The story
Loch Bay Portree delivers refined seafood dining from a compact kitchen led by Michael Smith. He has directed the space since opening with his brother Laurence in 2016. The menu presents contemporary Scottish cooking filtered through classical French methods. Diners receive a warm baton alongside smoked Crowdie cheese to begin the service.
The tasting journey highlights local seafood harvests without unnecessary embellishment. Twice-dived Sconser scallops arrive paired with chanterelles and an Orbost sauce vierge. A substantial pot-au-feu features butter-grilled langoustines resting atop prawns and braised vegetables. Crunchy potato curls settle at the bottom of the vessel.
Whitewashed cottages frame the terrace setting along the water’s edge. Guests sit at no more than half a dozen tables in a relaxed interior. The informal layout contrasts gently with the structured plating style. Accommodating staff guide guests through the multi-course progression, and the careful execution recently earned a Very Good rating in The Good Food Guide.
Seasonal fruit tarts typically close the evening when strawberries and brambles peak. Yoghurt ice cream balances the natural sweetness of the berries. A Kir Royale jelly often accompanies the plate for added texture. Sommeliers match these desserts against crisp whites and light reds to reinforce the kitchen’s commitment to pairing seafood with precise acidity.
Recognition
Details
History
‘Seafood straight from the loch… creel caught… shell recycling… local organic produce’ – some notes from an effusive report on this stunningly located restaurant at the northerly reaches of the Isle of Skye. Located in a terrace of whitewashed cottages on the shores of the eponymous loch, it has been home to Michael and Laurence Smith since 2016 (readers may remember Michael from his time at the acclaimed Three Chimneys, Colbost). In contrast to his previous posting, petit Loch Bay has no more than half a dozen tables in a charming, informal dining room that's somewhat at odds with the chef's refined cooking. Delivered across a multi-course ‘Skye Fruits de Mer’ tasting menu that is described as ‘contemporary Scottish with a French twist’, the Gallic influence shows in a warm, freshly baked French baton served with smoked Crowdie cheese, followed by a terrific, crunchy oatmeal-coated oyster ‘mignonette’. After that, plump 'twice-dived’ Sconser scallops – fished from deep, more nutritious waters for a fuller, fatter bivalve (a system unique to Skye) – might be seasonally teamed with chanterelles and Orbost sauce vierge. A substantial pot-au-feu arrives with butter-grilled langoustines in a pot bursting with prawns, braised vegetables and, tucked in the bottom, crunchy little potato curls. Other seafood courses might bring a gratin of cod, clams and mussels or Bay lobster and monkfish with shrimp sauce and green apple. Depending on the season, you might finish with a warm tart of Scottish strawberries, raspberries and brambles with yoghurt ice cream and Kir Royale jelly. It’s a glorious tour de force, aided by accommodating service and bolstered by wines from an impressive Francophile list.
3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence
Location
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