Coarse

Tucked away in a small courtyard off one of Durham's busy shopping streets ('more town than gown'), Coarse is a welcome find. The low-key exterior matches the interior: subdued, Farrow & Ball greenish shades, a scattering of abstract prints, unadorned tables, banquettes and retro leatherette chairs with comfortable, supportive backs. Small but not pokey, the place was buzzing and busy on a weekday lunchtime – testament to the affordable cost and high standard of cooking. There are various, overlapping ‘tasting’ menus (no carte): six courses at £40pp (plus two ‘snacks’) shows what can be achieved with intelligent planning. The day's offer is tersely described but the well-drilled staff soon spell out the tropes and micro-details that comprise the contemporary 'modern British' genre. The format is small plates. The aspiration is high. The mood light-hearted and relaxed. A customer favourite is 'leek, potato, bread and butter', a deconstructed, foamy-topped version of a familiar combo. The drawback of small plates, however, became evident in a dish advertised as 'plaice, Exmoor caviar, fish finger' – the latter transmogrified into tempura alongside the lightly braised, delicate fish. Even so, this was star quality, especially when sprinkled with salty pops of caviar, chives and capers in a creamy sauce. Alas, consumed all too quickly. Regional pride included some cracking crackling to pep up a hunk of smoked pork belly, which was given a modern edge with scallops and chilli caramel, while roast venison fillet was twinned with ‘pulled’ haunch, beetroot and berries. Everyone likes some ‘fun’ with their food, so Coarse's first anniversary 'birthday cake, jelly and ice cream' featured some 'popping' sprinkles. The wine list has much of interest, and the intelligent, optional pairing weighs in at an admirable £33pp. There is evident skill and experience in chef/co-owner Ruari Mackay’s kitchen, and although not everything we sampled was faultless, in terms of value for money it cannot be criticised. And neither can the cheerful Durham welcome.