked meat to harmonize umami and iodine notes. Fried peters fish follows a minimalist approach, dressed with lemon segments, capers, and parsley before being smothered in a nutty beurre blanc that carries the delicate white flesh.
Large windows frame the passage of Rhätische Bahn trains, offering dynamic movement against the alpine backdrop without disrupting the calm interior. The beverage program relies on a comprehensive wine library that prioritizes premium selections available by the glass through Coravin technology. Guests can pour single servings of aged Bordeaux like a Château Lynch-Bages 2014, ensuring optimal temperature and oxidation control while maintaining bottle integrity.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
Now the "Beefbar" is also making its way to St. Moritz. A newcomer with ambitions and a healthy dose of courage has secured the license: David Frei signed a ten-year contract for the new, already remarkably well-established, youthful five-star hotel Grace La Margna and completely renovated an entire floor for the "Beefbar". The man behind the "Beefbar": Riccardo Giraudi. They call him "Beefboy," a title he has honestly earned. There are over 40 "Beefbars" in the world's most important cities and most beautiful destinations. The centerpiece of every restaurant is an aging cabinet featuring fantastic cuts that are presented with cinematic flair. The Wagyu tomahawks, for instance, are illuminated like jewels and cost just that much: 1.4 kilos for two to three people for 493 francs. Kobe beef is always available, while Hida, Numamoto, Wine-Gyu, Miyazaki-Gyu, Hokkaido, and Kagoshima are cut from the bone on rotation. Minimum portion per guest: a substantial 200 grams! It doesn't have to be Japanese Wagyu; there's also Terroir Beef and Black Angus from Australia or the USA. The "USA Wagyu Filet" (200 grams, 120 francs), for example, was of outstanding quality and cooked perfectly. Only the accompanying "Traditional Black Pepper Sauce" was remarkably bland; we consoled ourselves with a classic Béarnaise sauce and fries. The robata setup was rather disappointing too: one would actually expect a robatayaki grill with binchotan charcoal. But inside the table grill sits merely a hot stone. Applause, however, goes to the starters, which are called "Street Food" here. The bao buns with Kobe beef smoked in jasmine tea are excellent. Kobe beef prosciutto is also listed (with salty panettone), and the quesadillas are prepared with Wagyu trimmings. Excellent the gyoza: ravioli with Kobe beef and chorizo, served with a jalapeño sauce. Finally, Wagyu is also featured in the pasta dishes, specifically in the bolognese for the pappardelle. The parmesan served with it comes with an age statement: 101 months. Salvation for all: the "Grace" wine bible weighs kilograms, and thanks to Coravin technology, premium bottles are also available by the glass: for example, a Château Lynch-Bages 2014. Not a top vintage, but just ready to drink and perfect with Wagyu. Open only in winter.
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