Briar

good quality, good value cooking

Now filling the space left by Merlin Labron-Johnson's original iteration of Osip, Briar's sharing-plates format signals less formality and encourages regular return visits. The dining room will seem familiar to previous visitors, though the walls are now done out in various warming shades of buttermilk and brown. Bare wood tables and a high shelf stacked with plants add to the relaxed vibe. Head chef Sam Lomas, formerly of Glebe House in Devon, offers a short menu of daily changing small plates and snacks, showcasing seasonal and local produce. Vegetables come from local growers and the restaurant’s own allotment, with meat and fish used sparingly. Dishes are beautifully balanced and cooked with an impressive lightness of touch, as shown by a rich, foamy roasted mushroom cream with pickled girolles and crispy kale or four bite-size gougères filled with Westcombe Cheddar custard and topped with wild garlic 'capers'. We also enjoyed a plate of grilled lamb skewers with Roscoff onions, sumac, mint and yoghurt. These dainty dishes are surprisingly filling, so make sure you leave room for dessert – perhaps a richly indulgent chocolate mousse with preserved damsons and oat biscuits or a traditional Somerset apple cake with butterscotch and clotted cream. All wines on the short list are given helpful descriptions, with a useful selection by the glass. Service is a delight, pleasingly warm and friendly. A worthy successor to Osip? Definitely, in our opinion.