Talvo

High quality cooking

Naturally, we miss him. Martin Dalsass has defined the «Talvo» in St. Moritz-Champfèr for 13 years, with his outstanding cuisine and his infectious enthusiasm for exceptional ingredients. Now the South Tyrolean is in a sort of retirement. But he has meticulously planned his succession: Kevin Fernandez, who served as his right-hand man in the brigade for 12 years, has taken the helm. He trained him intensively for this role and generously handed over command in recent months. Thus, the fine rhythm at the «Talvo» continues seamlessly, aided by Kevin’s partner Lisa Carlevero, who does an excellent job on the front of house. Naturally, Kevin Fernandez is currently letting his creativity run wild. He is adding new dishes to the menu, and that is entirely his prerogative. Dalsass bestsellers like the famous cavatelli, the magical gnocchi, or the beloved iced coffee are no longer listed. “But we keep all the components in-house. If a regular requests cavatelli, he gets them,” says the new chef. One Dalsass staple remains on the menu: free-range guinea fowl with chili, thyme, ratatouille, and purple mashed purée, served in two courses; we always look forward especially to the legs skewered in the traditional style. Some 35 birds are sold each week – and elegantly carved by Lisa tableside. How do you pass the 40-minute wait for the tender guinea fowl? For example, with an «Œuf Umbertino», named after a regular who orders the 98-franc dish several times a week (!): scrambled eggs and smashed potatoes, topped with 20 grams of caviar, evenly distributed; a typical St. Moritz dish. The Balfegó tuna tartare with chive oil and a generous dose of daikon (radish) is also a delight. A second starter was out of this world: sea bass carpaccio with puntarelle tips, passion fruit gel for acidity, and two slices of lardo. It looks shamelessly good and tastes just as good. Of course, Kevin Fernandez continues the great risotto tradition. His interpretation: herbs, mustard seeds, salt-cured lemon from Amalfi aged for six months, and to the dismay of the ladies at the table, Burgundy snails as well. The spaghetti with clams comes in an updated 2.0 version, while the Jerusalem artichoke ravioli features nut butter foam, hazelnuts, and black Périgord truffle. The "Pasta Man" at the stove is Alessandro Casartelli; Martin Dalsass and Kevin Fernandez trained this career-changer for years. Two out of three «Talvo» guests skip the set menu and choose from the extensive à la carte list. It features a few exciting dishes: artichoke soup with king crab. Pan-seared sweetbreads with black salsify and grated Belper knolle. Black cod with miso on sauerkraut. Engadin veal fillet and veal shank with parsley gnocchi and truffle jus. Japanese kingfish and dorade with citrus sauce (for two people). In autumn, a few dishes from the Dalsass archive will be added: “We’ll still have capercaillie and game dishes!” promises Kevin Fernandez; his start at the «Talvo» has been tailored to perfection.