The story
Chef Michael Schwarzenbacher describes the kitchen as a place of power where inspiration blooms through honest collaboration with local partners. He approaches his work with joyful openness rather than excess, seeking the essence of valuable ingredients. This family-run establishment anchors its Austrian kitchen in the rhythms of the seasons and the bounty of the region.
Warm-marinated Lake Constance trout defines the seafood offerings, served alongside a bisque crafted from crayfish. Baked calf's head appears in a cassoulet-style dish enriched by asparagus, while venison shin arrives with semolina dumplings. The meal concludes with fried venison liver paired with warm quince segments and crisp sage leaf tempura.
Critics at Gault&Millau recognize this dedication with a score of 16.5, noting that food and drink here are matters of the heart. They highlight the team's high form during service, praising elements like the soul food menu and attention to detail. This evaluation confirms the balance between international refinement and Austrian cooking.
The dining experience remains centered on the guest, supported by a structure where young talents can develop within the family environment. Servers like Maitre Markus Filz ensure the room reflects the values of connection and gratitude listed on the website. This focus on hospitality transforms a meal into a shared moment of joy among friends and neighbors.
Recognition
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Food and drink are a matter of the heart at this address – as is the “Soulfood Menu”. After brilliantly prepared Irish oysters for welcome, a mixed salad follows with wonderfully soft-baked Lake Constance fish dumplings and smoked paprika aioli; served alongside it is warm-marinated Lake Constance trout with Lake Constance crayfish and crayfish bisque. Also superb are the game hen consommé with morel egg custard, the baked calf’s head with asparagus-calf’s-head cassoulet, and the venison shank with small semolina dumplings. As a pleasant surprise in between, a freshwater bouillabaisse is served. The highlight is then the pan-fried venison liver with warm quince segments and sage leaf tempura. Before the exquisite dessert, a piece of Camembert de Normandie AOP is essential. The Mangold team is operating at peak form. Address: Pfänderstraße 3, 6911 Lochau, Austria. Contact: 05574 42 43 1, office@restaurant-mangold.at, https://www.restaurant-mangold.at/. Opening hours: Thu–Sun 12–14 and 18–22; variable, see homepage. Team: Michael Schwarzenbacher (Chef), Peter Knaus (Sous Chef), Markus Filz (Maître d’), Martin Böse (Pastry Chef).
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