The story
Haenyeo takes its name from the legendary female free-divers of Jeju Island, South Korea – women who hold their breath for minutes while diving to harvest seafood. That same iron spirit and devotion to craft runs through this Park Slope restaurant, chef and restaurateur Jenny Kwak’s homage to those matriarchs. Kwak, a pioneer in demystifying Korean cuisine in New York, previously led Dok Suni’s and DoHwa. At Haenyeo, she brings her experience to a serene, charming space of white hues, glass frames and brick walls.
The kitchen focuses on “everyday Korean dishes that are deliciously authentic with a touch of urban influence.” The menu changes but staples like the dukboki fundido – saucy, spicy rice cakes with Oaxaca cheese and chorizo – have earned a cult following. Freshly shucked oysters arrive with blood orange mignonette, while grilled oysters come in seaweed butter with toasted baguette. Entrées range from hwe dup bop (tuna sashimi rice bowl) to kalbi (grilled beef short ribs with ssam). The wine list leans natural, and cocktails like the Seoul Train (rye, absinthe, ume plum wine) add to the experience.
Haenyeo holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand, awarded for good quality, good value cooking. The Michelin guide calls it “the kind of spot that serves food so memorable you’ll find yourself craving the same meal well after your visit.” Kwak was also a James Beard Award semifinalist for Best Chef: New York State, and the New York Times named Haenyeo one of the top ten new restaurants of 2019. The restaurant’s rice cake fundido, in particular, has been praised by Eater and Grub Street as “intensely crave-able.” It’s a place where Korean home cooking meets Brooklyn’s creative energy, without ever losing sight of the traditions that inspired it.
Recognition
Ambience
Location