Manifest

2 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence

Located in the Baltic Triangle regeneration district, amid towering redbrick former warehouses, Manifest is a sure indicator of where Liverpool's contemporary dining scene is right now. ‘This place is incredible,’ writes a reporter, ‘with a great atmosphere and well set-out’ – that last detail referring to the centrally sited kitchen, which makes just about everywhere in the compact space feel like a chef's table. The focus of Paul Durand's repertoire is on foraging, fermenting and preserving in the modern manner, with lots of bold, attention-grabbing flavours, the initial statement of which is a bowl of the now-legendary warm vinegar crisps. Assertive technique and immaculate presentation distinguish dishes ranging from a starter of torched sea trout with squash velouté, sea beet and nasturtium to a plate of celeriac given the char siu treatment, accompanied by burnt apple and hazelnuts. For main course, there could be Creedy Carver duck with beetroot, plum and pancakes (another distantly allusive Chinese reference), while fruity sea buckthorn makes a strategic appearance with cod loin, carrot and a sauce incorporating smoked mussels. A successful umami-drenched veggie option to ward off the winter chills might be January King cabbage with yeast extract, potato salad and garlic. Finish with a cheese plate that might partner Old Roan Wensleydale with bara brith and marmalade, or plump for rhubarb dressed in spent Champagne with a sablé biscuit. The ‘chef's choice’ menu with a three-glass wine flight will come in handy if Liverpool is in the mood to celebrate.