Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel

The story

Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld | Australian Fine Dining

The Kitchen Garden and Chef’s Philosophy

At Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld, Executive Chef Robin Wickens builds an Australian tasting menu around what arrives fresh that morning. His kitchen operates directly beside a working organic garden, so ingredients like hispi cabbage, Jerusalem artichokes, and winter quince travel mere metres from soil to plate. Livestock for beef and lamb comes from grazing teams in adjacent pastures, grounding the seasonal degustation in local agriculture. This hands-on cycle shapes every course, turning daily harvests into precise, unpretentious plates.

Seasonal Tasting Courses

The dinner progression shifts with the weather, moving through vegetable-forward starters and rich meat mains that define contemporary Australian cuisine. Guests typically spend over three hours navigating these carefully paced courses, which adapt when pescatarian or vegan preferences are noted in advance. A dedicated chefs table seats two to four diners inside the active kitchen, offering a clear view of the plating process. Every dish reflects a straightforward respect for ingredient quality rather than theatrical presentation.

The Dining Room and Surroundings

Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the southern Grampians National Park, bringing daylight into the dining room before sunset. Polished sandstone floors and dark timber joinery create a quiet backdrop for the evening service. Larger parties gather in a separate private dining room that accommodates fourteen guests, while weekend lunch sittings offer a lighter introduction to the hotel’s calendar. The architecture deliberately keeps the landscape visible, reinforcing the connection between the food and the region.

Wine Selection and Pairings

The property holds a Wine Spectator Grand Award, recognizing a cellar that spans roughly four thousand bottles across Bordeaux, Burgundy, and regional Australian producers. Sommeliers craft tailored matches for the degustation, though a non-alcoholic alternative draws its own inspiration from garden botanicals and seasonal fruit. Diners may also explore the adjoining casual restaurant for a la carte selections and relaxed evening drinks. The beverage programme complements the cooking without overshadowing the primary focus on freshly harvested produce.